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Hey Drew, If I purchase a set of these: 52 33 366 will the stock 10mm bolts self tap or do I need, new, self tapping bolts or do I need to tap the bolt holes? I'm not set up with a tap to do this sort of thing, shade tree mechanic here.
The official Saab bulletin says M8 "Taptite or Duo-Taptite self-tapping screws of strength grade up to 10.9" are required, see https://www.uroparts.com/uro/pictures/picture/saab-bulletin-std-3715.pdf

Unofficially and speaking only as a fellow DIY'er, you'd think it would be okay to just tap for M8 x 1.0 (the blank holes have an ID of about 7.1mm) and use 10.9 rated hardware, instead of using the required "Taptite" or "Duo-Taptite" self-tapping screws that could be hard to find and might not cut threads as nicely as a legitimate tap. It is silly that we have to follow the OEM design on these mounts...why on earth did Saab engineers choose blank weld nuts.
 

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I call b.s. on the part number/fitment;ol; Hell if Drew sends me one of each I will personal measure them top to bottom and post the results here.
Thanks for the offer :cheesy:, but we'll see if the engineers can work it in. We have a FaroArm and dimensional scanning equipment in the lab that should make it a pretty easy task.
 

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The official Saab bulletin says M8 "Taptite or Duo-Taptite self-tapping screws of strength grade up to 10.9" are required, see https://www.uroparts.com/uro/pictures/picture/saab-bulletin-std-3715.pdf

Unofficially and speaking only as a fellow DIY'er, you'd think it would be okay to just tap for M8 x 1.0 (the blank holes have an ID of about 7.1mm) and use 10.9 rated hardware, instead of using the required "Taptite" or "Duo-Taptite" self-tapping screws that could be hard to find and might not cut threads as nicely as a legitimate tap. It is silly that we have to follow the OEM design on these mounts...why on earth did Saab engineers choose blank weld nuts.
100% agree. I tapped mine. But I reused the old one on one side I was not happy with the Uro replacement parts process. I also wonder why a 10,9 bolt is specified when the torque value for an 8 mm bolt is specified as really quite low. Weird to me. However these Uro parts are still lightyears ahead of any ProParts stuff.
 

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You absolutely have to tap the silver version which is the ones Drew is recommending.

Personally I won't ever buy the silver versions again. The black version has worked perfect on our sedan (sold now) and now my 06 wagon. I will take my chances with them. The silver version is crudely made compared the black version. And it fits the exact the same way. The only difference between the two are the look and the untapped nuts.

I call b.s. on the part number/fitment;ol;

Hell if Drew sends me one of each I will personal measure them top to bottom and post the results here.
I ended ordering the black version, pre-tapped with screws and bearing included. Don't want to have to purchase a tap and die for a one time project.

I did order the French made bearings though, I want the best possible plastic bearing that can get. I don't want to have to do this job anytime soon. Now to figure out an inexpensive or free warm place to do the work.
 

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I have a 2002 9-5 aero wagon. It makes a ticking noise everytime I turn the steering wheel almost all the way to the left or right. I suspect the strut mount is starting to fail as everything else is new.

I bought the uro strut mount black version you have been talking about. After reading this thread, I am not sure if I should proceed on getting this black version installed.

At the same time I have no clue on how to tap and die the mount. I guess I will take the risk by installing it this week. I will let you know how it goes
 

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At the same time I have no clue on how to tap and die the mount. I guess I will take the risk by installing it this week. I will let you know how it goes
A basic tap & die set isn't very expensive and is super handy to have on hand. A Kobalt (Lowes), Husky (Home Depot) or Craftsman set is perfectly adequate, no need for $$$ professional Mac Tools or Snap-On. Once you have a set, you'll use it all the time to clean up rusty threaded holes or nuts, repair bolts or nuts that want to initially cross-thread because the lead thread is damaged, etc. And it's a similar process to even repair utterly destroyed threads with a Helicoil.

Five minutes from now you'll be ready to repair virtually any thread on your car. (Spark plug holes in an assembled engine take a bit more care and experience, but still aren't a big deal.)

 

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I also wonder why a 10,9 bolt is specified when the torque value for an 8 mm bolt is specified as really quite low. Weird to me. However these Uro parts are still lightyears ahead of any ProParts stuff.
Would have to ask engineering, but perhaps Saab specifies 10.9 for the shear strength in this application, not the tensile load?
 

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Just installed one of my Sachs (Sport Suspension) struts with this Uro mount today: https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/44597/Strut-Mount-Kit-Front-5061007A/

I have to say, the Uro mount look very similar the mount that came off of the car, but something is off.

I get a weird sound and the setup makes noise when going over bumps in the road, something about the setup just doesn't feel and sound solid or correct.

Not sure what I did wrong, if anything. I didn't use the bearing that came with the strut mount, I bought the more expensive Saab stock bearing, put a new zinc on, made sure to seat the spring properly and torqued everything down to the proper torque settings. Everything seemed to go together fine.

I should note that I was expecting to reuse my bumpstop, but it was wasted, pieces of it literally fell off when the strut came out. I didn't have the stock part, so I used a monroe bump stop instead, not sure how much if any difference that would make, it's a hunk of rubber. I will say that the Monroe bumpstop is made of a harder, denser rubber than the stock Saab version, maybe that's my issue?

Have any of you experienced this, not sure if it's the mount or the bumpstop or what?
 

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Just installed one of my Sachs (Sport Suspension) struts with this Uro mount today: https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/44597/Strut-Mount-Kit-Front-5061007A/

I have to say, the Uro mount look very similar the mount that came off of the car, but something is off.

I get a weird sound and the setup makes noise when going over bumps in the road, something about the setup just doesn't feel and sound solid or correct.

Not sure what I did wrong, if anything. I didn't use the bearing that came with the strut mount, I bought the more expensive Saab stock bearing, put a new zinc on, made sure to seat the spring properly and torqued everything down to the proper torque settings. Everything seemed to go together fine.

I should note that I was expecting to reuse my bumpstop, but it was wasted, pieces of it literally fell off when the strut came out. I didn't have the stock part, so I used a monroe bump stop instead, not sure how much if any difference that would make, it's a hunk of rubber. I will say that the Monroe bumpstop is made of a harder, denser rubber than the stock Saab version, maybe that's my issue?

Have any of you experienced this, not sure if it's the mount or the bumpstop or what?
harder bump stop is fine. I suspect you have the spring clocked wrong on the top plate ? possible.
 

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harder bump stop is fine. I suspect you have the spring clocked wrong on the top plate ? possible.
Thanks QRL, in all honesty, I made sure the bottom of the spring was seated properly against the "stop", but I didn't pay much attention to what was going on with the top of the spring. If the bottom end of the spring is butted up against that "stop" on the bottom plate, do you just loosen things up and give the spring one rotation clockwise?
 

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Thanks QRL, in all honesty, I made sure the bottom of the spring was seated properly against the "stop", but I didn't pay much attention to what was going on with the top of the spring. If the bottom end of the spring is butted up against that "stop" on the bottom plate, so you just loosen things up and give the spring one rotation clockwise?
the bottom of the spring is easy. The pita is remove the assembly, and check the orientation of the top spring hat. I cant remember the orientation, let me check some saab pictures ( I do delta daily, gen6 camaro also, but the only Saab I do is mine)

I just checked and its hardly conclusive, but I would check the way the top spring hat is clocked onto the spring and make sure the saab bearing is ok I reused my saab bearings the aftermarket stuff from eEuro is pure proparts crap. I get angry all over again as I installed new proparts tie rod ends at the same time, as I renewed a lot of things, but the old oem original tie rod ends were still good. I kept them, which as a good thing, as 5000 km later Ihad to put them back on as the prop parts ends had totally completely failed horribly...


anyway. PITA check your work.
 

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the bottom of the spring is easy. The pita is remove the assembly, and check the orientation of the top spring hat. I cant remember the orientation, let me check some saab pictures ( I do delta daily, gen6 camaro also, but the only Saab I do is mine)

I just checked and its hardly conclusive, but I would check the way the top spring hat is clocked onto the spring and make sure the saab bearing is ok I reused my saab bearings the aftermarket stuff from eEuro is pure proparts crap. I get angry all over again as I installed new proparts tie rod ends at the same time, as I renewed a lot of things, but the old oem original tie rod ends were still good. I kept them, which as a good thing, as 5000 km later Ihad to put them back on as the prop parts ends had totally completely failed horribly...


anyway. PITA check your work.

I think there's only one way the top spring hat can be mounted, I learned the hard way, it's an oblong shape and can only be oriented on way or it won't bolt up.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Like qw said I think you don't have the spring all the way against the stop. I did this once and had it installed perfectly, then it moved during assembly.

Easy way to reset it is jack the wheel up off the ground by the subframe, clamp a set of needle nose vise grips onto the coil spring, then tap against the vise grips with a hammer towards the front of the car. It will stop moving once the spring is against the stop.
 

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Like qw said I think you don't have the spring all the way against the stop. I did this once and had it installed perfectly, then it moved during assembly.

Easy way to reset it is jack the wheel up off the ground by the subframe, clamp a set of needle nose vise grips onto the coil spring, then tap against the vise grips with a hammer towards the front of the car. It will stop moving once the spring is against the stop.
Thanks for the tip Terry, I will give that a shot. Sounds like my spring end is probably not against the stop.
 

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This is why I have my Saab mechanic do this type of stuff, nothing worse then finding something like this out when you have the car half apart!
 

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This is why I have my Saab mechanic do this type of stuff, nothing worse then finding something like this out when you have the car half apart!
I'm not a professional mechanic, just a shade tree mechanic. There is one thing I'm certain of though, if I never try, I will never learn anything. I'm not afraid of trying, sometimes I'm surprised at how easy the solution is, other times my Saab throws me a curve and I get to learn a few things. I'm learning that a strut rebuild is not as easy as it looks, but it's not impossible with the right tools and some know how.

It's better to try and perhaps fail, then ask for some help and correct the issue and share your results then to never try and be defeated from the start. I will post my success and failures with this project when I complete it.
 

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All true photousa, we learn each time. And always an excuse to buy a new tool! But I know my limits, which are more than yours I believe. FYI just had mine done about $150 each side for labor
 
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