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Discussion Starter #1
Just wanted to let you all know I did a suspension rebuild this summer and I used the Uro mounts ( https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/356450/Strut-Mount-Front-5233366A/ ). Every mounting nut on both mounts had the wrong thread pitch to them. So I had to retap them:cry:.

I ran them for 2 months and they started knocking. I contacted Eeuro and they were good about warrantying them. This time I bought the Uro Strut Mount kit (https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/44597/Strut-Mount-Kit-Front-5061007A/ ) . The mounts in the kit are nicer made, they are also painted black and not as ****ty looking like the beadblasted silver ones.

I hate doing **** 2 times, so I am giving you all a heads up. These last few years cheap *** parts have cost me a lot of time. ;oops:
 

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Hi toxicavenger, tapping the holes in the mount is actually a required part of installation per Saab bulletin STD3715 for the 2002-2009 mounts, which requires Taptite or Duo-Taptite 10.9 self-tapping screws. If you were installing OEM/Corteco, Lemforder, Meyle, URO or SACHS mounts, the holes have to be tapped as part of installation. Couldn't tell you why SAAB designed the mounts and installation procedure this way. Other aftermarket mounts may be pre-tapped (such as Monroe/Moog), it just depends on whether the kit manufacturer decided to deviate from the factory installation procedure or not.

Hope that helps! The knocking you experienced is definitely no good though, we'll have engineering review this mount ASAP. If anyone ever has a problem with any URO part, please contact us at 800-290-5555 or email "sales at uro parts dot com" (remove spaces) so that we can take care of you.
 

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I have a set of Corteco strut mounts that are factory mounts with the Saab name and numbers painted over, and they come with those same welded-on unthreaded nuts. I'm probably going to thread them with a tap before installing them. I installed a set of Moog mounts several years ago that also had those same nuts, but one of the nuts broke off while the screw was being threaded in. The manufacturer has to weld them on properly if they're going to work like they're supposed to!
 

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Tapping new mounts is a given. The better mounts have a welded "nut" in place that is more robust. Self tapping 10.9 x 8 mmx (1.0 (?) fine thread screws is not a bad idea as Uro suggested. Its disconcerting for DIY to find this out and no screws supplied. NO instructions either...But good that Uro stepped up to talk about it on here.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi toxicavenger, tapping the holes in the mount is actually a required part of installation per Saab bulletin STD3715 (uroparts.com/uro/pictures/picture/saab-bulletin-std-3715.pdf), which requires Taptite or Duo-Taptite 10.9 self-tapping screws. Regardless if you were installing OEM, Lemforder, Meyle, URO or SACHS mounts, the holes have to be tapped as part of installation. Couldn't tell you why SAAB designed the mounts and installation procedure this way. Aftermarket mount kits that include screws may or may not be pre-tapped, it just depends on whether the kit manufacturer decided to deviate from the factory installation procedure or not.

Hope that helps! The knocking you experienced is definitely no good though, we'll have engineering review this mount ASAP. If anyone ever has a problem with any URO part, please contact us at 800-290-5555 or email "sales at uro parts dot com" (remove spaces) so that we can take care of you.
Thanks for the reply. I have replaced the mounts on 4 of my Saab 9-5's in the last 10 years. This is the first time I have ever heard of tapping the threads on a mount. Not to mention there was no documentation stating this in the box. The welded on nuts already had threads, they just weren't the correct ones to match my factory mount bolts.

The mounts I have used in the past were Monroe/Moog and they were all pre-tapped.

Did you see my reply that the Uro "kit"? It actually came pre-tapped and with the correct bolts. If so then why did Uro make one kit a different design than the other? https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/44597/Strut-Mount-Kit-Front-5061007A/ :cheesy:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Tapping new mounts is a given. The better mounts have a welded "nut" in place that is more robust. Self tapping 10.9 x 8 mmx (1.0 (?) fine thread screws is not a bad idea as Uro suggested. Its disconcerting for DIY to find this out and no screws supplied. NO instructions either...But good that Uro stepped up to talk about it on here.
I have never seen it mentioned here or on any documentation included with a mount saying they need to be tapped. The previous mounts I have installed were all threaded and fit the stock bolts from my oem mounts. So no reason to tap them.;ol;
 

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Saab bulletin STD3715 instructs mechanics to tap the weld nuts, and can be found here: https://www.uroparts.com/uro/pictures/picture/saab-bulletin-std-3715.pdf

No idea why SAAB designed the mounts and installation procedure to require tapping, but we typically reproduce items to be the same as provided by the OEM for liability reasons. Aftermarket mount kits that include screws may or may not be pre-tapped, it just depends on whether the kit manufacturer decided to deviate from the factory installation procedure or not.
 

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Did you see my reply that the Uro "kit"? It actually came pre-tapped and with the correct bolts. If so then why did Uro make one kit a different design than the other? :cheesy:
Since the kit for 1999-2001 cars includes screws, we know exactly which female thread to use in the weld nuts for a perfect fit. For the bare mount for 2002-2009 cars, we don't know what screw the installer is going to use, so we can't pre-tap it.

It really is an unusual case, can't think of any other similar parts where the carmaker leaves the last step of manufacturing up to the technician doing the installation. Very odd.
 

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So you are saying on the kit you guys deviated from the factory installation procedures, right?
exactly. Helpful guy from Uro but URO need to get their act together and provide on line instructions at least. Not expensive. Cloyes do Utube vids on timing chains for many cars for example.
 

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Just so happens that I need to replace my strut mounts, bearings and zincs so perfect timing with this post. I had read about having to tap the strut mounts and didn't really want to do it so I would buy the same product you did just to avoid that procedure, so thanks Terry you saved me some work !!
 

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exactly. Helpful guy from Uro but URO need to get their act together and provide on line instructions at least. Not expensive. Cloyes do Utube vids on timing chains for many cars for example.
It would be nice if replacement parts included installation instructions, but it's highly unlikely that Corteco, Lemforder, Meyle, and SACHS provide installation instructions with their untapped replacement mounts either. The industry standard is to assume the installer has either the proper vehicle repair manual, or experience doing the repair.

For parts that we design from scratch, such as shifter assembly repair kits for Mercedes and Jaguar, we do provide instructions because these repair procedures are not already described in the vehicle repair manual.
 

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Just wanted to let you all know I did a suspension rebuild this summer and I used the Uro mounts ( https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/356450/Strut-Mount-Front-5233366A/ ). Every mounting nut on both mounts had the wrong thread pitch to them. So I had to retap them:cry:.
Hi toxicavenger, we've checked into the tapping issue with those silver-color mounts (for 2002-2009 cars) and have an update for you:
- We reviewed a production sample from three years ago and a unit from current stock, and neither has pre-tapped weld nuts.
- We reviewed the engineering data and mount testing photos, and everything shows untapped weld nuts.

So it's a mystery how the two silver mounts you purchased had incorrectly-tapped nuts. The only possible explanation is that a DIY'er purchased that pair of mounts, tapped them, then realized he/she used the wrong thread tap (when they couldn't thread in their OE screws), and returned them to the retailer for a refund. The retailer must not have noticed the modification by the prior customer, and resold them to you.

There's just no other explanation... We sure wish the retailer would have noticed the customer's modification and returned the mounts to us instead of reselling them, we would have been happy to provide a credit and dispose of them.
 

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I am calling you out on “ industry standard” and “workshop Techs have the knowledge “ etc This is 2019 / no excuses not to provide pertinent service information for these mounts. I have taps etc. These days many workshops do not. But that’s not the point. Just as moog have supplied incorrectly assembled strut mounts with no information and cloyes provide u tube videos on correct timing chain assembly it’s time to take the high road and follow Cloyes example.
 

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Further GM as an example provide specific and general service information in addition to simple “ how to” on vehicle component assembly. Put another way Uro should consider that just as frequenting a forum as a paid advertiser is valuable. there is goodwill and value to be gained by providing pertinent and helpful information on their products. And its not expensive / a simple email link to an existing web site for information, or even U tube as Cloyes have done. This takes Uro away from being cobsidered a supplier of a terrible part with horrible in service issues and instead classes them as helpful, valuable and worthy of consideration next time parts as needed.
 

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One more strut question, please. I was also planning on rebuilding my struts, I have the dreaded clunk, so I either have a broken strut bearing or a bad strut mount, not sure which..

I was planning on replacing the strut bearing, strut mount, anti-corrosion plates.

Do you guys also replace the rubber seals, (part #12772082) , bump stop or bellows?
 

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I don't think there's any reason to replace the bump stop or bellows unless they're in poor condition--or inexpensive enough that you don't mind paying to do a complete refresh. The seal, I can't comment on; I'm not sure how much it's stressed and what it actually does (keep crud out of the strut bearings?).


Well, okay, if I could get the parts (OEM or quality aftermarket, not ProParts!) inexpensively, I might as well replace. If they're expensive, I'd only replace as needed.
 

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I don't think there's any reason to replace the bump stop or bellows unless they're in poor condition--or inexpensive enough that you don't mind paying to do a complete refresh. The seal, I can't comment on; I'm not sure how much it's stressed and what it actually does (keep crud out of the strut bearings?).


Well, okay, if I could get the parts (OEM or quality aftermarket, not ProParts!) inexpensively, I might as well replace. If they're expensive, I'd only replace as needed.
Good advice ! The problem is, you never know what this stuff is going to look like after 162K miles.
 
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