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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hiya, first time poster, long time lurker...

I am the (proud? no, that's not right... confused? better) new owner of a 1990 9000T automatic... The car itself is in pretty good condition considering I only dropped $2K on it, it's 15 years old, and it has 200,000K on it. No red flags yet.

All that aside, the whole reason I picked this bugger up is so I can get a little dirty and do some more significant work on a euro car. (I've only had seemingly indestructible Jap rides to this point).

What I'm looking for is confirmation from someone who's seen the differences between a North American 9000T and what the UK Haynes manual thinks a 9000T should look like. Are they significant? I know I'm gonna see the steering column on the wrong side and such, but are there things like the engine compartment is reversed or anything I should know about? Am I wasting my time trying to read a manual meant for something completely different than what I have?

Gracias!
 

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Nope, just the steering wheel and maybe a few slight variations in the lights.

Top tip, any time you view a picture or diagram showing the steering wheel, just hold a mirror to it and look in the reflection and you'll feel right at home. :)

There are minor differences like the way the pedals work the cylinders, the RHD requires a bar that runs the width of the car, the LHD have an alternate cylinder arrangement but nothing that should really tax you given the Saab forums.

David.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Schweet!

Ah, that is truly wonderful! And here I thought I was gonna have to drop the 9000 and by a Bimmer or something... :cheesy:

Thanks for the info; much obliged.
 

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Welcome to SC, Elcid. Good choice on the 9KT. I'd watch the auto tranny fluid condition and try to detect any signs of metal debris in the fluid. And smell for a "burnt" smell. These are signs of a tranny close to going south. If you don't know the history of the car (maintenance) nor the previous owner (driving style), then take care of the tranny as much as you can. Those ZF units are far from bulletproof and require a good dosage of TLC. As baseline, go have the ATF flushed and changed by a reputable tranny shop (or a Saab indie shop or Italian auto shop that knows ZFs). Then repeat every year. Do a search in this forum and see what others say about clean, sharp up/down shifts. Never shift in and out of D to N at redlights and stop signs, but leave in D. Shift into/out of gears gently and give it a 1-2 secs between shifts. You don't want to have to spend C$2-3K (like I did) rebuilding the autobox when you've spent only $2K on the car.

Hey not trying to sound alarmist or a worrywart, I just want to see you get the most enjoyment out of your car in a cheap and painless way :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
All suggestions are appreciated, to be sure. I have been fortunate in the fact that I haven't seen/smelled anything strange with the ATF yet, but the flush is first on my list of things to do, along with brake fluid/rotors/pads.

The one thing I'm keeping my eye on is a somewhat harsh upshift from 2-3 when I'm coasting (i.e. not depressing the accellerator at all). Apres flush I'll see where I'm at.

Say, you wouldn't happen to have a shop you'd recommend, would you? I'm in Burnaby, and am not looking forward to getting bent over by Morrey every time I have to get something small looked at... :evil:
 

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Don't worry about Morrey, apparently they closed at the end of June (or at least no longer a Saab dealer).

You could go to Lansdowne if you feel you must throw away tons of money :cheesy: But otherwise for just tranny work I recommend Stans' Transmission on Kingsway between Fraser & Knight. They've been around forever and they KNOW trannies. They rebuilt my slushbox 100% with a 3-yr/60,000 km no-questions-asked warranty. Neither of the indie shops (Swedish Auto on Clark Dr, Bjarne's Mechanical Services in Richmond) really deal with ATs, however Bjarne's is more inclined to touch an AT.

Email me offline to chat more at [email protected] and/or goto my website SCWC

Ken

elcid said:
All suggestions are appreciated, to be sure. I have been fortunate in the fact that I haven't seen/smelled anything strange with the ATF yet, but the flush is first on my list of things to do, along with brake fluid/rotors/pads.

The one thing I'm keeping my eye on is a somewhat harsh upshift from 2-3 when I'm coasting (i.e. not depressing the accellerator at all). Apres flush I'll see where I'm at.

Say, you wouldn't happen to have a shop you'd recommend, would you? I'm in Burnaby, and am not looking forward to getting bent over by Morrey every time I have to get something small looked at... :evil:
 
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