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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so folks,

it`s beeing finally done: TYPE 8 PRIMARIES are made from scratch. Custom made , copied from original SAAB primaries, right grade of steel, hardened afterwards to get the right HRC grade. I`ll be putting them onto my c900 to test ... and after then might consider offering them to others. So, stay tuned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
... yeahhhhh ... will tell more when installed. I wonder if people would be interested ...
 

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Great work Gints!;ol; You can always send me one to for testing!:cheesy:;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I might be interested of getting few people to test them out ... most probably by selling them with an agreement that primaries are put on the car, tested for some time and then results reported. I mean, I recon we should not be normally hearing anything else that primaries are still there and engine torque is still transferred to the g-box. But, those who`ll be testing, their money will be put aside - should there be anything wrong they`ll be reimboursed and sprockets taken back ...
 

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... I wonder if people would be interested ...
Really? I already have type 8 primaries installed and I am interested! As long as they don't cost an arm, a leg, and your first born son ;). I am sure there will be people interested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Daniel,

Interested in testing a set?
Though I`d need to ask to limit your hp`s and Nm`s to somewhat reasonable numbers :)

arm and leg ... ? - they should be somewhere around the market value of type 8 (of what they go) or maybe something less but here the thing is that these type 8, if everything ticks, will be available right away without hunting them around the globe :)
 

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chain is same size? just the sprocket sizes varies at both ends so chain stays same length whatever type I believe
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
same chains. options are either to use your old ones (used) or to get a set of new chains (3) from SAAB or Iwis ... the same goes for the bearing.
 

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same chains. options are either to use your old ones (used) or to get a set of new chains (3) from SAAB or Iwis ... the same goes for the bearing.
I'd definitely recommend getting both new chains and new bearings. The chains are fairly inexpensive from the usual suspects.

I've spun a top-bearing before, when I put in type-8s from an unknown source and did not replace. It trashes the gearbox case (grinds away aluminum on the small nipple it rests on, mis-aligns the clutch shaft, and generally causes havoc), so you want to avoid this. A new bearing is cheap insurance, and you can get it from your local auto parts store for less than $30, as opposed to the $65 from eEuroparts. Its equivalent part number is the SKF BR-9. I trust SKF bearings, and I've been running one nearly a year now with no issues. Found on Jeep rear axles, IIRC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I`ll try to make new chains and a bearing available so one could chose either just the primaries or a whole new set of sprockets, chains and bearing.
 

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what price range would we be looking at for sprockets only?
 

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Subscribed!

I will take a set that is provided type 8's in the 4-speed still has a useable 1st gear....it might be very tall, but at least no more redlining at 85mph ;ol;.
 

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I'd definitely recommend getting both new chains and new bearings. The chains are fairly inexpensive from the usual suspects.

I've spun a top-bearing before, when I put in type-8s from an unknown source and did not replace. It trashes the gearbox case (grinds away aluminum on the small nipple it rests on, mis-aligns the clutch shaft, and generally causes havoc), so you want to avoid this. A new bearing is cheap insurance, and you can get it from your local auto parts store for less than $30, as opposed to the $65 from eEuroparts. Its equivalent part number is the SKF BR-9. I trust SKF bearings, and I've been running one nearly a year now with no issues. Found on Jeep rear axles, IIRC.
Actually went one better- BR-9 is a standard rear axle bearing on 20-30 models of various auto manufacturers and Link-Belt. Cruised E-bay and picked up bearing from several manufacturers (SKF, Timken, others in original parts boxes for various specific 70's cars). Bushing that comes with it is for in service installation of bearing on the axle. Used the lot sales option since I was looking for several transmission rebuilds this winter, and like to have parts in hand even if I don't need them at the moment. Especially if they may take a while to come in.
 

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Did you CNC machine them or use manual machines? Did you give them a rockwell hardness test? What type of tolerances were you working with +/- what? What type of hardening did you use, case hardening or other? And final question is how many parts did you throw away before you got it right lol??? fun fact- WD-40 stands for Water Displacement and the 40 stood for the 40th formula before they got it right. So just curious on how many tries it took till it worked. BTW deffinetly interested.
 
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