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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2004 9-3 with the 2.0t. 94K miles. I recently had the timing chain, tentioners, guides and water pump chain replaced. Both chains are tight with very little slack. The car runs fantastic except for one thing,

When I accelate and the turbo nears the red line, I get a pinging noise. This happens for a while and then goes away once the car has been driven for a while. Once driven, especially on a long trip, I can hit maxium boost without any noise at all. Now something that is interesting is, that I can get the engine to rev to 3500 - 4000 rpm while in park and not get any noise at all.

When the noise occurs, it comes from the area where the turbo is located. I'm not 100% convinced that it is the turbo, but can't figure out what is causing the ping. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,

Taget
 

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can't answer your full question but i can answer one thing.
your turbo isnt active when you have it in park or neutral, thats why you dont hear any noise then.
but maybe bearings in the turbo? beats me.
 

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i have a 2004 9-3 with the 2.0t. 94k miles. I recently had the timing chain, tentioners, guides and water pump chain replaced. Both chains are tight with very little slack. The car runs fantastic except for one thing,

when i accelate and the turbo nears the red line, i get a pinging noise. This happens for a while and then goes away once the car has been driven for a while. Once driven, especially on a long trip, i can hit maxium boost without any noise at all. Now something that is interesting is, that i can get the engine to rev to 3500 - 4000 rpm while in park and not get any noise at all.

When the noise occurs, it comes from the area where the turbo is located. I'm not 100% convinced that it is the turbo, but can't figure out what is causing the ping. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,

taget
did you perform these repairs youself??
I know on these engines there are special camshaft alignment tools used when timing the engine/setting the cams. If timing is off there might be some noise concerns or performance problems.
These tools that im refering to bolt on the camshaft. You remove the #1 cylinder camshaft caps and install these caps. Then you can perform the timing of the engine and torque the cam gears to specs.
Hope that gives you some starting points....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you both for the responses. I did not do the repairs myself. They were done by a GM tech. The special tool was used and the engine runs great and ran great for a while after the chains were replaced.

Grett9-3, I understand there is no boost at idle, that's why I'm leaning towards the Turbo. I appreciate your comment. What's interesting is that until the turbo reaches the max, there is no noise.

Thanks,
Target
 

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Keep in mind that there is very little load on the engine when in park vs. when in gear, so this test may not be conclusive.

Was just reading a copy of Haynes about the turbos; if I remember correctly it states that the turbo doesn't have a bearing on the main shaft, but instead relies on a cushion of oil to support the rotating shaft.

Are you certain that the 'pinging' isn't pre-detonation/engine knock? Are you using super (91+) gas, or regular?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Keep in mind that there is very little load on the engine when in park vs. when in gear, so this test may not be conclusive.

Was just reading a copy of Haynes about the turbos; if I remember correctly it states that the turbo doesn't have a bearing on the main shaft, but instead relies on a cushion of oil to support the rotating shaft.

Are you certain that the 'pinging' isn't pre-detonation/engine knock? Are you using super (91+) gas, or regular?
The ping only happens when the car is moving and the turbo nears the red line. With no load I can rev to a high RPM with no noise, but is stated there is nothing coming out of the turbo. There is not ping in the engine while driving at a low turbo load; only when at high accelleration.

I use high-octane gas only, and I'm running Mobile One Synthetic Oil.

Again, thanks for the comments and suggestions.

Target.
 

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Sure it isn't a misfire from a bad coilpack?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sure it isn't a misfire from a bad coilpack?
I would think that if it was, it would run rough. It doesn't. Smooth as silk at idle or any speed. No hesitation, no power loss. Just the noise.

Thank you for your comment. Let's keep trying to diagnose. I'm working really hard to avoid the dealer (cost).

Target
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It's been a while since this thread was active. My Saab now has over 140K miles on it and I still have the same problem. If you are knowledgable about the Turbo, please read the OP. I would appreciate the help.
 

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Journal bearings are worn, the impeller blades are touching the compressor housing making that ringing sound. Get your turbo rebuilt, if your at all handy the rebuild kit is like 60-70 bucks and very easy job to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks to the last two posters. I appreciate the responses.

While I'm a handy guy, and think I could do it with instructions, I don't have a fall back plan if I get stuck or break something else.

How long do think I've got before the bearings fail? I've had this problem intermittently for over a year. Have you had experience with a repair cost from a garage?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Did you check out the bypass valve and waste gate on the turbo? Never got a code?
Still have sake issue as I originally posted. No loss of power or fuel economy and can't seem to notice any changes at all.

I did manually open and close the waste gate. When I open and let it go, I do hear the same snap that I hear when the turbo is at high rpm. Anyone got experience checking these? I don't think I want to remove the turbo myself.

On a side note, is the heat shield easy to remove? I get the bolts outs out just fine, but its attached at the back and I don't know how it attaches.

Thanks for reading.
 

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Still have sake issue as I originally posted. No loss of power or fuel economy and can't seem to notice any changes at all.

I did manually open and close the waste gate. When I open and let it go, I do hear the same snap that I hear when the turbo is at high rpm. Anyone got experience checking these? I don't think I want to remove the turbo myself.

On a side note, is the heat shield easy to remove? I get the bolts outs out just fine, but its attached at the back and I don't know how it attaches.

Thanks for reading.
Grab the back of the heat shield by where the clip is and pull up, you gotta pull fairly hard. The ringing may be the heat shield between the turbine wheel and chra, it just sits there and causes a ringing sound sometimes when the turbo spinning fast. For the bypass valve just unplug the vac line goi g to it and put a vac pump on it, if it holds vacuum its fine. Same with the WG actuator.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Grab the back of the heat shield by where the clip is and pull up, you gotta pull fairly hard. The ringing may be the heat shield between the turbine wheel and chra, it just sits there and causes a ringing sound sometimes when the turbo spinning fast. For the bypass valve just unplug the vac line goi g to it and put a vac pump on it, if it holds vacuum its fine. Same with the WG actuator.
There are three hoses going to the turbo. One to an electronic sensor that does not have a clamp, the other two have clamps on them, so I would assume they are the ones with the most pressure. One of those is on top, the other on the firewall side and goes down. What pressure should I look for? The rod from the waste gate to the actuator is fairly easy to move. Is that normal?

I think I'm fairly close to diagnosing this issue once and for all. I really appreciate everyone's help!
 

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There are three hoses going to the turbo. One to an electronic sensor that does not have a clamp, the other two have clamps on them, so I would assume they are the ones with the most pressure. One of those is on top, the other on the firewall side and goes down. What pressure should I look for? The rod from the waste gate to the actuator is fairly easy to move. Is that normal?

I think I'm fairly close to diagnosing this issue once and for all. I really appreciate everyone's help!
All those hoses should have little green spring clips from factory, the hose going to the actuator is the one you want to test vac/pressure on. From you saying it moves easily tells me the actuator is shot, it should be quite hard to pull down. I'm having a boost issue lol I'm gonna try to swap the solenoid with the bpv one and see if that's the culprit.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
All those hoses should have little green spring clips from factory, the hose going to the actuator is the one you want to test vac/pressure on. From you saying it moves easily tells me the actuator is shot, it should be quite hard to pull down. I'm having a boost issue lol I'm gonna try to swap the solenoid with the bpv one and see if that's the culprit.
There is one hose attached to the air intake tube and the electronics that does not have a clip on either end. I'll see if I can find a tool to test the vac on the hose to the actuator.

Perhaps when I shared the actuator moves easily, that was an overstatement, it does snap back in place and its the same sound I hear at high rpms. But I can move without tools.

Wonder if a small adjustment would stop the waste gate from flapping?
 

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You will hear a noise like marbles in a glass jar mainly when you accelerate between 1500 and 2500 rpm. This noise is caused by very high internal cylinder temperatures. Most common cause is an egr problem or a very lean fuel mixture-if you continue to drive with it pinging you may melt holes in your pistons etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
You will hear a noise like marbles in a glass jar mainly when you accelerate between 1500 and 2500 rpm. This noise is caused by very high internal cylinder temperatures. Most common cause is an egr problem or a very lean fuel mixture-if you continue to drive with it pinging you may melt holes in your pistons etc.
Silly question perhaps...does a gasoline engine have an egr valve? I can find nothing but Diesel engine replacements.
 

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You will hear a noise like marbles in a glass jar mainly when you accelerate between 1500 and 2500 rpm. This noise is caused by very high internal cylinder temperatures. Most common cause is an egr problem or a very lean fuel mixture-if you continue to drive with it pinging you may melt holes in your pistons etc.
I'm no expert but I'm almost certain he would be getting a CEL if that were the issue. Knock sensors would pick up on that in a heartbeat. I had same issue on my 88' 900T. At high engine load the turbo would make a pinging sound and it was actually quite a violent sound. Turbo was shot...end of story.
 
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