SaabCentral Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

I know there are a fair few threads on this, but i'd like some info more specific.

I've got a 2002 9-5 2.3t linear automatic without the PCV number 6 upgrade (on the to do list)

I've been having a few issues with lately and have spent a fair bit of time fixing them, however the latest issue is i've got no boost, gauge read top of the white. under acceleration and its slow.

cant say i can hear the turbo either, there's no smoke of any description out the back or codes. it mainly drives fine otherwise., im not sure if you can get a code that will be in the memory that didn't show up on the Sid ( haven't taken it to be checked)

on occasion the wife has report a loss of power(stuttering) when driving up a hill, I hadn't experienced it until the other day when it was poring with rain.. happen twice - then was ok after that.- was a fast stuttering under load.(no boost, just top of the white)

In the past I've had boost leaks, which didn't throw a code, and some that did, even then i was still get some boost until it stuttered , I've replaced a few of the vac lines and cant find any major leaks. I was getting a squeak every so often when pressing the brakes, I checked and re-seated some vac lines and that seems to of gone away now.

the waste gate arm is attached and seems too be in the right position (slightly left of top center) i can move the arm clockwise and it springs back - although there is a fair bit of tension there.

I took the waste gate line off the boost control valve (which is ticking when the car is on) last night and went for a drive, still the same.

I followed the R line back and there's a blue clip join, the round bit is floating freely but the line still seems tightly together. - i've read you can bypass this line, ( EVAP system) ill try that tonight, just want to make sure i do it right. (disconnect and block off the holes?)

It's like the car has just told the turbo to stop working ( limp home mode?, would it still drive relatively normal but with no boost)

for the most part it idles fine, although the last couple of days after coming to a stop (or after revving while in park) the revs have been dropping low to a point of almost stalling before recovering and idling normally.

I do have an oil leak from the CPS which i changed a bout a year ago, so i'm gonna pull that and get a new o ring, last time i had an issue with that the car wouldn't start when i was warm, but has been fine since i changed it.

There is a bit of oil that leaks from the dipstick tube and out of the throttle body. im assuming its from not having the PCV upgrade.

So,
Blocked Cat?
Seized turbo?
will any of the less expensive/easier to do parts fail and cause this?
is there any other test i can do before i take it to a mechanics to have a vac leak check done, and the cat checked?

any help would be much appreciated, sorry for the essay just wanted to get as much info out there so there's not so much back a fourth.

Sam
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
I've just disconnected the MAF sensor while the car was idling, and it didn't shut off.. even sounded a bit better..have i found my problem?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,087 Posts
From your description I don't think this is your problem, but while you're in there....

Evap - there are two blue NRVs, hidden in black foam, in the line which runs from the back of the throttle body, past the power steering reservoir, to the evap control valve. I'd be surprised at that age if they're still working, as they tend to fail open. This means that on boost air leaks out the TB back to the evap valve. One of mine stuck open and I didn't notice any difference in the drive.

Rather than do the so-called "bolt mod" that many people swear by, its easy to reconfigure the evap system to the 2005> config. As regards the failed NRVs you'll either need to buy the whole pipe length, as its rigid and the valves are heat sealed into it, or build a replacement with ebay aluminium valves and reinforced fuel hose. Silicone will sweat as its not fuel/oil proof, and will collapse anyway under the vacuum.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,473 Posts
My money is on the cat being blocked.
Remove the front o2 sensor from the downpipe and secure it somewhere (zip ties will work)..
Start car, go to street, hammer it and if it takes off like a bolt of lightening compared to before, then you know the cat is the problem.
Just do one VERY quick run just to see if it makes a noticeable difference.
You don't want to drive like that for long due to the hot exhaust blowing directly to the engine etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
857 Posts
That and the pcm will do some strange things thinking the engine is putting out no exhaust gas.. definitely don't drive long like that. I've legit seen engines blow from people messing with h0² sensors.

Infact I'd say to just get a vacuum reading. If your cat is that clogged you'll certainly have low engine vacuum.
Another "test" would be to loosen the exhaust manifold bolts. If it runs better you'll know for sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Thanks All, today I disconnected the MAF, car ran a lot smoother and just felt nicer, still no boost but smooth.

I also bought a bolt while i was at the shop and disconnected the R hose and blocked it. car ran fairly smooth still but the gear changes seemed a bit more aggressive, so i hooked it back up and it behaved again.

If i disconnect the EVAP hose at each end should i be able to blow in one direction and no the other?

also the top of the BPC valve separates from the unit, should that be on solid piece? (almost like the top is no longer glued down)

if the Cat was blocked would it still run smoothly, but just with no boost? i would of thought it wouldn't run very nice at all.

as for taking the O2 sensor out, sounds easy enough, i was planning on loosening the down pipe from the waste gate and see if the makes a difference. wasn't planning on driving it like that tho. was hoping to get the needle in the yellow range while in the garage. i don't want to make anything worse so i'm gonna call a mate of a mate tomorrow and see if he can check the codes and do a leak test for me.

I was going to try and bypass the BPC by disconnecting the two hoses to the turbo and the wastegate, and looping one of the hoses to block both ports on the BPC, that would leave the vaccum port on the turbo and the wastegate open, so obviously the wastegate wont open meaning if the turbo works then i should get boost (base boost)?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,895 Posts
Major blockage anywhere in the exhaust system can make the engine run perfectly fine up to a certain point, and then it will fall flat on its face.

I think that trying to see if there's boost while the car is in the garage isn't going to work. You do have to take it on the road. Just goosing the engine in neutral won't do it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,087 Posts
If i disconnect the EVAP hose at each end should i be able to blow in one direction and no the other?
Flow is from the evap control valve to a T where it branches rearward toward the TB and forward toward the cobra. So you should be able to blow toward the TB but not suck, and ditto to the cobra. If you disconnect the pipe at the evap control valve and can suck, you don't know which of the two NRVs is failed open. You could blow from the TB end and it shouldn't allow flow (although its awkward getting the pipe off the TB without tipping the TB on its side).

9-5 evap system.png


This is hopelessly out of scale but the control valve is top left. The twin NRVs allow flow towards the TB and cobra, and the section with the red dashes can be deleted, T pieces replaced with straight connectors, to update to 2006 config. If the NRV to the TB failed open, boost would leak back via the cobra tube to the intake which can't be good, but maybe I wasn't thrashing mine hard enough to notice any difference. Thats my point - failed NRVs won't produce the symptoms you have.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top