You need an OBD II reader. No way around it. They do make ones that are very cheap, but its best to go with one for a little more money because they do come in handy. Here is one for $18 http://www.google.com/products/catalog?client=safari&rls=en&q=OBD+II+scanner&oe=UTF-8&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=10165764455530985035&sa=X&ei=9ruxT7PfIYmwgwfFlL2ICQ&ved=0CPYBEPMCMAE#ps-sellers
Turbo not spooling, check engine light on.
Hello all this is my first post here and would love a little help. I tried searching but couldn't find what I needed. It seems pretty straight forward but we'll see what y'all say. I have an 03 saab 9-3 2.0t, purchased about 2 months ago used from dealer.
So I recently got an oil change maybe a week ago and within that time I got the check engine light and every once and a while my turbo won't spool all the way up according to stock gauge and lack of power. Mostly occurred after long drives but recently it does it whenever it wants to.
Someone told me that the oil change has to be a full synthetic on these cars or the oil return valve to the turbo could be clogged and thats why I'm experiencing these problems. I believe when I got my oil changed they used a synthetic blend not a full synthetic, is this bad?
Is there a way to pull fault codes without an OBDII reader? I know on older OBDI cars I've been able to ground certain terminal to read blinking lights in dash?
any help is greatly appreciated, I'll try to answer any questions y'all have. thanks in advance.
So I recently got an oil change maybe a week ago and within that time I got the check engine light and every once and a while my turbo won't spool all the way up according to stock gauge and lack of power. Mostly occurred after long drives but recently it does it whenever it wants to.
Someone told me that the oil change has to be a full synthetic on these cars or the oil return valve to the turbo could be clogged and thats why I'm experiencing these problems. I believe when I got my oil changed they used a synthetic blend not a full synthetic, is this bad?
Is there a way to pull fault codes without an OBDII reader? I know on older OBDI cars I've been able to ground certain terminal to read blinking lights in dash?
any help is greatly appreciated, I'll try to answer any questions y'all have. thanks in advance.
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Thanks JFN89 for the input. I will acquire one soon. How about, does anyone have an idea as to what my problem is from experience?
could really be anything
the ecu is preventing the boost due to a fault detected
as said you need to read the code and fix the cause
the ecu is preventing the boost due to a fault detected
as said you need to read the code and fix the cause
make sure it's canbus compatible..;ol;Thanks JFN89 for the input. I will acquire one soon.
Maybe its the recirculation valve...
thanks for the responses guys. Sorry it's taken me so long to reply but I finally got it checked out and it is a turbo bypass valve. Only local shop near me said they don't have time to do it and turned it down. I've worked on a lot of cars in my past but never european and never a turbo. Is this something I could tackle? Anyone here work on this issue before?
Code P0033- Turbo charger bypass valve control circuit/ open btw
Bump. Also anyone know where to purchase parts online? I'm looking to buy the Boost Control Solenoid...
You can go to thesaabsite.com or saabusaparts.com for parts in the USA. The main boost control solenoid is on top of the wastegate accuator. There is another one next to the throttle body. Check the vacuum hoses to both and check for cracks.
That is one of them but the one that usually fails is the one on the wastegate. From that picture go straight back to the item that looks like a silver can right of the air intake tube. You will see 3 small hoses coming out of it. It is just clipped on. When there are boost issues usually this is the one to replace.
Ohh ok. Thank you very much for the info Xeo01! It is much appreciated.
Are those the same part number?? I was looking on thesaabsite and I can't tell which one is which...That is one of them but the one that usually fails is the one on the wastegate. From that picture go straight back to the item that looks like a silver can right of the air intake tube. You will see 3 small hoses coming out of it. It is just clipped on. When there are boost issues usually this is the one to replace.
Different #'s. The part# for the Boost Control Valve on the wastegate is #12787706
I finally got around to doing the work and I ordered both boost control valves and put them both in, along with the 3 hoses that came with one of them. Reset my CEL and it went back on after an hour or two of driving. So those parts were not my issue unfortunately. Any other suggestions?
So if I do need to replace the bypass valve is it that part I have pictured up there with the three torx screws holding it on? And as another option is this the location a Blow Off Valve would be fitted as an alternative to a bypass valve?
Oh forgot to mention to STAY well clear of actual DUMP valves which dump to atmosphere. These are absolutely no good on your model car, and can cause more problems.
My first post is missing for some reason??
Basically yes you have pictured the correct valve. You can get a new diaphragm kit for it or a new valve. If going for a new valve I would opt for a forge item which if you look here you will find the correct version:http://www.uksaabs.co.uk/UKS/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=103899
My first post is missing for some reason??
Basically yes you have pictured the correct valve. You can get a new diaphragm kit for it or a new valve. If going for a new valve I would opt for a forge item which if you look here you will find the correct version:http://www.uksaabs.co.uk/UKS/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=103899
Is the valve that $300 part I keep reading about? Of so how much cheaper for just the new diaphragm rebuild kit? Is that the $75 kitOh forgot to mention to STAY well clear of actual DUMP valves which dump to atmosphere. These are absolutely no good on your model car, and can cause more problems.
My first post is missing for some reason??
Basically yes you have pictured the correct valve. You can get a new diaphragm kit for it or a new valve. If going for a new valve I would opt for a forge item which if you look here you will find the correct version:http://www.uksaabs.co.uk/UKS/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=103899
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
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