SaabCentral Forums banner
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
172 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Would a bad BOV "Always" cause a CEL. Mine sounds like it is going but only when the boost gets to the yellow. If I don't get into it to hard then there is no Noise.
DO you think it could be a vaccum line off and what is the size of the vaccum lines?

Thanks

Mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,035 Posts
Would a bad BOV "Always" cause a CEL. Mine sounds like it is going but only when the boost gets to the yellow. If I don't get into it to hard then there is no Noise.
DO you think it could be a vaccum line off and what is the size of the vaccum lines?

Thanks

Mike
Nope... Mine never thew a CEL. It does sound like its your BPV not holding boost anymore. Check your vaccum lines though for age. Replacing them is cheap, so I would just do it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22,211 Posts
Mine either :confused: Hooted like mad but no CEL!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
172 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It was hooting right when the boost got into the yellow. Never before. I am led to believe that that is the sound it makes when it is going bad? I just don't have a CEL and it runs fine. Very slight rough idle but I am going to clean the MAF and the TB.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22,211 Posts
Hooting means the rubber diaphram is split and leaking boost, it will get worse and you will lose power.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,035 Posts
Then it is for sure your BPV. When the unit starts going bad, air is allowed to rush across the partially open rubber diaphram causing it to vibrate and 'hoot'.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
172 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
is there any difference between aftermarket and OEM? I am on a BIG budget so any help is appreciated...Aftermarket........:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,035 Posts
yes and no. The standard bosch unit uses a rubber diaphram and that is what usually goes bad. The Forge unit uses a piston (they do have a diaphram one, but I dont know why anyone would get it) and the unit is servicable. They both work just fine and the aftermarket wont really gain you anything besides longevity. If you are on a budget, just get the bosch unit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
172 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thank You. If the BOV is on the right side of the engine, what is the Valve that has 3 vaccumm lines comming off of it on the left side ( if your looking at the engine from the front)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,035 Posts
Its your Boost Pressure Control Valve. Also, just an FYI and so there is no confusion, we use a BPV (bypass valve) on our cars, not a BOV (blow-off valve).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22,211 Posts
Its your Boost Pressure Control Valve. Also, just an FYI and so there is no confusion, we use a BPV (bypass valve) on our cars, not a BOV (blow-off valve). :p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
172 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
OK.. Is there any difference between these two except for the price and one is aluminum. What is elevated boost pressure? Do I have It and would one have any benefit over the other?
Part Number:44-41-895Cut-Off Valve for Turbo NOTE: Also available in performance version #77 0609 148. Manufacturer: BOSCH Original EquipmentApplication: 9-5 2.3 '99 thru '09
Ask a question about this item
Yes 79.00$63.52Quantity: * * 6d73fa29-8bf5-4d72-b856-380eb507f1b3Part Number:77-0609-148Cut-Off Valve for Turbo Billet Aluminum Version Designed for Elevated Boost Levels. 90 deg. Swivel Vacuum Port for Easy Installation. Manufacturer: MODE INC Application: 9-5 2.3 '99 thru '09
Ask a question about this item
Yes 110.00$113.22Quantity: * * ae25edb5-e508-4e84-b002-7b5d92986ecd
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22,211 Posts
The standard bosch one is fine, but possibly less reliable in the long run than the alloy ones with a piston rather than a diaphram.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
172 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So the piston one is better for logevitity. It will still do the same job just last a lot longer. ANything special needed to do when you install it. If I am going to get One I might as well save up and get the better one. The valve on there now is OK as long as I dont run it to hard or get the boost in the yellow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22,211 Posts
Its a very straight forward swap, nothing to worry about ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
172 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I checked in the engine area/ I had a vacuum line disconnected from when i replaced the Heater Bypass Valve. What a difference 1 line makes!!!! It feels like a whole new car. I am still going to replace the valve with the aluminum one from Bosche. I figured I should tell you it was the vacuum line not the valve. Now there is no noise and it even idles smooth....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,171 Posts
I feel like I just developed the same problem (99 T04). I was accelerating onto the interstate and pulling thru third gear. I heard a 'poosh' at high rpm, boost disappeared (no gauge but it felt like it), and now the car chugs bad during heavy foot. With the windows down, it sound like there is an air leak (loud hissing not hooting) once the car enters boost.

Curious about those ebay valves too. Might be worth the extra fifty to make sure its legitimate. Also, just purchased spark plugs and looking to see the difference once they're installed.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top