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Discussion Starter #1
Car is a 9-3 1.9TID MY07.5
Problem has been around for sometime,last summer I swapped the control relay(706A) on the fan housing hoping to cure it as all the electrical tests in WIS fault trace seemed OK.
Decided to have another go this weekend

So I swapped the ECU last night still the same thinking it might be a control resistor.

All fan activations with Tech2 work apart for control 2

I measure 5v across Pins 3/4 on activation.(ie activating control 2)
Is this a wiring problem from pin 4 back through to 69 at the ECU?
Got me stumped!



 

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I know a couple of ppl who had the same issue on the Vectra C,broken wire/s about 22-26" from the plug,was the culprit..
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Spent a few hours at this today and stripped the loom back to around level with the oil filler cap...so a good 3ft.
Both wires on pins 1 and 4 are BN/YE from the radiator and continuity was fine as far as I could go from the plug about 3ft...after that its much bigger surgery.



From my knowledge of the WIS both these wires should end up at H24-5 under the battery?


Can anyone tell me which pin no and wire colours to check?
 

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ECU connector B pin 94 to relay box pin 1 (BN/YE)
ECU connector B pin 69 to relay box pin 4 (BN/YE)
ECU connector B pin 90 to relay box pin 7 (GN/VT).
All wires are 0.5mm2.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ECU connector B pin 94 to relay box pin 1 (BN/YE)
ECU connector B pin 69 to relay box pin 4 (BN/YE)
ECU connector B pin 90 to relay box pin 7 (GN/VT).
All wires are 0.5mm2.

Thanks for the above.


I stripped everything back under the battery tray as far as possible to around level with the oil filler cap and then it dissappears around the back of the engine block.


I couldnt find a problem probing with pins back about 3ft from the rad relay..its a real rats nest and fully tape wrapped.


It looks like it comes back to the H24-5 connector under the tray and there on to the ECU?


There are quite a few BN/YE wires unfortunately and I cant find in the WIS details for the H24-5 pins.


What I would like to know is where pins 4/7 relay box go to on the H24-5 connector so I can check up and down from there.


I dont want to start ripping at the ECU until I know for sure the problem is on that side....if that makes sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Why not you just by-pass wires with new ones?

That would be the final solution but if I can identify the break somewhere on the upside I avoid hacking into the ECU plug....as you know its not the easiest place to work on!
 

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Raise car (if you use car jack, use jack stand).
Remove wheel and mud shield (8 + 10mm nuts and tx25)
Remove 3* 10mm nuts and pull.
Push lock pin and raise securing lever (you might need to lubricate/ease to move).
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Raise car (if you use car jack, use jack stand).
Remove wheel and mud shield (8 + 10mm nuts and tx25)
Remove 3* 10mm nuts and pull.
Push lock pin and raise securing lever (you might need to lubricate/ease to move).

Yes thanks again but I already swapped the ECU out with one I cloned to eliminate the possibility of an internal fault with the ECU.


I really dont want to hack at the ECU connector as this could cause more trouble than its worth further down the road.


Hoping I can find the problem in the engine bay.... hence the request for the H24-5 connector info.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Working through another wiring issue caused me to revisit this particular problem today.
Anyway I worked back from the ECU this time and found the break in the bn/ye wire that runs directly from the radiator relay pin4 to pin 69 at the ECU around the mid point of the harness where it splits just above the alternator.
As it turns out I was wrong to think the wiring returned to H24-5.
Thinking back I probably broke this myself on a previous job when I changed the inlet manifold.........there are a mess of cables and stuff to move for the job.
Error cleared and fans speeds tested with Tech2.......... all is well!
 
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