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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Just replaced the clutch cable with manual adjusting cable. Gears are still somewhat difficult to get into, must do it rather slowly, otherwise they grind (3rd and 5th more-so). I have the same prob as others with reverse, it grinds just about everytime, and has begun to pop out.
While messing with the auto-adjusting cable (before I replaced it) I hit some sweet spot where the shifting into all gears was slicky smooth - I don't know what that means. But this rapidly deteriorated to having to replace the cable.
There's been a lot of talk about linkage as a possible culprit, but no one actually saying it was a solution to the whole reverse thing, or the gear grinding. Is this correct? Is the situation simply that to fix this I have two options: 1. replace transmission or 2. rebuild the troublesome reverse gear?
Honestly, neither isn't a very good option, because that would total my car. This car is really wearing me out...
Thanks,
Brian
 

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Just opinions here, but it seems to me that if you were able to get it to work well by adjusting the old cable, then it probably is a cable issue, even if the fix didn't last. I recently put in about my 4th cable... my clutch is getting old and takes a lot of foot power to press, to the point of causing cables to break a lot. The most recent cable I put in is a new self adjusting one (SCANTECH) and it doesn't work as well as previous manual adjust model (NAPA) I had. If your clutch is getting older, trying a manual adjust cable might be worth a shot. I think the self adjust mechanisms might not be up to the force needed with an older clutch.

Edit:Just read on another post that you did install a manual adjust cable... guess that answers that one.

Checking the linkage is pretty easy and would also be a next good step. Check this link out.
http://photo.platonoff.com/Auto/20050325.Saab_NG900_Shifter_Alignment/
 

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If you have an auto adjust cable you need to reset the cable.

Push the clutch pedal all the way in & Let the pedal fly back up on the return spring. This resets the self adjusting Lock POS in the cable. Try it a few times, Its a violent procedure. You may have to re-adjust the cruise switch when your done. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
*new cable is manual adjusting, sorry for the confusion. Im just going to do the platonoff shifter alignment, and examine the linkage to look for damage. In the sticky, they talk about looking for damage, but I have know idea what it is supposed to look like in there. Anybody have damaged vs not pics?
Thanks, Brian
 

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Damage is usually the balls popped off the sockets. You'll see them in there. If they are, sometime the ball end is damaged. I suppose the small rods could be bent too, although I haven't seen that... I think the sockets pop first if there's a strain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So the noob mistake of the day was to be lazy and not remove the long extension going to the 13mm nut when testing the new adjustment. The linkage stuff cant move towards the trany if its there and the shifter cant get into any gears. Scary moment, but just felt like an idiot once I realized it was just the extension in the way.
Adjustment kinda helped, not really though. Im thinking the synchros or whatever are just messed up on the transmission. Guess I'll just ride it out to the end, I don't really see any point in replacing the trany when the whole car is only worth a couple grand at best (with a working transmission).

Aside from that, I still don't think I have a grasp on what a damaged linkage looks like. Balls and sockets, I realize, but is this under the hood or under the shifter?
Thanks,
Brian
 
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