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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I was driving along tonight and the SRS (airbag) light came on and then the ABS light also and then a third failure light came on- the skid control. I drove on a ways and then the TRANSMISSION began to slip badly. Since I was just blocks from home I trudged on rather than the worse options. However, total loss of transmission occurred, and then it became difficult to keep the engine running. Finally the engine quit and I lost all electronics power throughout the vehicle. I got the tranny into N before the engine quit, and I received a push home. :confused::x Anyone have any ideas or where to begin? Oh, I have a 2003 Saab 9-3 ARC with about 160,000 miles and I had noticed transmission slips occurring occasionally.
 

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Check the voltage level of the battery. Sounds like a possible alternator failure, when car is low on juice the systems begin to go crazy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Voltage low - under 10 V... red dust all over alternator - copper dust? and gearbox failure light is on. There is a rattling from alternator. Looks like you are correct.
 

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Starting to look like a charging issue, but a good and quick way to find out would be to put your battery immediately on a charger and get it back over 12volts. Try and start the car and if you're able to get it turned over quickly do a voltage test with a multi meter on the cars charging system. You will know right away if the alternator has failed. Get the evidence before throwing parts and money at it.
 

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Starting to look like a charging issue, but a good and quick way to find out would be to put your battery immediately on a charger and get it back over 12volts. Try and start the car and if you're able to get it turned over quickly do a voltage test with a multi meter on the cars charging system. You will know right away if the alternator has failed. Get the evidence before throwing parts and money at it.
Good advice and diagnoses MrSaab;ol;
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Mr. Saab: turns out I had to get a new battery as it would not hold a charge. With the new battery in the alternator did not charge. Engine at rest battery read about 12.6V. Turned engine on and read the voltage at battery and it slowly went down. The alternator had been rattling after the breakdown, so I dismantled the alternator, replaced bearings, and bought a new regulator. Reassembled the whole thing and still no juice from the alternator. Must be a bad rectifier? I have the alternator out again and dismantled and rectifier separated. On the diode meter the diodes are reading about .46 Any suggestions? There is 12 volts to the battery to the alternator. With the alternator in the car drives fine now, but again I am not getting a 14V or 13V charging so I assume alternator is still faulty even with a new regulator in. I am lead to believe it is the rectifier. What else could it be?
 

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Mr. Saab: turns out I had to get a new battery as it would not hold a charge. With the new battery in the alternator did not charge. Engine at rest battery read about 12.6V. Turned engine on and read the voltage at battery and it slowly went down. The alternator had been rattling after the breakdown, so I dismantled the alternator, replaced bearings, and bought a new regulator. Reassembled the whole thing and still no juice from the alternator. Must be a bad rectifier? I have the alternator out again and dismantled and rectifier separated. On the diode meter the diodes are reading about .46 Any suggestions? There is 12 volts to the battery to the alternator. With the alternator in the car drives fine now, but again I am not getting a 14V or 13V charging so I assume alternator is still faulty even with a new regulator in. I am lead to believe it is the rectifier. What else could it be?
A winding could have failed. Only way to tell is take the alternator so a shop that can test it properly. Probably time to get a new one IMHO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Alternator still not charging when in car...

Starting to look like a charging issue, but a good and quick way to find out would be to put your battery immediately on a charger and get it back over 12volts. Try and start the car and if you're able to get it turned over quickly do a voltage test with a multi meter on the cars charging system. You will know right away if the alternator has failed. Get the evidence before throwing parts and money at it.
Mr. Saab: I am hoping you can help me on this alternator ? issue.

I took out the alternator, which was not generating a charge (tested with volt meter). I have since rebuilt the thing - new bearings, tested the rotor windings, tested the stator windings (per Youtube videos), replaced the rectifier and the voltage regulator. I had the output voltage of the thing tested at a shop, and it was generating 14.6V. Seems good right? So I put it back in the car, and nothing. No volts generated.

I am looking at the "typical wiring diagram" for the charging system, and I see that the ECU and fuse 6 and fuse 31 are involved as well as R8 (starter relay) and R11 (Ignition relay) are involved as is starter.

Super frustrated. Where to begin? Any ideas?

Thank You.
 
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