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The 9-3 Aero 2.8 (B284) has the AF40 6spd automatic trans and WIS calls for AW-1 fluid... kind of amazed at some of the misinformation on here.
I was replying to the post above mine. Not sure where you see misinformation...I am aware which AT is in an 08 Aero.

EDIT: Perhaps you missed the post before yours?
 

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I was replying to the post above mine. Not sure where you see misinformation...I am aware which AT is in an 08 Aero.

EDIT: Perhaps you missed the post before yours?
Yeah I didn't see that... there were some other comments early on too. I edited out that comment too since it wasn't necessary, but you already quoted me :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #43
AUpdate.

Had a trans shop look at it at a local shop When its first cranked it seems to go into reverse and drive with out any harsh slamming into gear. Seems to me its when things get up to temp the problem start to reoccur. Im beginning to suspect thee valve body. I it will eradicate the shift issues i have carfax and its was serviced 33 times. Trans checked around 60,000 miles. Doesn't seem from a reputable dealer who did inspection. I has 143,000 miles and outside trans problem the rest of tbe car is in tip to shape. Cosmetically and engine wise it running great and looking sharp. Fluid was quite burnt "trans" but it drove like a new car and didn't give me any problems shifted great it's only up until I parked it for a few days hopped in it and it was still likely cold everything in there like fluid wise and as soon as.I STARTN slipping I'm a pretty bad. The mechanic I talked to said he had good and bad news he doesn't think the transmission needs to be rebuilt or replaced, he couldn't even get it to slip but they were able to replicate the hard shifting he said good news is I won't have to replace it likely the bad news is I the mecahnic doesn't have the ability to work on it I don't have money to keep towing car from shop to shop. Any recommendations? I think tomorrow I'm going to get a liter of the proper fluid and follow the proper procedure and try to cycle the fluid that's not supposed to be in there out and get good fluid back in there I'm just hoping it's not too late and not drivable but granted it drove fine and slip a couple of times and I parked it I think it's salvageable. If the fluid trying to fill doesn't work after doing it properly I suspected valve body. When I get the fluid out I'll know a lot more about the condition of the inside of the transmission hopefully I don't have a bunch of metal Flakes and even broken gear pieces that would be terrible. Yall wish me luck. & any advice you can provide would be detrimental to my knowledge and servicing is vehicle. I refuse to part out or give up this car. Driving it is a blast and eventually yiu realixe you are exclusive, one if the few who get ro experiece SAAB6. Especially awning the 2.8 turbo V6 automatic that thing is really fun imagine how fun the stick SHIFT IS lkee
 

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Rinse and repeat it properly using the instructions above on this post. Hopefully no damage. Buy the exact fluid. Find a Saab mechanic thru this board or one of the others and have them do it unless you can get your mechanics to do it according to the instructions. Personally, I would not have touched the trans fluid. I've recently restored a 2003 Vector that had a bad transmission amongst other issues. I have a lift in my garage and would not wish a DIY trans change on anyone. Good luck.
 

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Im not ASE certified, but i have around 20 years Experience in saabs, according to the website for the ATF posted above it is not compatible with SAAB.
weve been using TOYOTA-WS for it, and Toyota T-IV for the 5 speed since 2010 , they are 1000% the same fluid as the original specs from AW.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Im not ASE certified, but i have around 20 years Experience in saabs, according to the website for the ATF posted above it is not compatible with SAAB.
weve been using TOYOTA-WS for it, and Toyota T-IV for the 5 speed since 2010 , they are 1000% the same fluid as the original specs from AW.
Ive got 3 qts flushed out and added back, did it properly, seems to have made little difference. Still slips and shifts hard. Also lags into R an D gears. I used a compatible fluid. I suspect the valve body. Ive never seen a darker dluid come from a car before
 

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I cant remember u mentioned slipping in the initial comment, hard shifting is smthn and slipping is smthn else.
However if the other mechanic just added fluid on top of the old one that can explain the darkness of the fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Yeah it shifts hard, slips, and when moving from park to reverse, its delays a few seconds and slams into gear kind of lunging forward. It still moves tho. Seems ro be 1st and 2nd are the worse. And nah man that fluid has likely never beem changed, or maybe once and im at 143,000 miles. I got some seamfoam trans tune that will run thru and clean deposits and the valve body, and some lucas stop slip but i think i probably shouldnt use them. Car throws no codes. No check engine.. I'm not sure if you remember me mentioning that my cousin only drained the fluid from the inner bolt on the drain plug and only got a half cord out and then filled it with four more quarts of the wrong fluid well when I Undead that inner screw I almost fl the whole 7 quart pan with fluid and then I took the main plug out and it only drained about 3
 

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Discussion Starter #51
[
I cant remember u mentioned slipping in the initial comment, hard shifting is smthn and slipping is smthn else.
However if the other mechanic just added fluid on top of the old one that can explain the darkness of the fluid.
[/QUOTE] but yeah thats where im at. Also makes a bit of a rattle noise in park and reverse only when stationary
 

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If u r sure that it cant be salvaged , then use the stop slip additive, that wouldnt hurt it more
 

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Discussion Starter #55
How would i find a mechanic willing to open it up and go from there because I'm having no luck where I live literally no transmission specialist shop will touch it I've tried GM dealership and everything
 

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Discussion Starter #56
ford motorcraft xt-8-qaw. Fluid was designed for the same transmission and I did extensive research it certainly is compatible with it your choice of fluid may have been better but I couldn't find it here at the Toyota dealership
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Also the tankering / rattling noise only happens when it's in drive or reverse and I'm sitting stationary that's the only thing that's really concerning me about whether it can be saved or not but the shop I took into thinks it can
 

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This doesn’t solve your transmission banging issue but the rattling sound you hear when in D or R may be the serpentine belt tensioner. It’s especially noticeable when the AC compressor is engaged and seems to be a common issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
If u r sure that it cant be salvaged , then use the stop slip additive, that wouldnt hurt it more
I think my only options here is to replace trans. I got a loan from my bank for the repair. And have 1600 i can spend. Maybe someone could point me in the right direction?
 

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Dear god this thread makes my head hurt.

Here's my suggestion, as a professional mechanic.

Find a reputable repair shop that you trust, not a transmission shop. I would find a shop that has a diagnostic culture. If they have a "menu" to sell from like a McDonalds, walk out, you're in the wrong place. Make sure they work on European cars because not all technicians are tooled for the Euro market. Pay them for an hour of labor to diagnose your car. If you can get the tech to ride in the car with you so he can see, feel, and experience what the car is/is-not doing, that would be really helpful. After an hour of diagnostic time, the tech should be able to tell you what is wrong with the vehicle. We're looking for facts here. "I got measurement A, when I should see B", not guesses or suppositions. A transmission is nothing but a series of hydraulic valves, so taking direct pressure readings at the transmission and comparing them to what the ECM is commanding and what the TCM is reporting is where I would start.
 
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