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Discussion Starter #21
Getting the right stuff for this car thru these big na
Then u will need to drain the whole fluid, flush and fill with TOYOTA-WS (this Is my suggestion which is proven to work 100%)
To flush, u will need to disconnect cooler line from radiator and let it spell fluid out with car running.
tell me if u want complete instructions on that
Yes id like to know the correct procedure i will do it myself. I normally do all work on this car myself but automatic trans are a thing of mystery
Also, these big name parts stores should not be giving ppl the wrong fluid when you give them a part number. Im not a mechanic, they need to
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I wonder how many ppl put the wrong fluid in these transmissions because the parts store computers say its compatible
 

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get at least 8L of the toyota-WS.
Drain the fluid as u would do normally by removing both the inner and outer part of the drain plug.
Close the drain plug(both parts).
Fill with 5L of the new fluid.
Remove upper ATF cooler line where it connect to radiator, there is a collar u need to pry back, then there is the C-clip u need to pull, then u can pull the pipe out.
Connect a Long clear hose to this pipe (secure it by a hose clamp) and let it dump in a bucket.
Start the car (let a helper do it).
Fluid will start to flow out into the bucket, shift between PRND, once 2L is out, turn off the car and fill with new 2L.
Repeat again to extract another 2L and fill with another 2L.
Reconnect the cooler pipe.
Start the Car, remove inner part of the drain plug and let it drain until no fluid comes out (try not to exceed 80c transmission temp if u have a scanner, or just let it run for 5 min).
Close drain plug, add 400ml of fluid to the transmission .

edit: slight mod, was trying to remember if the output pipe is actually the upper or lower one on the 6 speeds, it might be the lower cooler line, so remove that instead, thats the one that should shoot out the fluid from when car is running, if u do so and the fluid shoots out from the radiator side then switch to upper.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
The trans makes a messed up noise in drive or reverse. Im curious if its even able to be salvaged or if the damage is already done like it definitely doesnt drive or sound like its gonna be okay
 

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Discussion Starter #25
get at least 8L of the toyota-WS.
Drain the fluid as u would do normally by removing both the inner and outer part of the drain plug.
Close the drain plug(both parts).
Fill with 5L of the new fluid.
Remove upper ATF cooler line where it connect to radiator, there is a collar u need to pry back, then there is the C-clip u need to pull, then u can pull the pipe out.
Connect a Long clear hose to this pipe (secure it by a hose clamp) and let it dump in a bucket.
Start the car (let a helper do it).
Fluid will start to flow out into the bucket, shift between PRND, once 2L is out, turn off the car and fill with new 2L.
Repeat again to extract another 2L and fill with another 2L.
Reconnect the cooler pipe.
Start the Car, remove inner part of the drain plug and let it drain until no fluid comes out (try not to exceed 80c transmission temp if u have a scanner, or just let it run for 5 min).
Close drain plug, add 400ml of fluid to the transmission .

edit: slight mod, was trying to remember if the output pipe is actually the upper or lower one on the 6 speeds, it might be the lower cooler line, so remove that instead, thats the one that should shoot out the fluid from when car is running, if u do so and the fluid shoots out from the radiator side then switch to upper.
Sorry im trying to get used to how this text box works.
 

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well, its ur call.
I would invest 50$ in a flush, rather than just putting a new tranny which can cost a 1000$
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Ive
well, its ur call.
I would invest 50$ in a flush, rather than just putting a new tranny which can cost a 1000$
Ive heard about the valve bodies on these failing, but how susceptible to failure is the gearbox and components inside i cant find too much on thes tf80-sc completely failing
 

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I heard about the valve body issue but never seen it myself, i can only assume it is the earlier valve bodies or lack of maintenance .
I actually dont remember we had to replace any 6speed, the engine dies first in these cars.
 

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Well guys, i bought a 2008 saab 9-3 aero automatic about a week ago midway up into kentucky. I live in north Alabama so a 5-6 hour trip back was a good time to get a feel for the car. It drove great, has a part of suspension that needs to be replaced, as it vibrates a lil inbetween 60-70. Anyways engine ran smooth, transmission shifted like a new car, all seemed well for a car with 143,××× miles. I got a couple of short pulls in making sure nothing was gonna pop or bang. Ive previously owned the exact same car just with higher miles and a lil qtr panel damage, different color too. Most reliable thing ive ever owned, never put me on the side of the road. All i evwr had to do was coil packs and oil changes. Oh and the serpentine belt. Anywho back to the new saab, i drive it around town for 2 days and ran into my first issue. THE. KEY. WOULD. NOT. COME. OUT .OF .THE. IGNITION. i pulled up at a friends to ahkw him ma sweet new ride, went to turn the car off and the fob wouldnt turn into the lock position. When i finally did manage to get the key into the lock position, thw key wouldnt turn back out of it effectively making it where it couldnt be started when needed. Unplugging battery seemed to at random, allow me to start the car again, but same deal, key wont move past off position into lock. So i took to the forums to figire it out. Replaced key battery, no good, replaced car battery, worked normally a couple of times then started doing the same thing, i finally cracked and decided to get the ignition switch out of the car to further inspect and fix if possible, took me 3 hours of dismantling the entire center console from the radio to the back seat passenger vents. It all had to come out. I got the ignition switch out and inspected it. Outside assembly was stick looked like coffee or tea, i got it opened up to where i could see thw pcb and connections and instantly saw a prett good bit of corrosion on one of the pins and its where it makes contact on the pcb. Got a brush with hard bristles of some sort and scrubbed away all corrosion, bent the pins upwards a lil, applied some lithium grease to the mechanical mechanism that turns with the key and bam! Problem solved, atleast for now. Hopped in bed with my girl and passed out for the night. Saturday night i went to leave my girls house late at night. Got in, turned the key freely as it should amd cranked car. Put it in reverse and backed out of her driveway and went to start driving away down the road.

This is where it takes a turn for the worst...

As i start giving it some gas it starts to go, like it should. About 2-3 seconds of it pulling in i assume 1st gear, it slipped, and revved all ths way up imto the redline and BANG. We are now in the following gear. Same story, pulls just a lil, slips like hell and then..BANG.. reapeat. Imi never made it very far from her house so i pulled in a neighbors driveway and put it in reverse this was the worst one

BANG

at this point i knew something had gone horribly wrong, i swapped to manual, left it in 2nd gear and juat kinda rolled back barely using the gas.

Now i had it inspected when i bought it. The cv axles outer shaft seals were busted on both sides. I had already order replacement seals. I immediately suspected it was low on trans fluid and that there was no telling how long tmit had been leaking from those seals, but granted it had beem shifting great the whole time i was a lil confused that it just started acting up outta nowhere. I parked it for the night decide id deal with it next day. Went and hopped back in bed with ma lady. I had my cousin pick me up some trans fluid from autozone by his work after he got off. The recommended fluid they say to use is NOT SAFE to use is these aisin transmissions. I had that ** taken back and we proceeded to go on a manhunt for some aw-1 spec trans fluid. Went to o reillys instead and they cross referenced the gm recommended part number. Didnt have the official aw1 spec trans fluid, but the part number did cross with some "pentosin ATF1" as close as i was gonna get locally, and website of manufacturer said it was safe for use in a variety of european vehicles, saab included. grabbed 4 qts of that as i decided i was gonna do a drain and fill. Just to get me by until the outershaft seals came in. Obviously i started with ths fill plug, (wont do any good if i drain it but cant get fluid in it) and boy let me tell you that mfer was ON there. I almost gave up tbh cuz i was certain it was gonna have to be hit with a torque wrench. Well, i remembered some ** a few mechanics showed me with a ratchet and closed end wrench and with all my might was finally able to break the fill plug loose. Mustve took an hour atleast fighting with it. Dragged me a plastic pa. To catch the fluid to be drained and got ths drain bolt off. It was very dark brown almost black. You guys arent gonna believe this ****, but ONLY A HALF QUART OF TRANS FLUID DRAINED OUT!! A [email protected]$KING HALF QUART?!?! i with all my limited mechanical knowledge could not understand how in tf the car was even able to move in the first place. I am still baffled, i just cant comprehend it. I knew that was bad new, REALLY bad news. But i crossed my fingers and endured hoping like hell that somehow that gearbox was tough as hell as ive heard good things about them being able to take a beating, so i went the optimistic route and was hoping the saab was gonna be okay. I filled with the 4 qrts.

Let it run for a lil while to get all the fluids to temp and then while remaining stationary started moving thru the gears. It slammed into reverse and drive every time. I tried. Even seemed to get progressively worse/harder thunking. Got my cousin to hop in the car and while still in denial tried to take it down the road. Slip...bang....slip.....bang.... Repeat. The transmission is dead. Or might as well be itll still goin into gear but there in no way that it can be driven in that state. Something internally is 100% broken. In drive of reverse you also here some rattling of sorts. Almost like metal tinkering around in a can or something.

Ive owned this car for 1 week and spent most of my savings on it. I cant afford to fix it unfortunately, not without help. I just dont understand how it shitfted so good, and then bam, also where did all the fluid go? There was never a drop of anything under wherever i parked besides water from the ac. Its an awful situation i was supposed to be starting work too. Not possible now with no transportation. Im not necessarily asking for any handouts but if you guys in the saab community could help me get her back on the road im sure theres some way i can compensate. Maybe somebody is parting out there aero? Or can point me in the direction of a good rebuild kit? Im not asking for anyones money, but if there is anyone on here willing to monetarily donate to get me back on the road i will certainly take any donations and provide receipts of repairs and dates, so you know it wemt where it was supposed to go. And help would be greatky appreciated, im 25 years old and im trying to get back on me feet, its just been a rough year for us all. I dont know you all, but we are bound by our appreciation for saabs, and id like to go ahead and thank everyone in advance becuase i know somebody will try their best to help. Wish me luck and have a great day lads View attachment 275989 View attachment 275990
Be careful with Swedish transmissions- I have a Volvo S60 and my normal mechanic almost fried the trans when he did not know how to change fluid (it takes a special kit to pump the new fluid in) he had about four quarts too many in. The Saab is similar based on my research and my 2006 93 convertible with 88k is almost ready at 90k. Do some research before anyone services it or works on it and make sure they know what they are doing.
 

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I had the exact same problem with a 2008 TurboX automatic. Would slip and bang into gear, though usually 2nd and 3rd, not all gears. Was seemingly due to overfilling, though tbh I never fully resolved the issue before I gave up and sold it at loss (the delayed shift -> banging into gear continued maybe once every other day for a while ... just kept driving it. ) . The aisin transmission seems plenty strong, it is definitely worth taking the time to flush carefully & fill with exactly the right qty fluid when the tranny is fully hot.
 

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2 things based on my (limited) experience with my 2007 Aero -

For the 2.8 with AF40 6speed, the Auto trans drain and fill requires a Tech2 to monitor the fluid level at temp (per WIS), there is no dipstick like on the 2.0, only a oil level tube.

Do not flush the transmission fluid, only do a drain and fill.

Edit: Also, if the fluid is that burnt you may be too late to save it.
 

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I have a 2008 9-5, not a 9-3 and I'm just going to offer one thought.

The Aisin Warner AW55-50SN 5-speed transmission was used on '03 through '07 9-3s. On that transmission occasionally mechanics will by mistake remove the third gear band anchor bolt which is located on top of the transmission and looks very much like a fill plug. When that happens the transmission requires disassembly to reinstall the band anchor bolt though I remember reading about someone who figured out how to do it with the transmission in the car using a magnet IIRC.

This probably has nothing at all to do with your problems, I'm just throwing it out there in case you or your mechanic removed the wrong "fill plug."
 

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AFAIK the same basic Aisin AF33 5 speed auto was used for the entire NG 9-3 production run. My 2011 has one. Saab designations are AF33, FA57, AW55-50SN, and AW55-51SN (also GM AF33-5 and RE5F22A). The external difference between early and late transmissions seems to be the orientation of the solenoid connector and the use of B5 spring. The internals are the same.

AW 55-50 / AF23-33: Diagnosis and Valve Body Information
Not sure what year you have? Check for the B5 spring in the valve body.
AF33 internals
 
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AFAIK the same basic Aisin AF33 5 speed auto was used for the entire NG 9-3 production run. My 2011 has one. Saab designations are AF33, FA57, AW55-50SN, and AW55-51SN (also GM AF33-5 and RE5F22A). The external difference between early and late transmissions seems to be the orientation of the solenoid connector and the use of B5 spring. The internals are the same.

AW 55-50 / AF23-33: Diagnosis and Valve Body Information
Not sure what year you have? Check for the B5 spring in the valve body.
AF33 internals
The 9-3 Aero 2.8 (B284) has the AF40 6spd automatic trans and WIS calls for AW-1 fluid...
 
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