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Discussion Starter #1
OK, I've been out of the SAAB scene for about a year now but I have done this job 4 times now (owner of 5 SAABs). I refrained from really talking to much about how to do this as the local dealer charges ~$400 to do this and does the cutting method so often described on here (I charged less and did it faster). Not that the way I do it is novel in any way, shape, or form. Kind of makes me sick to call myself ASE Certified and get lumped into the catagory of these monkeys.

Anyway I figured this would be useful information for you guys doing this job.
Only had to do this job on the drivers side bushing on a '98 900, '99 9-3 lpt, '99 9-3 HOT, and '00 9-3 HOT. 2 of which were my personal cars.

Some of these steps will not be detailed as I assume you guys attempting this are more than capable of replacing an axle and we are just going a step further.


Step 1: jack up car, remove wheel, loosen spindle nut

Step 2: remove caliper, abs sensor, pop lower ball joint and tie rod, remove upper 3 nuts and take suspension assembly out (might not have to, but I did for more room, esspecially if you're using a BFH or anything other than an air hammer)

Step 3: use the axle removal tool and slide hammer to pop the axle out of the transmission

Step 4: you should see the bushing in question, insert the largest blind hole puller until the lip clears the bushing, tighten the tool, insert the 5 lb slide hammer (you can use the smaller slide hammer, the bigger is faster). bushing should be out in 2 minutes tops. PICS 1, 2, and 3

Step 5: start the new bushing in by lightly tapping it with the bushing driver tool. drive the new bushing in using a BFH or air hammer (only if you can come up with a decent adapter for the air hammer). drive the bushing flush. PICS 4, 5, and 6

Step 6: beverage of choice. PIC 7

Step 7: pop out and replace seal if needed (don't skimp, replace the seal)

Step 8: reassemble your front end




Tools needed other than a normal socket set:
BFH - Big Friggin' Hammer
27033 - 5lb slide hammer (Autozone Loan-A-Tool)
27058 - axle puller attachment (Autozone Loan-A-Tool)
27128 - blind hole puller set (Autozone Loan-A-Tool)
27137 - bushing/race/seal driver kit (Autozone Loan-A-Tool)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I listed a bunch of tools from Autozone. I do have to tell you that I am an Autozone employee, and while I am Certified, do not represent Autozone etc, etc....


the blind hole puller set is ~$160
slide hammer ~$40
the axle attachment ~$30
the Bushing driver ~$40
I'm reciting these from memory and out prices do vary by region. By no means am I trying to sell these tools to you, these are part of the Free Loan-A-Tool program where you get the deposit back when you bring the tool back (3 months to use it).


Hope this helps you all. Cutting these bushing and trying not to break anything else in the process would take easily longer than how I've done it.

This community was great while I was a current SAAB owner, hopefully I'm repaying any debts. If someone while they do this could make a better write up with better pics that would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ah my third SAAB (had 5), first Coupe (had 3), first turbo coupe (had 2, both '99, last was a '97 900s 2.3) at that. was like 24 in that pic


mmmeeeeeeeemmmmoooorrrriiiiieeeeeeeeessssssss
 

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I remember calling around making sure someone knew how to cut it out, called 5 shops, one of them ending up telling me "Well you seem like you know how to do it better" like an #$$. Then one guy ended up doing it and charged $500. Thanks for posting
 

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Awesome! so glad you posted this. I have to do this job in a few weeks and was dreading the use of a dremel inside my diff/tranny. Would anyone happen to have a parts list for this job, so I make sure I am replacing what needs to be replaced in one fell swoop. My job is on a '99 5mt passenger side.
 

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Cutting it with a hacksaw blade in a handle is not such a bad job - 5 to 10 mins of sawing at most. Stuff some grease loaded rag in the diff to catch any cuttings and the rest will be caught by the magnet in the drain plug later. Be aware that a loose carrier for the inner driver can also be down to the output shaft roller bearing being worn which needs shimming correctly to fix.
 

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Tried the slide hammer and ended up with nothing but a sore arm and a chunk of skin missing. Plus it's 104 out today :(

Got an idea... use the blind hole puller and a gear puller. Put in the bearing puller, take off the side case, get the gear puller, connect it to the bearing puller & a few of the side case bolts and.... bushing out? Seems like it could come out easily with this method.

Otherwise I have an air saw...
 

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I have a leak here on mine. I'm I correct that a failed bushing could cause the leak? How do I tell it my bushing is still good and I just have a failed seal? Car drives good, even above 90mph no shakes or vibration.
 

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If the bush or bearing is worn then there will be excessive pay between the axle support cup and the transmission which will cause the seal to leak. Grab the axle and try to move it up and down to check for excessive play - a few mm is normal.
 

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If the bush or bearing is worn then there will be excessive pay between the axle support cup and the transmission which will cause the seal to leak. Grab the axle and try to move it up and down to check for excessive play - a few mm is normal.
Got it, thanks.
 

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I went out and checked mine; it moves 1-2 mm, but all it takes is a push from my thumb to move it. Seems to me that it does have too much play so I'll be replacing the bush using this method.
 

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Look here, I have no where near this much play, Mine is more like 2mm. I'm still up in the air if my 190k mile car needs the bushing.
 
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