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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have the same problem i had before. The hulk put on my oil drain bolt. It wont budge at all. Its rounded off and it took 2 sockets and a wrench with it. It pretty much tore the two wrenches and blew up my auto locking wrench. Lol

So my question is am i fine doing a topside change oil with the saab? B234 n/a. I was looking at either a handpump (which apparently takes forever) or spending a bit more and gettibg the unlimited electric oil extractor which attatches to the battert. Ill still change the oil filter ofcourse. But i reckon its just way less hassle than having to buy a nut and gasket and ruining (although cheap) tools along the way. Lol
 

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Dude, I can't believe you are having this problem again. :lol:

You need to learn to change you own oil. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was!! I do it all the time in manila!! Lol but it wont bloody budge at all! So im leaning towards doing a topside oil change from now. I had the car propped up on ramps but it just wont budge lol so peeeed. The shop that did it last (from when it was last rounded) overtightened it lol
 

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Just grab it with a pipe wrench a get it off.

I think we had this convo before.

A topside oil change is crazy talk. :eek:
 

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Yeah, any time an oil pan nut is sticking for some reason I get the 1/2" breaker bar out and it's loose in 10 seconds or less. It's going to be the only way to properly change the oil. Replace the filter too. If it won't budge, buy a filter wrench. If the filter wrench won't work, jam a screw driver through it and turn. Hell, I've used a torn shirt wrapped around the filter, twisted with a screwdriver until taught, and removed that way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Gonna give it another go on sunday. I've found a bar that should give me extra leverage. lol if all else fails I'm going with a topside oil change. We've done it with other cars and its been fine. :eek: I'm gonna use a differnt 13' wrench with the breaker bar
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
im certain its in the right direction too. although Ive been told the oem saab nuts are notoriously soft and I bought this one from saab artarmon lol in other news the tappet noise is gone. finally found the culprit
 

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I have used a vacuum pump to change the oil in the engines of my boat for many years. To do it efficiently, the oil has to be hot. The thermostats in the boat engines are 145 degrees, so they don't get nearly as hot as an auto engine.

Anyway, about 15 years ago, I decided to use the pump to change the oil in my Silverado. I warmed up the engine and started vacuuming. After a minute or so, the oil output just about shut down. I started to pull the plastic tube out of the dip stick tube and it started to stretch like taffy. After I pulled a foot or so, I gave up because the tube just got smaller and smaller.

I let the engine cool down an hour or so, and the rest of the tube finally came out. The main problem was that the dip stick tube was very close to one of the exhaust manifolds, which heated it even more.

So, if you have to use the vacuum pump, don't let the engine get real hot to avoid the problem that I had... Ron
 

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I'd "BITOG" this. Saab is not the only one with this problem, but its only 1% of the numbers.
Special tools are made for removing stuck/damaged oil drain plugs...if those from Saab are soft, thats GOOD! - better a $5 screw than a $500 pan...lol:cheesy::D:):lol:.
I'd also use an impact driver rather than simple leverage...IMO, its safer, easier on the oil pan.
Two wrenches should be used for this task, one ,long, to loosen and one , short, to tighten.
 
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