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Discussion Starter #1
Before you read anymore, yes I realize this is going to suck.

I found coolant in my oil today while I was checking it :x . Does anyone know how much it is going go cost to get a top-end Overhaul. I just want to get this whole thing cleared up and my 9-5 back to perfect shape.

thanks for your input.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you,

That is just what I assume, when I took out the dipstick the oil was not as think as it should have been (dripping off of the dip stick) and there was yellow dots/muck and crap in the oil. I have seen this before, years ago in a Sable that I had, and had a top engine over haul done on it.
 

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I also had the same symptom that you are now experiencing. One day while checking the oil, the dipstick contained what I describe as a milkshake type residue. It was all over the dipstick! I thought the worse as you have but it ended up being a harmless situation caused by water condensation. It disappeared as soon as I had the latest PCV #6 modification installed. I have not seen it since which is almost a year ago. I believe that it occurs more frequently when a lot of short drive cycles occur with the car. If you do a search you will find other posts with the exact same synptom!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the reply, but this does not have a milkshake type residue. It has yellow dots in the oil and... well I guess there isn't another way to put, it kind of looks like little bits of crap in the oil. The oil is also not as think as it should be, it drips off of the dip stick at times.

Does anyone know how much this is going to cost?
 

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Kermit said:
Before you assume its the head gasket try retorquing the head down.
I concur, new head bolts are about $50 for a set and if you have a torque wrench you can do it yourself. The early cars had issues with the heads not being torqued right so it's definately where I'd start.
 
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alienbrain said:
Thanks for the reply, but this does not have a milkshake type residue. It has yellow dots in the oil and... well I guess there isn't another way to put, it kind of looks like little bits of crap in the oil. The oil is also not as think as it should be, it drips off of the dip stick at times.
The little bits of crap in the oil can be sludge related? Perhaps it's a good idea to drain the oil first and take a good look at it. Afaik, coolant and oil don't mix so it should be easy to see. It is difficult to determine the condition of the oil with such a small sample from the dipstick. When was the last time the oil was changed? How many miles are on your car?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Alright, sounds good I will check that out. I hope that is what the issue is, that would be much better then doing a whole over haul. I was also just thinking that my coolant level is not going down, so that is another plus.

So how do I go about checking the heads? and if that is the problem I assume that I will need to flush the system free of the crap that is in there now, I have never done that, how do I go about doing that?

Thanks,
 

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http://www.genuinesaab.com/psi/files/headretorque.htm

Takes about 30 minutes. All you need is a basic torque wrench and some torx sockets. You can probably reuse your bolts as well. Doing this solved my head gasket issues... some of the head bolts were downright loose... barely even finger tight.

If this doesn't fix it, then I would recommend buying new bolts if you are going through the trouble of replacing the gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I have about 153k on the car and the last time I changed the oil was about 8k ago. I use synthetic and have never had a problem like this before. Maybe the car is just getting older and needs more attention then it did in its younger days.
 

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Don't care, just get that oil out now! No more than 5K on any oil change.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Raven18940 said:
Don't care, just get that oil out now! No more than 5K on any oil change.
Wow, I thought with Synthetic I could go more. Thanks guys I will get this changed ASAP, I will get this changed in the morning on the way to work. I would do this myself except I have 1 foot of snow outside my house.

Thanks for your help guys, I will let you know if this was the problem.
 

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alienbrain said:
Wow, I thought with Synthetic I could go more. Thanks guys I will get this changed ASAP, I will get this changed in the morning on the way to work. I would do this myself except I have 1 foot of snow outside my house.

Thanks for your help guys, I will let you know if this was the problem.
Might as well retorque the headbolts first, then drain out your currently coolant filled oil. Then you have a clean slate to check, so if you find any coolant after that, you will know for sure that it is new, and you have a bigger problem.
 

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Great advice from everyone here, especially that about changing the oil more frequently...

If you make a lot of short trips in cold weather, that watery, waxy condensate won't be able to burn off and it will eventually form sludge...the engine-killing kind. That was one of the factors Saab engineers isolated in their post-mortem analysis of sludged B235 engines...

And seriously...no more than 5K on a change, as said before...maybe 6-7K if you forget and only do highway driving.
 

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Synthetic oil

Wow, I thought with Synthetic I could go more.
My Father in Law is convinced of this too. I think its amsoil marketing. I think on non-turbo engines this may be the case, but since the turbo is oprerated at such high speeds, and specific tolerances, care must be taken when thinking about synthetic oil.

You should also take the time to find a synthetic that has the european A3/B3 rating on it. It seems to have something to do with film consistancy in tight places (like around a turbo shaft).
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Al's Red Wagon said:
My Father in Law is convinced of this too. .
You are making me feel old :) j/k, I will not do this again if this is the issue.

I will keep you posted, thanks again.
 
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