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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well the last few days I have notice a slowing in the interior fan, diming of lights etc... It was doing it well idleing, and when on the move and was a bit random. I figured the alternator was going, well it did just last night on the drive home the CE came on then went off a few times and then the battery light came on. So I turned off all electrical and limped on home.

My questions are (1999 9-3) which alternator, 90 am or 130amp?

Any tips and tricks on how to replace the alternator, its my first with a SAAB?

Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Get the car up on ramps and spray the treads of the alternator bolts from below. You will see how long the bolts are and the only way you can get to the threads is from below.

Disconnect the negative battery cable. Take the serpentine belt and tensioner off. You will need an 8-mm allen wrench to get the tensioner off. Use a regular allen wrench with a length of pipe for leverage. Loosen the downpipe to drop the alternator out the bottom. When you get the alternator bolts out, you may need to pry the metal bushings back into the alternator bracket a little to loosen the alternator. Once it's flopping in the bracket, it will come right out.

Do a board search to see some of the horrors that have happened with the alternator change, and post if you need help.

If you need to turn in your old core, remove the voltage regulator/brush assembly as a spare. It's located under the round plastic cover... Ron
 

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I simply changed the regulator/brushes on mine at 160 or K; this should have been done at 150K, as the the communicator was worn quite a bit. I cannot understand why people think that the entire alternator must be changed...PMI had a great tutorial on this subject.
But, when 250K is hit, then the alternator must go due to so much wear on the communicator and the bearings. The next owner will receive the records and notes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I simply changed the regulator/brushes on mine at 160 or K; this should have been done at 150K, as the the communicator was worn quite a bit. I cannot understand why people think that the entire alternator must be changed...PMI had a great tutorial on this subject.
But, when 250K is hit, then the alternator must go due to so much wear on the communicator and the bearings. The next owner will receive the records and notes.
Do you have a link for that tutorial?
 

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I originally had the 90 amp alternator and I went to the 130 amp. The 130 amp is a little bigger than the 90 so it may give you a little trouble on installation.
 

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If you get a rebuilt alternator (or new one for that matter), make sure you get one with the pulley already installed. You don't want to have to remove the pulley from the old alternator... Ron
 

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90
The 130 is for the V6.
But, you may be able to use a 130, as, I believe, the difference is in the regulator.
 

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I bought the 130amp from Autozone and it had the wrong bolt pattern. We pulled another one and it was the same way. I had to take it back and get the 90amp.

As far as replacement, I would check the grounds at the transmission, the + cable from the battery to the BUS and the battery itself before I jumped on the Alternator. If the alternator is bad, changing it is a bear but is completely doable if you take your time and remove enough parts surrounding it. I rounded a bolt when I was removing mine so i had to drop the alternator and bracket as a complete assembly. To get it out, I had to drop my exhaust and push it out of the way. While you're in there, do a short belt mod and check the idler.

Here's a short write-up that may help as well.
 

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IIRC, NG900s require the code and the newer 9-3s don't.

I just checked the WIS and the only time "Check Code" comes up is if another OEM radio is put into the car witout being properly divorced from the donor car and married to the new car. So you chould be OK... Ron
 
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