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Discussion Starter #1
Good Morning

2005 9-5 Arc w/ 257k miles. I need to replace the timing chain tensioner seal & o-ring to fix an oil leak at that location. Is it a simple remove the tensioner, replace the seal & o-ring, reset the tensioner to zero and put it back in piece-wise? Everytime someone here talks about a guide, they refer to SeriousSaab posts that talk about doing a whole timing chain replacement or overhauling the cylinder heads. Granted, nice pictures, but much more intensive than I need, and quite possibly extraneous stuff I don't need to do.

Thanks
Bryce
 

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Yes, it's that easy
  • Take out the 12mm bolt that holds the spring and plunger in. The O-ring goes on there. Be careful not to lose or break the plunger, it's brittle after all of these years.
  • Unscrew the tensioner, replace the seal on the tensioner, reset it back to shoulder by pushing on the small catch.
  • screw the tensioner back in and tighten
  • put the plunger, spring and bolt back in and tighten
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes, it's that easy
  • Take out the 12mm bolt that holds the spring and plunger in. The O-ring goes on there. Be careful not to lose or break the plunger, it's brittle after all of these years.
  • Unscrew the tensioner, replace the seal on the tensioner, reset it back to shoulder by pushing on the small catch.
  • screw the tensioner back in and tighten
  • put the plunger, spring and bolt back in and tighten
Can you confirm what size socket is needed for the tensioner body? My 1" socket is apparently too small, and my 27 mm socket won't fit through the "tunnel".
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the confirmation. I guess I'll take off the alternator and the bracket that has that stupid tunnel. Grrr.
 

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I would avoid this at any cost, there are so many things that could go wrong. Finding a smaller socket is so much easier. Or find some machine shop that can put it on a lathe and reduce outer diameter.
Be very careful when you put the body back in, it should be done without a ratchet. There is more than one case where people damaged the thread --> new cylinder head.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Not really. I've done it before, and so much of the backside of my engine is apart right now that these two parts are trivial. Plus, this'll take much less time than running around town trying to find a small walled 27 mm socket.
 

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Sometimes the bolt to the idler pulley is just a bit too long and it sticks out into that hole. If it does the socket won't fit through. Loosen the bolt on the idler and give that a try
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks, but it's already done. That bolt did need to be removed, but my 27mm socket was impact rated and therefore slightly more beefy. It was about 1 mm too big. I ended up removing the bracket.
 
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