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Wow...a weird one for sure. But, good news if timing is OK and cover doesn’t have to come off.

A seized PS pump should have shredded the belt for sure, but if the engine was only idling when it seized then maybe it was enough to stall it? Will it crank now?
I recall the engine died while I was in the process of changing gears.

Question
Should I crank the engine without a valve cover or should I put cover, DIC, Spark plugs, etc, and then start it?
 

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As long as you can turn the crank pulley around a half dozen times with no resistance you can just put it back together. you can even run the engine for a short amount of time without the serpentine belt but remember that drives the water pump so for anything more than about a minute the engine will overheat. But you can at least see that it works.
 

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As long as you can turn the crank pulley around a half dozen times with no resistance you can just put it back together. you can even run the engine for a short amount of time without the serpentine belt but remember that drives the water pump so for anything more than about a minute the engine will overheat. But you can at least see that it works.
Will need to order a valve cover gasket (with anaerobic sealant), a drive belt and a PS pump w/pulley before I can test it further. The Crankshaft turns with no resistance and there are no check engine codes which gives me the confidence that everything should be ok. :)
 

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Thanks Mariner.
Waiting for the parts to arrive. Cant wait to put it together. I think I had two issues from the very beginning, a stretched chain and a bad PS pulley that was overlooked.
I think the moral of this experience is NOT to assume that the engine noise comes from the timing chain before disconnecting the drive belt.

Last year I changed the two PS lines and I thought I changed the PS fluid. After 12000 miles, fluid looks dirty and old.
Time to check a good forum discussion on flushing the fluid to extend life of the new pump.
 

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I did not find a nice discussion on flushing PS fluid. Typically the process on most cars is the following :
  • Remove the return line (bottom of the reservoir)
  • Plug the reservoir bottom hole (this is the hole that the return line connect to)
  • Fill the reservoir with clean fluid
  • Turn wheel in both directions to flush out old fluid while keeping reservoir full at all times.
Is there a more effective process?
There is a something looking like a baffle or filter in the bottom of the reservoir. Does anyone know what it is?
 

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That sounds like the same process I used in my NG900. Beware, though, that the fluid pressure can be very high, and the pump can empty the system in moments. I put the return hose into an empty 2-liter soda bottle, and the pressure caused the hose to fly out and spray power steering fluid everywhere. I wedged it in with a screwdriver the next time, so the hose stayed put, but the bottle filled up a lot faster than I expected it to, and I ran the system dry for a moment. No lasting harm was done, though.
 

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Jeremy, were you running the engine when you flushed the fluid?
I have done it on other cars with the engine Off and ignition On and the pressure is manageable.
 

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What I did was unbolt the reservoir (one 10mm bolt), flipped it on its side so the return line nipple is facing up, put the return hose in to any container, have a helper start the engine for 3-5 seconds (keeping in mind the whole system has something like 1.1 quarts) and then shut it off quickly. Then refill the reservoir, have your helper start the engine, and add more fluid as it gets drained in. Probably won't flush everything, but it'll get most of it

If you're worried about running things dry you can just suck the fluid out of the reservoir with a turkey baster and refill, then do the same thing 2-3 more times after driving it

The pump will be noisy if there is air in it but just let the engine run with the reservoir cap off and turn the wheel left to right for a little bit
 

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What I did was unbolt the reservoir (one 10mm bolt), flipped it on its side so the return line nipple is facing up, put the return hose in to any container, have a helper start the engine for 3-5 seconds (keeping in mind the whole system has something like 1.1 quarts) and then shut it off quickly. Then refill the reservoir, have your helper start the engine, and add more fluid as it gets drained in. Probably won't flush everything, but it'll get most of it

If you're worried about running things dry you can just suck the fluid out of the reservoir with a turkey baster and refill, then do the same thing 2-3 more times after driving it

The pump will be noisy if there is air in it but just let the engine run with the reservoir cap off and turn the wheel left to right for a little bit
Good suggestions.
I recall the reservoir always appeared to be under pressure. That surprised me because the cap has a vent hole and should not allow any pressure buildup.
 

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Just a note regarding power steering fluid: If left on a painted surface it will ruin the paint, BUT power steering fluid is water soluble a stream of water from a hose or pail will decontaminate any surface.
.
 

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Gentlemen,
Replaced PS, flushed fluid and put it back together. Started right away and there are no engine sounds. I will never know if the culprit of the original issue was the Chain or the PS pulley. But at any rate the issues are fixed and its all in the past.
Now i need to fix the weird suspension problems....
 
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