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There's one bolt and one stud (nut) between the tranny and the cover...see below...



 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I never expected that stud. *******s!

So, the bolt in question is the one coming from the bottom between the two 10mm bolts holding the oil pump?
 

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I never expected that stud. *******s
That one is unexpected and makes removal of the T.C. cover very difficult unless you have the head or tranny off at the same time.

So, the bolt in question is the one coming from the bottom between the two 10mm bolts holding the oil pump?
Yep, that's the one...

I have done the oil pump o-ring/crank seal with the engine in the car, but when I did the timing chain and guides, I fortunately had the engine out of the car. Good Luck!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That one is unexpected and makes removal of the T.C. cover very difficult unless you have the head or tranny off at the same time.
Good thing the car is currently headless. So, you pull it up a bit to clear the stud and the forward?

I have done the oil pump o-ring/crank seal with the engine in the car, but when I did the timing chain and guides, I fortunately had the engine out of the car. Good Luck!!
Thanks. We will find pretty soon how insane it will be. I hope I am past the hard part; once the cover is out I would think the chain and guides would be much easier. Now, how do you know when to replace the sprocket? I bought a replacement one. Since it is Scantech brand, I wonder if it will not shatter in 38941.2 pieces... :eek:
 

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So, you pull it up a bit to clear the stud and the forward?
Yep, you got it. You probably already know this, but remove the oil pump cover and pump gears before trying to pull it up and tilting the top away from the engine. This will give you the extra clearance around the crankshaft you'll need. Just a few more tips...IIRC, there are at least 2 long bolts through the water pump housing that also secure the timing cover to the block. There are also varying bolt lengths and sizes throughout the operation, so you'll have to keep them separated/oriented to how they go back in. I used 518 (liberally as you can see :cheesy:) to seal the timing cover/block to the tranny. I used the 2 paper timing cover gaskets with no extra 518 for the cover and that has worked well for me, but as always, YMMV.

Now, how do you know when to replace the sprocket? I bought a replacement one. Since it is Scantech brand, I wonder if it will not shatter in 38941.2 pieces... :eek:
I don't have a clue what the signs are to determine sprocket replacement. All cams and crank sprockets "looked" good to my untrained eye, the teeth were not really pointy or worn on one side, and I didn't have new ones laying around to put in. Hopefully someone with a lot more experience will weigh in on this one...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Yep, you got it. You probably already know this, but remove the oil pump cover and pump gears before trying to pull it up and tilting the top away from the engine. This will give you the extra clearance around the crankshaft you'll need.
Oh, so I have to tilt the top away from the engine and then pull it up... until I clear the stud. And then I can remove it. In that case, I am stuck right there. Looking at your picture,


It seems there is *something* over the crankshaft that grabs the oil pump, which is not shown in the picture above. What is that and how to remove it? It seems I need to take that out before I pull the cover; am I right? Or, now I come to think, is just the crank sprocket?
 

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It seems there is *something* over the crankshaft that grabs the oil pump, which is not shown in the picture above. What is that and how to remove it? It seems I need to take that out before I pull the cover; am I right? Or, now I come to think, is just the crank sprocket?
*something*?? The only "something" that isn't shown there is the crank pulley and the round crank pulley spacer. I put the crank bolt back in as you can see, just to facilitate turning the engine via the bolt.
Maybe I'm dense, but are you talking about the key on the crank? If so, the pump should just slide off...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok, this is what I saw:

I think that is the timing chain sprocket, right? In any case, I still do not know what is holding the cover in place. On the waterpump side of the timing cover I have a gap all the way to the bottom, but I don't seem to have much of a gap on the exhaust side. Could it just be the gasket? If so, I just do not know how much more aggressive I will have to be to help the cover break free... understand I just want to be careful. :cheesy:

Also, from what I read here, I have to tilt the top of the cover away to break it free from the gasket and give enough room so it can be lifted off the stud on the bottom. Is that right or it is the other way around (lift it and then tilt it)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Here is an update: using a phenolic wedge, I was able to break the seal all the way on the waterpump side,

and now have a gap that is big enough for me to see the alignment pin on that side that is about 1in below the top of the engine mount. On the exhaust side, I was not that successful,

I do not know if it is because of the stud on the bottom (how much freeplay is there?) but I can run my wedge from the top down to the alignment pin on this side, but not below it.
 

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Just curious, but it appears (because of your other thread about getting the lower sprocket off) that you got the timing cover off of the engine. How did you do it, in the end? I'd sure like to know for posterity's sake, and in case I have to do mine at some point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well, thanks to some enlightment at saabrally (I would post the link but they seem to be down right now), I found out that all I had left to do was to remove the bloody stud. So, I needed to double nut it but there was no way I could fit two normal thickness ones. Therefore I had to do some attitude adjustment,

To a properly sized nut until it lost enough fat around its waist,

Of course I also modified a spare 13mm wrench so it was the same height as the thinner nut. Once that was done, removing the stud was easy.

So, I used the same phenolic wedge I have been playing with to pull the cover away from the block.

How easy it was to do it this time was an indicator of how important it was to make the stud go away. I did find out the stud hole on the transmission goes all the way to the cavity the differential sits in. That does concern me about metal shavings falling down there. In any case, that was it. Now it is a matter of cleaning the cover,

replacing parts, and putting it all back in.
 

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So, WHY did SAAB decide to put a stud there??? Why not just another plain bolt, if you can get it out with the double-nut method?
 

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Not to start another thread on an issue that's all here -
I've tried to remove the timing chain cover -> gearbox stud with my engine in situ,,
I gave up after half a day, I couldn't get a turn on the nut, never mind start moving the stud with a locknut in place.

I modified a 13mm spanner but can only manage to continue rounding out the shoulders of the nut..
I use a mirror to see where I'm going ..
Has anyone any good ideas for removal of this stud with the engine installed... ?
I don't want to take the engine out simply for this -
I have an oil leak at the top of the TC Cover that has rendered the car undriveable....
Any help would be appreciated..
 

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I've never had any trouble removing it with mini Vise-Grips.
 

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Gutsy! I did timing cover removal with engine in situ on my 8 valve. I used a short 12/13 mm spanner. It took a while but Mir came off. Use plenty of penetrating oil to help. Mini vise grips is a great idea.

It's an immensely hard job that took me 3 days pretty much. Read my thread in tutorials over in saabworld if you think it will help.

Good luck. That stud is one of the easy parts. There are many more challenges to come. :)
 

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... That stud is one of the easy parts. There are many more challenges to come. :)
... you've just depressed me.. :)

I already have your write-up from SaabWorld on the removal - thanks for that!
Sometimes I think I'll yet be removing that engine ...
James
 
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