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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone. I'm in the middle of replacing my timing belt on a 2000 9-5 3.0. The tensioner pulley bearing was shot and and was making a rattling noise. I ordered a new kit and was going to line up the camshafts to the respective markings on the timing belt cover before removing the belt but when I turned the crankshaft the belt was too loose to move the camshafts causing the belt to slip. I basically rotated the crankshaft a little but the camshafts didn't move. So I retightened the tensioner pulley as best I could and was able to rotate the camshafts to their markings. But now the crankshaft is not TDC and the alignment mark is not pointing straight down anymore. Can someone tell me how to line them back up? I do have the the timing belt tool once I get the marks aligned properly. I just didn't want to remove the old belt until I find out more info. Thank you.
 

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Your timing kit comes with a crank alignment tool. Fit it to the crank's irregularly-shaped flange with the damper-pulley removed and tighten the thumbscrew. The arm joins up with the water pump flange. Turn the crank by reinstalling the E55 bolt and using the socket supplied with the kit.

Do not turn the crank any more than necessary to time it. If you encounter the slightest bit of resistance, stop. It's an interference engine.

Time the front bank to the crankshaft, then set the rear bank. Once completed, set the tensioner. They are all on eccentrics.

Hopefully you bought a timing kit from Gates or ContiTech with new idlers. It's not worth doing without them.

Replace the water pump while you're in there. Apply RTV in a thin layer to the O-ring upon installation.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for your reply! I do have a Gates kit and new water pump and plan on replacing the front crankshaft seal before I start the timing. However, if I remove the belt, can I turn the crankshaft CCW back so the TDC line is pointing straight down? Its only off by about 45 degrees.
 

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Sure. Slip the damper back on and give it a good twist CCW. Go slightly beyond where it aligns and then go CW back into position using the crank bolt with a long ratchet. That will be more precise than by hand- approaching the proper position with a tool, vice your hands.

Move the crank gently regardless. If the cams weren't locked in place before the belt was removed, they can spring out of position. Check the sprocket marks against the steel belt cover marks to be sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Awesome. Thanks! I'm about to remove the crankshaft gear and replace the seal. Im assuming I can just lock everything in place, replace the seal, and install the gear exactly where I removed it? Just want to make sure I don't have to do anything out of the ordinary.
 
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