SaabCentral Forums banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2002 saab 9-3 with 105k miles. 2.0l motor. i noticed a ticking noise from the motor. i added some oil maybe thinking it could be a little low but didnt seem the solution. ive been countless people say on saab forms its a rod knock. but if it was a rod knock i wouldnt have just completed a 100 mile drive at 85mph. could this be bad lifters? About to get an oil change to see if that helps
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
176 Posts
Post a video and someone can tell you.

On the internet it is always headgaskets, rod knocks, and worn thrust bearings. Just like Webmd is always cancer.

No matter the forum, the issue is a major fault costing thousands.

Honestly, the engine may not even be what's making the noise.

Rod knock is pretty distinctive. If it goes "knock knock knock" as the engine slows down after reving kinda like a rattle slowing down and is consistant as you drive it's a rod.

You can youtube a chevy V8 doing it and once you hear it, you know.

Or... If it's tapping at start up, and idle only... Maybe it's lifters. But Saab lifters arent a design known to float.

If its consistant and above idle and not "ratteling" as you slow down it can be 10 different things.

If it sounds like a buzz as the engine slows down its a chain.

You can youtube lifter noise, etc. Miattas do it a lot and sound like saabs IMHO.

If it's a rod... You need a new engine.

If its not... Look at your dipstick and as much as you can throw in up to a quart of ATF in the oil and drive it 20 minutes or so before changing the oil.

Change it to a gf6/dexos synthetic.

If between those two it doesnt quite down in 1000 miles or so the lifters need to be replaced or it isn't lifters.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Post a video and someone ca tell you.

The internet is always headgaskets, rod knocks, and worn thrust bearings. Just like Webmd is always cancer.

You engine may not even be what's making the noise.

Rod knock is pretty distinctive. If it goes "knock knock knock" as the engine slows down after reving kinda like a rattle slowing down and is consistant as you drive it's a rod.

You can youtube a chevy V8 doing it and once you hear it, you know.

Or... If it's tapping at start up, and idle only... Maybe its lifters.

Of its consistant and above idle and not "ratteling" as you slow down it can be 10 different things.

If it sounds like a buzz as the engine slows down its a chain.

You can youtube lifter noise, etc. Miattas do it a lot and sound like saabs IMHO.

If it's a rod... You need a new engine.

If its not... Look at your dipstick and as much as you can throw in up to a quart of ATF in the oil and drive it 20 minutes or so before changing the oil.

Change it to a gf6/dexos synthetic.

If between those two it doesnt quite down the lifters need to be replaced or it isn't lifters.
how do i post a video
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Post a video and someone ca tell you.

The internet is always headgaskets, rod knocks, and worn thrust bearings. Just like Webmd is always cancer.

You engine may not even be what's making the noise.

Rod knock is pretty distinctive. If it goes "knock knock knock" as the engine slows down after reving kinda like a rattle slowing down and is consistant as you drive it's a rod.

You can youtube a chevy V8 doing it and once you hear it, you know.

Or... If it's tapping at start up, and idle only... Maybe its lifters.

Of its consistant and above idle and not "ratteling" as you slow down it can be 10 different things.

If it sounds like a buzz as the engine slows down its a chain.

You can youtube lifter noise, etc. Miattas do it a lot and sound like saabs IMHO.

If it's a rod... You need a new engine.

If its not... Look at your dipstick and as much as you can throw in up to a quart of ATF in the oil and drive it 20 minutes or so before changing the oil.

Change it to a gf6/dexos synthetic.

If between those two it doesnt quite down the lifters need to be replaced or it isn't lifters.
thank for all that info
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Post a video and someone can tell you.

On the internet it is always headgaskets, rod knocks, and worn thrust bearings. Just like Webmd is always cancer.

No matter the forum, the issue is a major fault costing thousands.

Honestly, the engine may not even be what's making the noise.

Rod knock is pretty distinctive. If it goes "knock knock knock" as the engine slows down after reving kinda like a rattle slowing down and is consistant as you drive it's a rod.

You can youtube a chevy V8 doing it and once you hear it, you know.

Or... If it's tapping at start up, and idle only... Maybe it's lifters. But Saab lifters arent a design known to float.

If its consistant and above idle and not "ratteling" as you slow down it can be 10 different things.

If it sounds like a buzz as the engine slows down its a chain.

You can youtube lifter noise, etc. Miattas do it a lot and sound like saabs IMHO.

If it's a rod... You need a new engine.

If its not... Look at your dipstick and as much as you can throw in up to a quart of ATF in the oil and drive it 20 minutes or so before changing the oil.

Change it to a gf6/dexos synthetic.

If between those two it doesnt quite down in 1000 miles or so the lifters need to be replaced or it isn't lifters.
how do lifters cost to replace
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
176 Posts
how do lifters cost to replace
Depends.

The lifters are cheap themselves. They can be the sole issue and replacing them fixes it.

YetI would NOT "shotgun in" lifters. AKA change them thinking it will fix an issue without checking/ changing more than just the bad one.

They tend to "wear in" to their spots and you can sometimes have accelerated wear caused by changing them.

Sometimes letting them be noisy is best if its minor. Just use thicker oil.

Worst case... if they damaged the cam or valves they can even be quite pricey to fix.

Ranges $100 to $1300 in a shop.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
299 Posts
Another culprit of engine ticking, or you think it's your engine but it's actually the evap purge valve I know on my car I have an aftermarket intake and the metal shroud where it's mounted to would send ticking vibrations that i could hear at idle, just something to check
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Another culprit of engine ticking, or you think it's your engine but it's actually the evap purge valve I know on my car I have an aftermarket intake and the metal shroud where it's mounted to would send ticking vibrations that i could hear at idle, just something to check
where is evap purge valve?
 

·
Registered
03 vert se-sports pkg, 01 viggen vert
Joined
·
393 Posts
Another culprit of engine ticking, or you think it's your engine but it's actually the evap purge valve I know on my car I have an aftermarket intake and the metal shroud where it's mounted to would send ticking vibrations that i could hear at idle, just something to check
Mime was doing that. Took a while to figure it out. It still worked but was very loud sitting inside the car at idle
 

·
Registered
2000 Saab 9-3S
Joined
·
15 Posts
Change it to a gf6/dexos synthetic.
At the risk of being the cause of another oil-war, is that the factory recommendation?

My understanding is the Dexos oil specifications (and other "energy conserving" grades) is they're more about fuel economy than shear stability, or being suitable for longer drain intervals. Your ACEA A3/B4 oils have the shear stability (helpful with the stress a turbo has on such a tiny little sump of oil) and ability for long drain interval (which is ill-advised on Saabs - although the detergent package should help with keeping things clean).

In the BMW world, where I spent a lot of the last decade, it was quite common to see threads like "I Used 5w-30 like the manual says and now my car sounds like marbles in a can!". It would turn out they had used a 5w-30 marked as "energy conserving" (ILSAC/Dexos) rather than one meeting the ACEA A3/B4, and more stringent BMW LongLife standard; in terms of oils in the -30 weight, the latter was at the thick end of that grade.

I'm not sure how the pickup screen and sludge fiasco on the B205 motors affects all this either.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
176 Posts
At the risk of being the cause of another oil-war, is that the factory recommendation?

My understanding is the Dexos oil specifications (and other "energy conserving" grades) is they're more about fuel economy than shear stability, or being suitable for longer drain intervals. Your ACEA A3/B4 oils have the shear stability (helpful with the stress a turbo has on such a tiny little sump of oil) and ability for long drain interval (which is ill-advised on Saabs - although the detergent package should help with keeping things clean).

In the BMW world, where I spent a lot of the last decade, it was quite common to see threads like "I Used 5w-30 like the manual says and now my car sounds like marbles in a can!". It would turn out they had used a 5w-30 marked as "energy conserving" (ILSAC/Dexos) rather than one meeting the ACEA A3/B4, and more stringent BMW LongLife standard; in terms of oils in the -30 weight, the latter was at the thick end of that grade.

I'm not sure how the pickup screen and sludge fiasco on the B205 motors affects all this either.
Us americans enjoy or oil wars!

For me, its what they tell me in the ASE liturature.

Gf6 is turbo orientated to prevent LSPI. Which for a turbo engine is the main killer. I would say for the LSPI protection any shearing trade off (gf-5 is also satisfied by gf-6a fully though, so going for an old standard doesn't really work as the oil exceeds theo ld standard and passes all its test... PLUS the gf-6 test that were added. It's a cumulative standard)... Is warranted.

It will survive in a turbo longer, and on old apps it is NOT drain interval as gf6 specifically says it does not extend them.

It also was formulated to specifically preserve chain life/ work with low pressure rings that are more varnish sensative than high pressure/ stop some coking with DI.

In a 2000s varnished engine running gf6 will clean it in a few thousand miles and it won't ever clog things because it's got way better suspension properties. It puts the crud in the drain pain.

The economy is part lubricity. A better lube makes an engine run faster. You can hear a motor switched tick up rpms a bit.

Basically its the same detergent package as GF-5 but with magnesium instead of calcium.

Gf6 was a "problem solver" oil more than many others; dexos was developed because GM was pushing the envelope already.

On this one...

"When they descovered wheat... Some of the ancients still insisted on eating acorns..."

But seriously, if its like the 97 2.0 (I doubt they updated much) my manual just says 5-30 or use synthetic if 10-30. They then put it in the gear box too originally! Saab did not seem to worried on it.

From my experience working on more german cars than anything... BMWs kinda go to pot when you baby them anyways. But when I've seen oil issues, its always dino bones not synthetics/ long drain used to get many brands just like extended coolant... Because people popped in green.

Using the absolute wrong stuff is different than using a high end when the manual wants "generic minimum"

Saabs turbos are very much gen1-2 in tunning. All the lag... Or its sweedish LAAG

BUT that said, I'm old enough to remember when upgrading was an issue. You cant run modern oils on flat tappets without zinc which was pulled "for smog" as it hurts the cat.

The thing being... The word "smog" is the evil demon that old birds don't get lead to using the EGR and such to cool the chamber and get way better power today then back then could dream of.

I swear a 120hp v8 was made that way on purpose anyways.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top