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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

My Saab 9-3 2.0 B205R from 2000 wont start.
A mechanic looked at it and noticed he heard some strange noises coming from the throttle body sensor.
Im looking for a used good working one and am curious if this part nr is the right one for the type of engine.

Saab 91 88 186

Is there some diy or step by step info to replace it?
Has it to be relearned or does the ecu recognize the new part?

With the kindest regards,

Mark
 

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I can't think of anything on the throttle body that won't make the car not start, Fuel, DIC good plugs CPS thats it, the throttle body may make it not run well but not start. Did the mechanic come to this conclusion on his own or thru the use of a TECH2?
 

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My knowledge of the 9188186 - no external sensors. I wonder whether the limp mode solenoid on the back is buzzing? all the stuff that acts as sensors is buried inside. The other thought - some sort of dramatic failure mode going on with the electromagnet, under the plastic cover.

You'd have to remove the TB as most of the 8 clips holding the plastic cover on are inaccessible with the TB on the engine. Then carefully remove the cover, breaking as few of the clips as possible, and hoping the rubber gasket will cooperate and go back into place (it won't if its swollen and bulging out of the clips). Then connect the power supply and see if it exhibits any strange behaviour.

The ECU will recognise a replacement TB. No marrying required. Recommended to disconnect the battery during the swap but I never did (because I hadn't heard that advice!) and I've done it a few times on the 9-5 (same TB).

The removal will be in the Workshop Info System at www.saabwisonline.com but basically its:

Remove throttle cable cam cover (2 x 10 mm bolts, one of which can be just loosened)

Disconnect power from TB.

Air intake pipe off.

Vac tubes and water pipes off the front (use pipe clips to reduce water loss).

3 x 10 mm bolts hold TB to the intake manifold.

Check base o-ring is still in place and cover the intake manifold to prevent dropping anything in.

Evap tube to the rear of the TB is easier to remove once the TB is lying on its side, as the pipe clip is inaccessible until then, also the connector for the limp solenoid.

To remove the plastic cover I use 8 pieces of tin can, slipping one under each clip to keep it released. Drink can aluminium might be strong enough. Warm conditions make the plastic easier to bend.

Ensuring your fingers are nowhere near the throttle plate, give it electrics and see if it makes a noise/vibrates.

Early versions of the '186 TB suffered from wiring insulation breakdown where the wires go around the air duct from one side to the other, joining the two potentiometers. I have seen a fix on here involving removing the electromagnet unit and sliding new insulation sleeves down over each wire.

The TB base o-ring is generally long-lived but the top one frequently gets compressed and distorted. For a few $ a new o-ring is a good idea. Check yours - the cross-section should be round, and might be flattened.
 

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9188186 will fit to your car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you guys for all the comments.
Tomorrow someone is coming with:

Spare DI Cassette
Spare crankshaft sensor
Spare battery
Spare throttle body sensor
Spare alternator
Tech2

So will let you know tomorrow what the outcome is.

With the kindest regards,

Mark
 

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@SaabB205R As you have a 2000 like mine, you might want to quickly check the positive nut on the starter motor. There was a WIS note about it, if you're having issues starting. I encountered this recently.
Welcome to Saab Central.
 

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I’d start with the tech2 first as it may lead you to the main issue.
 
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Glad to hear it, The mechanic you took the car to was he a Saab guy ? or just run of the mill auto shop, It would have been a very expensive rabbit hole going down starting with the throttle body. Come here from now on
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The guys today noticed theres no sprak.
First changed the cps which didnt change, then the DI Cassette and fired up right away.
Tech2 no codes afterwards👍

Thanks guys😁
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Oh, i forgot to mention the mechanic noticed the washer is missing between the crankshaft sensor and the engine surface.
So thats need to be done, because it will leak at some point me was told....

With the kindest regards.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Ah, this morning engine light (yellow) came on.
I noticed the coolingwater temperature dial stay at zero (cold over here, about 4 degrees celsius) after 40km of driving , but when car is running some time at idle, not driving but just engine running, the temperature dial is rising to normal.
Will a broken thermostat cause the engine light?
I see there are 2 thermostat versions, a 89 degrees celsius version and a 82 degrees celsius.
Which one do i need?

With the kindest regards.

 

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Use the tech 2 for the cel . I dont belive its related to your thermostat issue ( if you do have a bad thermo as opposed a dud sensor or flukey gauage ) uSE 89c for your new thermo , If in doubt remove it and bench test on your cook top ...
( boil water in pan with thermo immersed and observe movement
You should be achieving Normal range on the gauge regardless of ambient temps ( be they Hot or cold).

The tech 2 can also read the actual coolant temp , albeit that would be reliant on the sensor being correct .
 

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What Aussie said, if your thermostat is stuck open it may move up at idle in the driveway and fall right off when driving in this kind of cold weather, Replace the thermostat, take the overfill hose off the bottle and use an air nozzle to lightly put air in the system with the overfill hose in a gallon jug. that way you don't need to crawl under the car looking for the drain and it only takes a couple minutes. 2 bolts on the housing new gasket and your off, refill coolant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks guys for the info.
When i just remove the hose or just remove the thermostat and its housing, is there a lot of coolant going out of it? Or not adviseable because of air going in the system?

With the kindest regards,

Mark
 

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if you do the air method until no more coolant comes out ,(about 3/4 of a gallon) you won't have any coolant in the upper engine, a few drops will come out when you pull the thermostat hose.
 
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