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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I know this subject has been beaten to death, but I'm a moron when it comes to understanding cars so I could use some help.

Sometimes my car starts fine, sometimes it doesn't start at all with no engine turnover, or will 20 minutes later, or the next day. When it won't start I hear a loud "click click, short pause, click click, short pause, etc., emanating from the engine area. The headlights come on strongly as I turn the key, then shut off as the key turn reaches the end of its' rotation where you feel a little resistance against your hand (the 'on' position?), which I have read here suggests the ignition module is good. The lights don't dim at all during ignition.

Also, occasionally the SID does display the 'insert key and turn again' statement but none of the other messages folks here have reported getting which could indicate a CIM failure (according to other threads). The clock does go blank however, and needs to be reset each time.

There seems to be lots of power for everything else. The headlights are bright, stereo and electric seats are fine, etc., etc.. The 2 year old battery tested fine at the service centre yesterday, though the guy thinks I should push the battery connection thingies down more, which I do. No improvement.

I have read all of the similar threads and, per some of these, it seems it wouldn't be the solenoid as that is the clicking that I hear and the headlights turn off as I'm holding the key in the 'on' position.

The problem is occurring more frequently as time goes by. Any thoughts? Starter? Alternator? One thread mentioned a corroded wire that goes from somewhere to somewhere else. Seems a new battery is the usual suggestion, but that seems unlikely here.

The dude (and I mean dude) who came by as I was staring at the engine bay in the supermarket parking lot today said I might try spraying something on the solenoid for some reason, and then hits me up for a couple of bucks for some 'soup'. He then suggest switching the key back and forth a few times, and whatdyaknow, it starts. Before I buy spray stuff, any other thoughts?

Your help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

Blair
 

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Have you double checked the connections to the battery? Could possibly be a bad ground connection. Do the terminals have any corrosion residue?
 

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well it definitely has something to do with the battery and/or the connections if the clock is resetting.. i'd check the negative wire for corrosion and make sure it is clean
 

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Not necessarily

I had exact same issues. U need to get someone to read your codes with tech 2. My problem was a bad connection between the tcs, and stability control modules. I'm not saying thats what is going on, but I'm telling you to have the codes read from tech 2.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Have you double checked the connections to the battery? Could possibly be a bad ground connection. Do the terminals have any corrosion residue?
well it definitely has something to do with the battery and/or the connections if the clock is resetting.. i'd check the negative wire for corrosion and make sure it is clean
Roger, found the pics and will check and then report today. Brunch first, though.

Thanks for hints.

Blair
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok, I removed the battery and box, and the front driver side wheel (did I need to?) and took some pics. Which cables should I be looking at? I don't see one going to the starter, though I can't really say I know what the starter looks like. Any thoughts?

I did scrub the battery and terminals but didn't really see any noticeable corrosion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok, I removed the battery and box, and the front driver side wheel (did I need to?) and took some pics. Which cables should I be looking at? I don't see one going to the starter, though I can't really say I know what the starter looks like. Any thoughts?

I did scrub the battery and terminals but didn't really see any noticeable corrosion.
Any thoughts? I cleaned the terminals and attachments thought they looked fine, and the car is not starting. Which cable is the ground?

I'm wondering if I need to do this if ground isn't the problem (assuming I find the ground!).

I'd appreciate any more help/ suggestions.

Thanks.
 

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I'll bet even money it's the battery, I've had to replace my battery every two years no matter which brand I buy. Recently had one go out in 3 months, bad cell which did not show up until they did a load test on the battery after charging it. Every time the lights and ets worked but then the 'click, click' of not enough 'juice' to turn it over. The short drives don't allow enough time for recharging and the then the dreaded 'click', as soon as the battery is recharged it's OK. Now I have a recharging unit with a trickle down charge at home.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'll bet even money it's the battery, I've had to replace my battery every two years no matter which brand I buy. Recently had one go out in 3 months, bad cell which did not show up until they did a load test on the battery after charging it. Every time the lights and ets worked but then the 'click, click' of not enough 'juice' to turn it over. The short drives don't allow enough time for recharging and the then the dreaded 'click', as soon as the battery is recharged it's OK. Now I have a recharging unit with a trickle down charge at home.
Even if it tested OK at the service centre?
 

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Even if it tested OK at the service centre?
Did they do a load test? Not the clip it to the machine and watch the dial move test. They need to check out the amount of amperage for cold starts and heavy load starts. I've found my new battery at less than 50% after running around all day on short trips. If I drive my car for a 100 miles or so the charge is around 90-98% charged. I've had a few times of not charging and driving for a few days of short trips and when I hooked it up to the recharger and it's at 15%.
 
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