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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well... I was hoping for something simple, but I think I now have a major project on my hands.

On my 2000, 9-3SE I pulled the oil pan and found carnage. The rod has sheared at the connection to the crankshaft and I've got all kinds of good junk in the pan, including either a balance chain guide or timing guide. I bought it knowing there was an engine problem and now I have my answer as to what. I'm still very happy with this car though...it is an amazingly good condition and only has 118k

After reading this post:

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=93589&highlight=engine+knock

I'm inspired to do a complete engine overhaul. It would be a first for me and definitely a learning experience, but I have a garage and a medium high level of mechanical ability, and I don't currently need this car for a daily driver....so why not? I priced out parts last night and including clutch I'm looking at about $1400 + machine shop and supplies. A used engine is going to cost me probably that much or more...so why not rebuild it and have a good basically new engine that will hopefully last for a couple hundred thousand miles. The chassis is defiantly worth saving.

Here are some pics of the internals....I'm going to try and chronicle my rebuild...I'm sure it will take a couple of months due to time and $$.
 

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If the crankshaft is gouged, it may need to be welded and reground, or a used engine may be in order since a new crank is around $2-k. Let us know how the work goes... Ron
 

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Ahhh my EYES! Damn, the carnage! Did the engine even run? How did this failure go unnoticed?
Good luck to ya!
-Cm
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sounds like a formidable project. Why don't you buy a good used engine from a wrecked car?
I thought about that...but since I would like to turn this into a daily driver, I would feel better if I just rebuilt it. I think the cost would probably be similar ...not counting my labor of course. So far the cheapest low mileage engine I've found is $2200. If I rebuild, I would know the seals, bearings, rings, valves, timing chain, and clutch are all in tip top shape.

If the crankshaft is indeed shot, then I probably will go the used engine route...but most importantly, I've never rebuilt an engine before and I think this would be a good candidate. I will know more once I pull it and start digging as to if this engine is salvageable or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ahhh my EYES! Damn, the carnage! Did the engine even run? How did this failure go unnoticed?
Good luck to ya!
-Cm
It didn't go unnoticed...the PO said he heard a loud bang and immediately pulled over and had it towed. I had not heard it run, but just heard the engine turn over with the starter and knew something was terribly wrong. I bought it expecting to put an engine in it....here's a link to the details....

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=177633
 

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A refresh/rebuild is pretty cost effective, especially if the crank is OK.

Let me know if you need rods. I have a set of used T7 pistons from an 01 SE that I intended to use for a project and went in another direction.
 

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This sort of DIY ethic makes me smile. That is... a series of horrendous pictures. But, others have done exactly what you you would like to do and these forums have a wealth of knowledge. Best of luck, and I can't wait to see your rebuild in progress.
 

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crank

hey, if turns out you need a crank, let me know, I've got a good one for $150 (i'll throw in a rod too) plus shipping, if you want the short block (good for rebuild, i'd put new bearings and rings in it) $250 plus shipping (its out of a 99 93, same block, dif head :) if you want, you can shoot me email at [email protected], or jus msg me hear, good luck :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the words of encouragement. Orka69 & Mike...I may be PM'ing you once I have the engine out and see what kind of condition it is in. Hopefully the block and crank are in good condition, but I will defiantly be needing some pistons/rods. I noticed on GenuineSaab.com that there are three different pistons for this car...A, AB, or C. I think mine are C's since that is stamped on the connecting rod.

I will probably start on this project in a couple of weeks. I've tried to find info about removing the engine/tranny in one unit, but it seems everything I've read so far includes dropping the transmission out the bottom first.

Is it possible to just remove the entire engine/transmission and separate it outside of the car?
 

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Thanks for the words of encouragement. Orka69 & Mike...I may be PM'ing you once I have the engine out and see what kind of condition it is in. Hopefully the block and crank are in good condition, but I will defiantly be needing some pistons/rods. I noticed on GenuineSaab.com that there are three different pistons for this car...A, AB, or C. I think mine are C's since that is stamped on the connecting rod.

I will probably start on this project in a couple of weeks. I've tried to find info about removing the engine/tranny in one unit, but it seems everything I've read so far includes dropping the transmission out the bottom first.

Is it possible to just remove the entire engine/transmission and separate it outside of the car?
Yes it is possible, even without removing the radiator/support, I've done it...twice. Which reminds me, when you are re-assembling everything, remember to re-install the oil plug in the block under the flywheel. ;oops: Good luck with your rebuild, it should be an excellent learning experience, and if you have any questions you know what forum to ask them.
 

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Engine/trans can come out by dropping it to the ground, (on something like plywood) and then jacking the car up a little higher and sliding it out.

If you want to take it out the top I don't think it would fit attached.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Engine/trans can come out by dropping it to the ground, (on something like plywood) and then jacking the car up a little higher and sliding it out.

If you want to take it out the top I don't think it would fit attached.
Hmm..two different schools of thought here. I would think I would have to have the car on a lift to get the engine/trans out from underneath. I don't think I have anything that could lift the car that high.

I don't see why it wouldn't fit out of the top attached. I don't see anything that would block it. I may have to tilt it pretty hard, but just from looking at the engine bay, it seems like it shouldn't be that difficult.
 

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Hmm..two different schools of thought here. I would think I would have to have the car on a lift to get the engine/trans out from underneath. I don't think I have anything that could lift the car that high.

I don't see why it wouldn't fit out of the top attached. I don't see anything that would block it. I may have to tilt it pretty hard, but just from looking at the engine bay, it seems like it shouldn't be that difficult.
Dude, it can be done. Yes, you do have to angle the timing side of the motor way up in the air, but if you rent (or own) a decent engine hoist its not an issue. I've done this... by myself. It can be put back in the same way. The motor itself has two lift points (steel plate brackets with a big circular hole) at opposite corners of the valve head. One is the steel bracket that the BPC valve secures to, the other is what the plastic intake manifold cover attaches to. If you connect a strong chain between these, you can attach your engine hoist hook to whatever link will give you the proper exit/entry angle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Well...I'm finally making headway with this project. I've got everything unhooked and will hopefully have the engine out on Saturday. I picked up a really good hoist and leveler today on Craigslist for $150...it also came with an engine stand..but I had already bought a new one...so I guess I have two now... I figured I would sell it when I'm done anyway and make my money back.

I'll have pics of the internals up once I start breaking it down...I don't feel good about this short block or crankshaft...:eek:

I decided to separate the transmission before I pulled the engine. It may be possible to pull both, but I just don't feel comfortable with it.

Instead of buying a support bar to hold the engine up while I'm pulling the trans, I'm just going to hook up one eye to the hoist and lower it down. I'll put a jackstand or jack underneath the engine when I've got the trans out so I can reconfigure the chain on the hoist and hook up the leveler to pull the engine out.

Wish me luck!
 

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I can't wait to see a picture with the timing chain cover off!

Sorry, hate to have any fun at your expense but I'm interested in what happened when the rod snapped.
 

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You should have a "load balancer" with the crane hookup... HF sells them.
This allows for a lot of controlled power plant tilting.
The factory installs the entire suspension and power plant as a unit..probably takes them 21 man-minutes, but they are set up for this.
And imagine the engineering involved to do all of this in 21 minutes...and the athleticism. :cheesy:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
You should have a "load balancer" with the crane hookup...
My hoist I picked up yesterday actually came with a balancer....and it's a pretty good one...

I hope to have the trans out tonight...and finish up the engine tomorrow morning...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Well....after a lot of cursing and a couple of busted knuckles I finally got everything out and apart. It didn't go as smoothly as I had hoped, but this is a first for me...so I have to count some of my screw ups to a learning curve.

I did figure out an easier way to remove the transmission..at least when you're planning on a complete engine removal. Just lower the entire assembly to the floor once you have everything unhooked...and yank the tranny off. Mine slid right off and it was already on the ground..so I didn't have to worry about it rolling or crashing. I was careful not to put to much pressure on the oil pan..so the lift still had about 75% of the weight on it.

I broke the bracket that holds the alternator/belt tensioner on. I had thought I had all the bolts undone, but there was one towards the back that I did not see, so when I gave the alternator a yank, it snapped the bracket. ;oops:

Also...and I don't know if I did this or if it was already this way...but when I started putting all my various parts in bins, I noticed the shifting mechanism is cracked. I did not have a hard time getting it out, but I misread the instructions about removing it and I took it off after I pulled the subframe and rear mount. So I'm thinking that when the motor lifted up it may have cracked it.

Most importantly...I am very certain that the crankshaft and shortblock are not fixable. There is some deep gouging on the journal and a bolt is stuck up in the piston wall and gouged the cylinder. Also...one of the exhaust valves on the busted cylinder appears to be bent...so looks like I'll be replacing that also. The head is so caked up with sludge, I think I will just take it all apart and do a thorough cleaning when I replace that valve. Hopefully the valve guide is ok...I'm not sure.

Definitely have my work cut out for me over the next few weeks/months. I'll have to scrounge around for that alternator bracket (there's a 99 at my local pull a part that I'm certain has one) and I'll need to find that shift linkage. Thanks to orka69, I've found a short block from a '99. I'll post more results/pics once I start working again.
 
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