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Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys, I'm off to get the new engine for my car, now I'm pretty sure a lot of you have performed the swap, can some of you give me some pointers as to what and what not to do while I've the engine bay empty, what I should replace and really dont have to? I'm taking the existing tranny from mine and putting on the new block, so I gather the seal for these two parts will be neccessary, anything else????Everything elseis mounted on the engine I'm getting except for the turbo unit and I'm also getting the distributor,someone told me the distributor from my 85 16V will not fit many other earlier models
Thanks guys
 

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There are loads of things - hopefully people here will make you a nice big list.

There is one thing I would highly, highly recommend..


DEPRESS AND SECURE THE CLUTCH IN THE RETRACTED POSITION BEFORE REMOVING THE ENGINE FROM THE ENGINE BAY :lol:

Otherwise you will have to go through the pain of trying to press back all those individual fingers on the clutch pressure plate so you can insert the special Saab tool number(piece flexible wire) into the clutch pressure plate to keep it depressed.

If you disconnect the clutch cylinder from the system you will need to depress the clutch manually... :cry:

You need to depress the clutch as part of the engine/transmission separation phase. Good luck... :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I already took out the old motor and tranny assembly, but what a hard time I had removing the hydrolic clutch cylinder from between the clutch plate and drive chain housing,also I should mention that probably the hardest thing to get at was the removal of the clutches hydraulic line, not much place to get a wrench in
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I had to crack the engine from it's tranny to get the bloody thing to come off, the hydraulic throw out bearing
 

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I'm doing a tranny swap in a couple of weeks. Some of the things I'm changing while engine is out:
- entire clutch system
- motor mounts
- crank pulley
- timing chain and tensioner
- control arm bushings (apparently the left upper one can only be done with engine out)
- alternator mount bushings
- lower rad hose

If you have any oil leaks they will be much easier to find and fix with engine out.

Good luck with your swap!
 

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The 16V cars also have a rubber layer in the crank pulley that breaks down with age.

Early symptom is a shriek when first starting engine. (MANY posts in this Forum have been about this noise.)

If left to deteriorate, the rubber will quit bonding the crank pulley to its hub and it, plus all the belts, will produce a flailing, tangled mess with nasty consequences.
 

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Change the power steering rack if it needs or might need to be changed. If the engine is out it cuts the job time down by like half at least. Also cuts the p-ssed-off facter down to almost nothing compared to doing it while engine is in.

Ian
 

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The rubber piece is a layer built into the crank pulley itself, between the pulley hub and outer part. It's there for vibration-damping purposes. You can see it if you look at the front of a pulley --it's a dark band about 1/8 inch wide.

Don't confuse this with the (replaceable) oil seal, in the oil-pump case, through which the shank of the crank pulley passes when it's slid onto the nose of the crank.
 
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