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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,
I have a low km 2001 9-3.
I decided I wanted to renew the thermostat.
When I did the replacement, I did not line the vent upwards, is that a big issue? Should I re-do it and make sure it is up?

Also, when I was bleeding, I felt like it didn't take enough coolant. I ran the car at varying rpm's for 20 min and the cabin was hot and the reading was in the middle but I am worried I may have an air lock. I just felt like it should have taken more coolant but I did run water through the hoses before replacing the thermostat.

I tried looking at the other posts, but nothing was directly related to my issue.

thanks for any help.
 

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That vent is designed to prevent air locks but I can't imagine any air lock caused would be big enough to significantly affect the amount of coolant re-filled. No biggie to adjust it. Park the car so its tilted away from the t'stat end of the engine, and nose up or down I can't remember, to minimise the coolant loss. Either way, it won't lose much. Take the housing off again, re-seat the t'stat and try again.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
you
That vent is designed to prevent air locks but I can't imagine any air lock caused would be big enough to significantly affect the amount of coolant re-filled. No biggie to adjust it. Park the car so its tilted away from the t'stat end of the engine, and nose up or down I can't remember, to minimise the coolant loss. Either way, it won't lose much. Take the housing off again, re-seat the t'stat and try again.
thanks for the reply.
You think I should have the vent up top? it makes that much of a difference?
the needle went to the middle and stayed there for the entire time I tried to attempt to bleed it.
ran it a 3.5krpm and held there , fan kicked on 3 -4 times while I had it idling .
 

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You really do want to be sure the jiggle pin is pointing up. If air gets trapped on the engine side of the thermostat is could cause real issues. The pin is there for a reason.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ok thanks, I will see about taking it back out to move it. Do you think that is enough to cause the bleeding issue?
 

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here we go. How to fill coolant. Get any spare coolant hose that fits the head. remove hose from head. put spare hose on head and fill enghine with coolant. Then fill radiator from the disconnected head to radiator coolant hose. Then connect the upper hose to the head. Fill the reservoir. Then start the car , turn the heater on full defrost and run the car at a fast idle (2000 rpm) for two minutes. Top off reservoir, replace cap, road test and then after cool down top off reservoir if needed. This assumes you installed the t stat correctly. If the engine is not filled with coolant, the water pump cant pump air, so no coolant flows from reservoir through the radiator to the top of the head. Filling the head primes the water pump filling the radiator from the upper hose does its job, something the reservoir and its small hoses cant do well at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ok so update to this .
I took the thermostat out and noticed the one I used to replace it did not have the vent built into it.
I did not put it back together yet and wanted to check in with you all.
Should I buy the one that does, it seems to be hard to find locally. The only ones they carry (Stant) are the ones that do not have that hole in in.
 

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Not all thermostats have jiggle pins, but there should be some feature for air bleed. Look for a notch or some other asymmetrical feature that gives a clue about its orientation.
 

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I assume its a 2.0 LK9 but maybe not a simple OEM GM or ac delco thermostat works fine, biggest challenge is not displacing the gasket that surrounds the thermostat plate.esaab.com 30577561 includes gasket
 

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