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11 Posts
Model Year: 2007
Build Month/Year: N/A
Mileage (in Miles): 89,611
Have you experienced this issue (Yes/no)? NO
If yes, have you validated w/ compression test (yes/no)? YES
If yes, did you have your car repaired (yes/no)? NO
(Optional) If yes, what was your out of pocket cost? N/A

Cold(43 degrees F) compression test results: 1-165psi. ,2-155psi. ,3-175psi. ,4-175psi.

My car shut off on me while driving and wouldn't start up again. I thought I was a victim of the intake valve problem and it turned out to be that the car had run out of gas. lol I'll be sure to keep track of the miles every time I fill up this time. As I don't want to replace the fuel pump assembly.
 

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81 Posts
Just wanted to pass along thanks to this site. I got my 2008 back together and it runs great!! I did many other things when I had it all apart....the usual suspects....did the water pump, balance and timing chains and all of the guides. thermostat, the seal on the vac pump and resealed the power steering pump as it was bad too.
@Quickredline…..thanks for the tip on Josh Billheimer at Category V. I did not like what I was hearing from the local machine shops. I got new bio power valves and Josh did the rest. For those that want to take it a step further, I think he does port and polishing on the heads too. Now just need some warm weather to really enjoy this convertible.
 

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1 Posts
Model Year: 2007
Build Month/Year: 8/07
Mileage (in Miles): 142,249
Have you experienced this issue (Yes/no)? YES
If yes, have you validated w/ compression test (yes/no)? YES (1=75psi; 2=145psi; 3=150psi; 4=140psi)
If yes, did you have your car repaired (yes/no)? NO
(Optional) If yes, what was your out of pocket cost? $873 was all my parts orders which includes other upgrades/upkeep (timing chain, belt & tensioner, injectors, etc.) probably a little over $1000 when you include the tools I got like the camshaft locking tool, valve spring compressor kit, and so on.
  • Bought the car at 106k in the winter, had no issues.
  • Next winter at ~126k I started to have issues, but never to the point where I was stranded. Replaced the starter motor, battery, spark plugs, ignition coils and by then it was warm again.
  • Next winter started to have issues again, then finally gave up at 142k. I made the mistake of towing it to the local Pepboys and they continued to give my bad diagnoses (starter motor again, spark plugs again, ECU, ICM, bad rings, turbo?) until I got it started in their parking lot on a warm day and took her home.
Spent this spring getting the car back up and running as I could buy parts. Ended up replacing all my valves. Some exhaust valves were horribly pitted (especially cyl 1), and intake valves were all extremely worn out. When filling the ports with liquid, some would leak out past the valve completely in just a minute. Just finished putting together and she started perfectly. Still on jacks though, fixing a leaky turbo to downpipe issue now... I'll get it running soon and hope for the best next winter, especially since I'll be moving to Ohio.


Glad I found this forum, or I would have given the dummies at my local Pepboys a lot of money for a lot of nothing.
 

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Glad you found it too.
 

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2 Posts
Model Year: 2007 ( UK )
Build Month/Year: Dec 2006 ( on VIN )
Mileage (in Miles): 77,200
Have you experienced this issue (Yes/no)? NO
If yes, have you validated w/ compression test (yes/no)? YES One cylinder was down to 90 psi
If yes, did you have your car repaired (yes/no)? YES
(Optional) If yes, what was your out of pocket cost? 200 GBP ( bought parts and did job myself. ).

Used method posted on here ( remove exhaust studs and lift head with turbo etc still in place ).
 
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