SaabCentral Forums banner

721 - 740 of 755 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
2008 9-3 2.0T
Build date: 6/2008
112,000 miles
North Texas location
Compression test: yes, see below

My son just bought this as his first car. We did prelim research on the car but unfortunately this issue didn't show up until we knew specifically to look for it later after purchase. He bought it from the original owner, always been here in Texas in this same area, SAAB specialist maintained included records. Car looks pristine and owner has communicated after the fact that it has only ever had a rough cold start issue twice this winter (supposedly).

Anywho, car worked perfectly at test drive and ran great according to my son for the one week he was able to drive it before it failed to start at all. Temperature at the time of the no start was around 45°F. It's been warmer since, only about a week later now, as high as 75° and still no start. Compression test shows 60/60/35/40 on the cylinders at around a 55° ambient morning temperature. I have no idea how it was even able to run for the week it did, let alone halfway decent.

So, we're going to replace the intake valves ourselves, he doesn't have the extra money now after buying the car to pay a mechanic. What all should we replace along with the valves considering mileage etc?

Intake Valves
Head gasket
Valve cover gasket
Intake Valve seats?
Exhaust valves?
Timing chain?

Just looking for a complete list of the basic necessities to replace and then a few suggested preventive replacements.

I'm planning to hand lap the valves in, beyond that is there anything additional a machine shop might do to the head that would make it worthwhile to pay them for? Thanks guys.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,441 Posts
2008 9-3 2.0T

Build date: 6/2008

112,000 miles

North Texas location

Compression test: yes, see below



My son just bought this as his first car. We did prelim research on the car but unfortunately this issue didn't show up until we knew specifically to look for it later after purchase. He bought it from the original owner, always been here in Texas in this same area, SAAB specialist maintained included records. Car looks pristine and owner has communicated after the fact that it has only ever had a rough cold start issue twice this winter (supposedly).



Anywho, car worked perfectly at test drive and ran great according to my son for the one week he was able to drive it before it failed to start at all. Temperature at the time of the no start was around 45°F. It's been warmer since, only about a week later now, as high as 75° and still no start. Compression test shows 60/60/35/40 on the cylinders at around a 55° ambient morning temperature. I have no idea how it was even able to run for the week it did, let alone halfway decent.



So, we're going to replace the intake valves ourselves, he doesn't have the extra money now after buying the car to pay a mechanic. What all should we replace along with the valves considering mileage etc?



Intake Valves

Head gasket

Valve cover gasket

Intake Valve seats?

Exhaust valves?

Timing chain?



Just looking for a complete list of the basic necessities to replace and then a few suggested preventive replacements.



I'm planning to hand lap the valves in, beyond that is there anything additional a machine shop might do to the head that would make it worthwhile to pay them for? Thanks guys.


I assume you meant intake valve seals and not seats.

Head bolts are torque to yield type and should be replaced.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
2008 9-3 2.0T
Build date: 6/2008
112,000 miles
North Texas location
Compression test: yes, see below

So, we're going to replace the intake valves ourselves, he doesn't have the extra money now after buying the car to pay a mechanic. What all should we replace along with the valves considering mileage etc?

Intake Valves
Head gasket
Valve cover gasket
Intake Valve seats?
Exhaust valves?
Timing chain?

Just looking for a complete list of the basic necessities to replace and then a few suggested preventive replacements.

I'm planning to hand lap the valves in, beyond that is there anything additional a machine shop might do to the head that would make it worthwhile to pay them for? Thanks guys.
I did this on my 2008 when it had approximately 80,500 miles on it a bit over a year ago. Items replaced included:
All valves/intake and exhaust
All valve guides/intake and exhaust
Cylinder head gasket set (includes lots of small stuff you don't think about and will need including intake and exhaust gaskets, exhaust valve seals, etc.)
Cylinder head bolts/all

Cylinder head resurfaced by machine shop. Valve guides, valve guide seals and valves installed by machine shop. All in I think it cost me about $850. Budget at least three days; it's pretty entailed. And cleanliness is, as they say, next to godliness. Buy only good products. For instance, I ended up buying two sets of head bolts. First set was Chinese and total crap. Returned them for better produce from eEuro. Victor-Rheinz gaskets, machine shop sourced the valves and guides, there's nothing exotic about them. You'll also need to buy or rent the necessary camshaft locking tools for setting the cams. No working around it. I did not replace the timing chain or any timing chain components. I've heard they can fail, but that's not been my experience. My 2006 9-3 has 215,000 miles on it, engine has never been touched. I change my oil every 5,000, Mobil 1 0-40.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
19,217 Posts
I did this on my 2008 when it had approximately 80,500 miles on it a bit over a year ago. Items replaced included:
All valves/intake and exhaust
All valve guides/intake and exhaust
Cylinder head gasket set (includes lots of small stuff you don't think about and will need including intake and exhaust gaskets, exhaust valve seals, etc.)
Cylinder head bolts/all

Cylinder head resurfaced by machine shop. Valve guides, valve guide seals and valves installed by machine shop. All in I think it cost me about $850. Budget at least three days; it's pretty entailed. And cleanliness is, as they say, next to godliness. Buy only good products. For instance, I ended up buying two sets of head bolts. First set was Chinese and total crap. Returned them for better produce from eEuro. Victor-Rheinz gaskets, machine shop sourced the valves and guides, there's nothing exotic about them. You'll also need to buy or rent the necessary camshaft locking tools for setting the cams. No working around it. I did not replace the timing chain or any timing chain components. I've heard they can fail, but that's not been my experience. My 2006 9-3 has 215,000 miles on it, engine has never been touched. I change my oil every 5,000, Mobil 1 0-40.
Which shop did the work?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
I had it done local to me, a shop in Lawrence, Kansas. The 2 liter Ecotec engine in the 9-3 was used in a variety of GM products, notably Chevy Cobalts and the like. A good machine shop will likely have experience with the Ecotec engine. Parts like valves and guides are readily available to them, my local shop sourced all of that for me and I sourced the gaskets. Saab did some of its own engineering adapting the Ecotec to their use, and some parts like gaskets, camshafts and others are unique to Saab. eEuroparts.com was offering complete exchange heads with all necessary parts, but just looked and didn't see it.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
19,217 Posts
Yes, I can see that, lol. Which one though.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
19,217 Posts
I meant which shop in Lawrence is good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Ah. Automotive Machine & Performance. They don't have a web presence. Pat and Doc. 785-843-9333. Doc usually answers the phone. Tell him Richie sent you; he'll groan and charge you extra!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
2008 9-3 2.0T
Build date: 6/2008
112,000 miles
North Texas location
Compression test: yes, see below

My son just bought this as his first car. We did prelim research on the car but unfortunately this issue didn't show up until we knew specifically to look for it later after purchase. He bought it from the original owner, always been here in Texas in this same area, SAAB specialist maintained included records. Car looks pristine and owner has communicated after the fact that it has only ever had a rough cold start issue twice this winter (supposedly).

Anywho, car worked perfectly at test drive and ran great according to my son for the one week he was able to drive it before it failed to start at all. Temperature at the time of the no start was around 45°F. It's been warmer since, only about a week later now, as high as 75° and still no start. Compression test shows 60/60/35/40 on the cylinders at around a 55° ambient morning temperature. I have no idea how it was even able to run for the week it did, let alone halfway decent.

So, we're going to replace the intake valves ourselves, he doesn't have the extra money now after buying the car to pay a mechanic. What all should we replace along with the valves considering mileage etc?

Intake Valves
Head gasket
Valve cover gasket
Intake Valve seats?
Exhaust valves?
Timing chain?

Just looking for a complete list of the basic necessities to replace and then a few suggested preventive replacements.

I'm planning to hand lap the valves in, beyond that is there anything additional a machine shop might do to the head that would make it worthwhile to pay them for? Thanks guys.
I used eeuroparts cylinder head and intake valve rebuild kit. They don't seem to list the intake valve kit or the cylinder rebuild head kit, but this old link I had still seems to work for now and should show the parts list. Call them, I'm sure they'd put together a kit.

https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/418659/Cylinder-Head-Assembly-amp-Install-Kit-B207-Intake-Valve-Replacement-101K10353/

It was faster and a bit cheaper to use a rebuilt head from eeuro than deal with a local machine shop. I also replaced the lifters, but it probably wasn't necessary. Wish I'd replaced the water pump while I was in there since it's minimal work at the time. Rent the camshaft alignment block tools to make ensure the timing is set correctly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Thanks for your help all. I subbed to Alldata for the repair information, is it sufficient/comparable to the WIS manual often referred to here? Alldata will do or will I definitely need the WIS?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
497 Posts
Model Year: 2007
Build Month/Year: dec 2006
Mileage (in Miles): 172000
Have you experienced this issue (Yes/no)? no
If yes, have you validated w/ compression test (yes/no)? temp.: 35F ;178/178/183/178
If yes, did you have your car repaired (yes/no)?
(Optional) If yes, what was your out of pocket cost?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
271 Posts
Model Year: 2007
Build Month/Year: dec 2006
Mileage (in Miles): 172000
Have you experienced this issue (Yes/no)? no
If yes, have you validated w/ compression test (yes/no)? temp.: 35F ;178/178/183/178
If yes, did you have your car repaired (yes/no)?
(Optional) If yes, what was your out of pocket cost?
My 2007 was built in late 2006 as well. And I have over 120k miles and it starts just fine in cold weather (~20 deg F). Haven't run a compression test, though. Hope this doesn't jinx us, but we may have dodged a bullet.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
19,217 Posts
My 2007 was built in late 2006 as well. And I have over 120k miles and it starts just fine in cold weather (~20 deg F). Haven't run a compression test, though. Hope this doesn't jinx us, but we may have dodged a bullet.
Typically around Summer 2007 builds is when they become most prevalent.

If it hasn't reared it's head at 120k then you are in the clear.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
19,217 Posts
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Model Year: 2007
Build Month/Year:
Mileage (in Miles): 154,000
Have you experienced this issue (Yes/no)? YES
If yes, have you validated w/ compression test (yes/no)? YES
If yes, did you have your car repaired (yes/no)? YES
(Optional) If yes, what was your out of pocket cost? $450 ($610 total but receive refund of $160 core charge for alignment tool)

It has been a little hesitant to start the last couple winters, and this winter it finally wouldn't start unless the head was heated first.

Compression test: 170 - 170 - 80 - 30

Bought everything from eeuroparts (kit contents minus head - SAAB Cylinder Head Assembly & Install Kit (B207) (Intake Valve Replacement) ) can't post link, but it is in this thread
Also bought new intake valves, valve grinding compound, lapping tool, and valve guide seals.
FYI - good video on lapping valves: Cylinder Head 105 - Valve Job Basics by Jafromobile

I have WIS, so knowing what to take off and torque specs when assembling is key.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
A loaded question, but here goes since I’m looking for another 9-3.

This intake valve problem, on the 08’s, is it a matter of time before this shows up or are their some that will not see this problem?

If it is a chance of happening, any numbers on what percent is affected?
 
721 - 740 of 755 Posts
Top