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So drove the Sedan a few times now, did it first oil change at about 85 miles on the engine.* Next one at 500 miles

-Small oil leak on feed line for turbo (should be resolved)

-Small oil leak on oil return off turbo (think its still leaking, only one drop of oil after I turned it off though)

-Small oil leak on oil pump housing or crank seal (bugger, easy repair but not good it didn't take)

-Suspension has a few clunks from sway bar end links



I plan to get 1500-2000 miles on it before winter, drop the oil pan (this car is supposed to run on synthetic) so need to check the pan, do oil leak fixes, make some adjustments and hopefully vinyl wrap this car.






So Wagon got some new wheels, these are the wheels it would have came with in 2000.* Love the look.* Wagon just needs a brake booster for repairs.* I want to add a trailer hitch to it for extra "this car does everything factor"







Clean ecopower





Dirty ecopower





It rained today while I was putting in my new garage door opener on my side of the garage; I did my wife's side 2 years ago and it was super quiet, bought another one, said the only way I would install it is if I got that car running and it moved under its own power.











And then...we traded in her 2015 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport for a 2019 Subaru Forester.* Mitsubishi is looking like its going the way of Suzuki with Nissan mismanaging money as it is, don't think they will make it much longer than another 2-3 years.* Took the equity we had and ran.

The Forester is fantastic we got the Limited with the Power liftgate, harmon kardon, panoramic roof, and stuff.





Parking lot





And I modded it

Got to like the saab singing in the rain gif.

By the way, is that a forester xt?
 

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Discussion Starter #143
Got to like the saab singing in the rain gif.

By the way, is that a forester xt?
They ended the XTs with the new model. I didn't want her in a turbo car anyways. N/A Subaru's tend to last a little longer.

What's w the headlights? Custom made? Where did u get those?
Headlights are custom made by me. You have to cut them open and plastic weld them back together.



Well the bad news is the oil pressure has been dropping on the engine, 300 miles in and I'm seeing 8-10psi at idle and 26-28 at 2000 rpms. I am running a Brad Penn 30w straight oil, wossner says run a conventional oil to get the rings to set. I'm going to drop the pan, check for debris, then go to Motul's 10w-40 oil and go from there. I might need to just bite the bullet and plastigauge main #3.
 

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Discussion Starter #144
Made a little video to have some fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #146
Just 4 pics to update. No words




 

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Very neat! Good thing the 9-5 already has puddle lights wired up, should make the handle wiring easy! You should look at the puddle lights on eBay that project the Saab logo. Bought a set for my Viggen and have one side installed, running wires through the factory door loom is a pain!!

Interested in the product you used for the rear lights. I’ve wanted to do something similar to the front with white lights. I think I would have done it the opposite way though, and tried to follow the slanted line on the inside of the lens. I don’t know what kind of bend those lights can accommodate though.
 

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Discussion Starter #148
Very neat! Good thing the 9-5 already has puddle lights wired up, should make the handle wiring easy! You should look at the puddle lights on eBay that project the Saab logo. Bought a set for my Viggen and have one side installed, running wires through the factory door loom is a pain!!

Interested in the product you used for the rear lights. I’ve wanted to do something similar to the front with white lights. I think I would have done it the opposite way though, and tried to follow the slanted line on the inside of the lens. I don’t know what kind of bend those lights can accommodate though.

The thing is though, those puddle lights only light up once you open the door. So I will be running a wire through the loom, I've done it before its not hard, I'll be pinning it with the harness on the car so it disconnects like factory.

Those Saab logo puddle lights wash out after a year of use. Many have reported that.

The rear lights is just a test to figure out a design, its just some neon tube leds off ebay. I'll be using round or square acrylic tubing shaped the way I want it, its rather easy to do
 

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I can't believe I finally saw this 2000 aero wagon again, I contacted the guy to try and buy the shell a few weeks to late after you got it. Nice to know it got the treatment it deserves though. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #150





How to ruin a rust free car
 

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Excellent thread, full of beautiful Saabs and great information - even if your headliner fabric choices are, uh... questionable. Hahah :p

Would you be willing to share the cost of having the machining done to your wagon's engine? Or did you have any work done at all, just cleaning and re-assembling? I've got an engine that is coming out of an -02, and I'd like to do a full rebuild. Just trying to gauge what I'm in for, cost wise. Thanks!
 

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I'm also following....I have a wagon with 195k and a spare engine with 98k. Not sure which I want to tear apart and upgrade like you did...
 

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Yeah, may not be worth it. Do you know the spare runs well? I'll need to rebuild mine, as it makes quite a racket for the little bit of time I can run it.
 

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I was told it was running when I bought it from a member on here. I was considering tearing it down and redoing gaskets, possibly cleaning up the bores and maybe new rings. I bought the car at 192k. Now has almost 196k. Seems to run just fine at the moment. Leaks a little bit of oil but not enough to leave puddles anymore since I did the oil switch.
 

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In my opinion, since it's so much easier to work on when it's not in the car, might as well do what you said. Tear it down to do all the gaskets, and at least check the cam journals and main/rod bearings. I'm going to do a full rebuild, but probably over the space of a year or two, as my car is running strong. Sounds like that may be an option for you too, to ease the financial burden of replacing everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #156
My full machining bill was $1200, but I also paid for a full blueprinting, matching bearings to the main and rods so that they all were even across the board and lightened the flywheel.

Sedan, I put in new timing chain (at the time was $220), water pump, power steering pump, ac compressor, alternator, everything in that engine bay is new. So the cost is high.

For the wagon, I got the engine from a 2006 and was told it was running and I think they said it had 128k miles on it. When I pulled the oil pan, it was CLEAN, so I knew it was good motor, just on visual inspection alone. I then plastigauge 2 rods and 2 mains and it was dead on for perfect spec. So my recommendation? Does the engine spin nice? How caramelized is the side walls of the block and head (tells how good and often the oil changes were usually)? Plastigauge 2 rods and mains, if its dead on spec and the bearings show little to no wear, then I'd run it without a bottom end rebuild. The bearings and bolts are cheap, its getting it blueprinted, cleaned and balanced where you will spend the money. The wagon engine I got is an AB on cylinder 1/2 and AA on cylinder 3/4 (its a sizing thing my pistons on 1/2 are ever so slightly larger) and in hindsight, wish I had gotten this balanced maybe, but that would mean a full tear down. Its not the most refined feeling B235, I've had better B235s, but this one has fantastic compression, doesn't burn a drop and goes like stink.

I got the timing chain used from a trusted member on here, he put about 5k miles on it so it was $80. Head work was $75/cylinder (valve seals are rare failures on this car but it was worth it), so $300. I had a flywheel clutch pair that had 10k miles on it from the Sedan. T5 cams $50. Gaskets and fluids $200 or so. Water pump and alternator $400 (new). I had other new parts on the shelf. I got the updated transmission for $150. Honestly with everything I've done, including the cost of the rolling chassis wagon, maybe $4-5k into it (I sold and scrapped a few parts off the blue and white wagon I had, I broke even at the end of the day) The new axles and LCAs were a set back. The upgrading the rear brakes to vented 300mm rotors was hefty too, those rotors are expensive no matter what. The auto leveling rear shocks was an add-on, the roll out rear floor, the custom stereo, tint, etc. I threw in a lot of extras into this car to make it a good daily. Just basic transportation, probably could've done it for 2-3k$. Engine reseal and refresh? $750-1000. The Sedans engine build up...more than I care to admit. I'm having someone rebuild the transmission on the Sedan right now and that tab is running me about $2500-3000 alone on the transmission, since the first rebuild didn't take.

Sedan has money thrown at it, the wagon gets the leftovers, keep in might I have brand new parts and extra parts in a shed out back for my personal use.

Things I would do over again? Honestly, a B235R balanced by a machine shop is really smooth and really gives this engine the level of refinement it needs. I wish I could've done that on the wagon. Also lightening the rotational mass on the engine is huge too for these motors, the way it revs now is incredible. So not a whole lot I would change. Hard to justify breaking down a bottom end if it doesn't need it.
 

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Drunkie, thank you very much for the detailed reply. From what you describe, if it's in the budget it will probably be worth a full rebuild. My case is a bit strange, as the service history is excellent, but I can't run the engine for any length of time to learn anything (it's got no coolant system thanks to the crash). I'm probably going to rebuild everything, but I'll start with the minor teardown and plasti-gauge as you suggest. In either case, things like the water pump, belts, timing components and lightened flywheel will happen. Thanks for the input!
 

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What are the specs on those KNPs? Running adapters or wobbles? Love the fitment and am aiming for something similar.
 
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