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Discussion Starter #102
Hauling stuff in the wagon.




Teaching my daughter the important things


Got the combi adapter working


Got the headlights finished




So I drained the oil on the Sedan before the engine pull


And the engine is out

 

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Discussion Starter #103
 

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Hi. I'm new on this site, and like what your advice on this thread. I've got an 95 se with a blown turbo. The engine is a B235E. And it's an automatic. It has been sitting for a while, but I would like to see it going again. Wouldn't like to go overboard with cost or power the internals can't handle. Any advice where and what turbo to buy. And other parts needed/recommended. I live in NSW, Australia. I've had four Saabs and am originally from Norway.

Ta, Trygve Klem. ([email protected] )
 

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Discussion Starter #106
Hi. I'm new on this site, and like what your advice on this thread. I've got an 95 se with a blown turbo. The engine is a B235E. And it's an automatic. It has been sitting for a while, but I would like to see it going again. Wouldn't like to go overboard with cost or power the internals can't handle. Any advice where and what turbo to buy. And other parts needed/recommended. I live in NSW, Australia. I've had four Saabs and am originally from Norway.

Ta, Trygve Klem. ([email protected] )
I would highly recommend opening a thread, because I am just one opinion and you may want to hear from others what they have to say.

If money is an issue keep it GT17 (supposedly the $100 china GT17 turbos actually last, one guy has 75000 miles on his)

If you can spring it (really not much more money) then TD04, find a used one online, you will need some hardware to convert to use the turbo, but nothing expensive.
 

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Wow. I am suitably impressed with your car, and your skills and knowledge. Way out of my league! Thanks for reply. Think I will go for the upgraded turbo. Search is on. First I will take the old one out. Thanks again, Trygve
 

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Discussion Starter #108
Getting really close to engine crank time, hoping July 4th.

My procedure will be to crank the engine 2-3 times for 10-15 seconds each. No fuel/No spark. Make sure I read oil pressure, check for leaks.

1st oil - Catrol GTX Conventional oil 5w-30, I run this until the engine reaches operating temp then dump it.

2nd oil - Brad Penn 30wt Break-in conventional - 50 miles or so, then dump it

3rd oil - Brad Penn 30wt Break-in conventional - 500 miles or so, then dump it

4th oil - Catrol GTX or Pennzoil Coneventional 5w-30 - 1500 miles or so, then dump it.

5th oil - maybe conventional or full synthetic 5w-40 and normal oil changes every 4,000 miles. Some say goes as far as 4,000 miles total on the engine before going back to Synthetic.

I am doing conventional because after talking with the Machine shop, Wossner and a few others, they said the reason some guys had oil burn issues is because they ran Synthetic right out of box and it never let the rings seat. I also set my rings to be on the NON-thrust side of the engine another key point Saab side notes in WIS, it is a bit difficult to do but it only allows the rings to sit in one spot.

I'll have some pictures after this weekend, transmission is done. I have a 0 mile gearset with the strongest gearset made (the 4.45) with 4.45 final drive and a Quaife LSD. So much to do, with so little time.
 

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Getting really close to engine crank time, hoping July 4th.

My procedure will be to crank the engine 2-3 times for 10-15 seconds each. No fuel/No spark. Make sure I read oil pressure, check for leaks.



I am doing conventional because after talking with the Machine shop, Wossner and a few others, they said the reason some guys had oil burn issues is because they ran Synthetic right out of box and it never let the rings seat. I also set my rings to be on the NON-thrust side of the engine another key point Saab side notes in WIS, it is a bit difficult to do but it only allows the rings to sit in one spot.

I'll have some pictures after this weekend, transmission is done. I have a 0 mile gearset with the strongest gearset made (the 4.45) with 4.45 final drive and a Quaife LSD. So much to do, with so little time.
A few notes. Overreach on oil changes. The issue of ring seating is always one of the cross hatch pattern and depth versus ring material versus ring eng gap versus forged pistons in a stock bore. So hopefully you got it right. I don't do break in oil anymore but its probably not going to hurt. If you stack the ring end gaps on top of each other bad things happen so hopefully they are staggered.

The 4.45 gear set is no different from any other 4.05 or 3.82. Over time there have been changes to the fifth gear synchroniser set eliminating brass synchros, and reverse gear sets changing bearings and shims. Saab 5th is taller ratio by decimal points than the 5th in any Delta platform trans. I ran 4.45 for decades; its a cool cwp and acceleration is mighty but gas consumption sucks. My close ratio 6 speed quaife is noisy but its stronger and the close ratios are perfect with 2nd and 5th matching a 4.45 cwp in a standard delta 5 speed. 6th is a gas sipper which really works for me. 1st gear in the quaife is 3:1 which is why the CR 2/3/4/5 are so incredible. However I digress lol


For a heavy Saab the 4.45 will be stellar. Stronger input and output gears? not at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #110
A few notes. Overreach on oil changes. The issue of ring seating is always one of the cross hatch pattern and depth versus ring material versus ring eng gap versus forged pistons in a stock bore. So hopefully you got it right. I don't do break in oil anymore but its probably not going to hurt. If you stack the ring end gaps on top of each other bad things happen so hopefully they are staggered.

The 4.45 gear set is no different from any other 4.05 or 3.82. Over time there have been changes to the fifth gear synchroniser set eliminating brass synchros, and reverse gear sets changing bearings and shims. Saab 5th is taller ratio by decimal points than the 5th in any Delta platform trans. I ran 4.45 for decades; its a cool cwp and acceleration is mighty but gas consumption sucks. My close ratio 6 speed quaife is noisy but its stronger and the close ratios are perfect with 2nd and 5th matching a 4.45 cwp in a standard delta 5 speed. 6th is a gas sipper which really works for me. 1st gear in the quaife is 3:1 which is why the CR 2/3/4/5 are so incredible. However I digress lol


For a heavy Saab the 4.45 will be stellar. Stronger input and output gears? not at all.
Yeah I staggered the rings, otherwise blow by for days.

Compression rings on opposite sides where Saab specifies, which is over the pin but on either edge of the pin. Oil scrappers on the non thrust side staggered betweeen 7-8 o'clock and 4-5 o'clock as Saab specifies.

I have a quaife 6 speed set here, my friend is going to teach me how to rebuild these transmissions next time round, so maybe next summer I will. Being as this car sees about 6,000 miles a year, I can live with the gas mileage. I couldn't locate a 9000 5th gear which would have bumped me down to a 0.67:1 IIRC. I suspect my MPG of 23 will probably become 18 I think.
 

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Discussion Starter #111
Having talked to a few more people, I'll stretch from 500 to 750, and then change at 1,500. After that 4,000 miles. All will be on conventional oil.

I'll be doing some of the tuning with the guidance of SweedeFleetTuning. I also added a wire from my wideband o2 to the ECU Pin 16 so that when I datalog it also datalogs the wideband info. We won't probably push the envelope I think with the engine, keep it a touch conservative.

Other things I'm thinking about...Airbags for the suspension. I like what they have to offer and have been talking with a few people that install them, people who race with them. They really have made leaps and bounds. I would be using the coilovers I have now but installing bags in place of the springs. Again its just a thought, I would love to do it.
 

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Yeah I staggered the rings, otherwise blow by for days.

Compression rings on opposite sides where Saab specifies, which is over the pin but on either edge of the pin. Oil scrappers on the non thrust side staggered betweeen 7-8 o'clock and 4-5 o'clock as Saab specifies.

I have a quaife 6 speed set here, my friend is going to teach me how to rebuild these transmissions next time round, so maybe next summer I will. Being as this car sees about 6,000 miles a year, I can live with the gas mileage. I couldn't locate a 9000 5th gear which would have bumped me down to a 0.67:1 IIRC. I suspect my MPG of 23 will probably become 18 I think.
all good. mileage? 12-15 . The quaife will require an extra shifter rail not supplied with the kit and a rack spacer to stop the wheels from hitting the extended case on sharp right turns... worth the effort. Reinforce the case as well Tailleferro has the description down very well The 4.05 quaife will outperform the 4.45 and is another zip code on mileage benefit.
 

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Discussion Starter #113
all good. mileage? 12-15 . The quaife will require an extra shifter rail not supplied with the kit and a rack spacer to stop the wheels from hitting the extended case on sharp right turns... worth the effort. Reinforce the case as well Tailleferro has the description down very well The 4.05 quaife will outperform the 4.45 and is another zip code on mileage benefit.
Good to know! I have 2 transmission worth of spare parts now.

I may do the 6 speed conversion in another 2 years.

There was a guy recently who was talking about putting the 4.45 in the with the 6 speed conversion......I told him he was nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter #116
New engine is in!


 

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Discussion Starter #120
So I hit a couple of issues along the way.

One is how I routed my wires under the dash, little uncomfortable with this, so I put corugated loom around it and tucked it up even further. It should be good for a few rounds around the track. The current stereo in their is only going to make it until December and then I'll be switching for stereo #6, so I will check it then.


Then I found out that the Genuine Saab tubular manifold doesn't accommodate for the diverter valve tube. So I ended up going back to a ported stock manifold setup. I am running the King Cobra pipe and the turbo was modded for it...yes I could've swapped turbine housings, yes I could've modded the pipe, yes I could've done this or that. I felt that with this turbo (20T) my power would be damn near identical where I want it to count...under the curve. Tubular is all about peak numbers.



Don't forget...I have a 4.45 final drive, this car is going to be quick regardless what manifold I use.

DId I mention I'm remodeling a kitchen too? This is my basement right now



Brakes and coilovers in, color stripes might not be to everyones liking, it is just vinyl. I'll change it up over winter.



Engine is done




I never want to remove this turbo



I have 2 powder coated valve covers
 
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