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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
'Another' Brake Thread

I Need some input and help folks. My left rear Caliper is shot; doesn't release properly and has worn my pad away to almost bare metal at this point. It was quite quiet unfortunately; until just last night when it started to rub ungodly loud...

SO I need a brake job. This is broken into two parts: Must be done and a wish list.

Must be done:

-Replace both rear rotors, calipers, and pads.
-flush and replace brake fluid

I gotta do this much at least. Now I have a little time; but who wants to drive around with their car sounding like a lovesick rhino? :lol:

So what I would like to do:

-Replace all calipers with a nicer setup; possibly slightly larger rotors?
-New brake lines
-New pads all around
-New rotors all around.

I am looking for advice and suggestions on what might be good replacement parts? Anyone have ideas out there?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
P.S. Can anyone tell me how hard it is to replace calipers? I know which end of a wrench is used, but I haven't a huge amount of experience with cars to date. Did some modifications on my old Jeep; and I do oil changes etc.

I have a good mechanic who can do the job for between $320 and $400; but I would love to do it myself if I can manage. ;)
 

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99Saabnut said:
P.S. Can anyone tell me how hard it is to replace calipers? I know which end of a wrench is used, but I haven't a huge amount of experience with cars to date. Did some modifications on my old Jeep; and I do oil changes etc.

I have a good mechanic who can do the job for between $320 and $400; but I would love to do it myself if I can manage. ;)
http://www.geocities.com/ng900set/BrakesF/front_pads.html?20073
http://www.geocities.com/ng900set/BrakesR/rear_pads.html?200728

This will depend on your skills, attitude(very important), knowledge, experience and your tool set..
I'd say Saabs are quite easy.
Only 5 years on rear calipers ???.
Your brake fluid level at the reservoir is an indicator of pad wear - but some people "top off"....Then this must be un-done when new pads are installed..
But the fluid is due for a change ,more than likely - another easy task..
 

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I have had the rear calipers off about three times since one of mine went the same way. What is happening may not be exactly what it seems, but no way to be 100% sure.

Unfortunately, my replacement/remanufactured caliper lasted only about two years b/f the same thing started to happen. This despite taking the calipers off after a year to check/clean/and relube the slide pins.

If you live in a state that uses road salt in winter, the rear brakes are pretty much disposable after 100K miles or less, and the handbrake parts inside the rear rotors are usually not far behind.

The rear calipers are fixed, dual piston. The caliper is attached to the caliper bracket with bolts that do not move (different from the front), there is one piston per side, meaning one for each pad. If the slide pins for the pads rust, which is common, or if the caliper is not serviced right at the previous pad change, the pads wear unevenly, and you can grind a pad to nothing on one side only. Friction and heat does the rest.

If you can remove the old pads, clean the rust off, and make sure the pistons are moving on both sides, you may not be much worse off than remaned calipers. Pads and slide pins have to be replaced obviously, but if you are planning on a big brake kit of some type eventually, even a scored and rusted rear rotor will last a winter, because the rear brakes contribute less than 30% of the braking power.

If you want to go that far, Saab and Scantech both have rebuild kits with new inner/outer seals. I don't like the look of the Scantech kit much, but for all I know it may just be cosmetic differences.

Edit:

The only parts which can be tricky is removing the rotor set screw, that may require some luck or an impact screwdriver, and readjusting the handbrake shoes inside the rotor, so they grip correctly on both sides.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hhhm, so does anyone in the DC area want to help with a brake job? :cheesy: I am talking to Nick about upgrading to viggen brakes front and rear; so we will see. Perhaps this will be a good thing afterall. :lol:


EDIT: Sorry PMI; I posted as you did. Great info, thank you. But I had planned on upgrading the bakes this spring regardless; whether calipers and all or just better rotors/pads I wasn't sure yet. With this happening, I figure it is just an early upgrade/Christmas present to myself at this point.
 

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I can actually show you all this on the complete rear axle I have sitting in my apt. You can't have the parts, :lol: but once you find them, I can offer whatever help.



I would look for the rears off an 02-04 Aero, or 02-03 V6 Arc. The casting stamp is pretty easy to spot. 949. Nick sells this set up on his site, everything you need.





http://www.viggenfactfile.de/brakes4.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That's exactly what I think I will be doing Tweek; and thanks for the info. Just waiting for a reply from Nick now with a price work up and I'll know for sure:D


Oh, and thanks for the offer of help! I don't mind doing work but I am always a little nervous on a job I have never done before. Once I get a feel for things I am usually far more confident after:lol: :cheesy:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
OK folks; while I await my brake work; due to parts ordering and schedules holding things up so far (fully expected) I still have my original issue:
99Saabnut said:
My left rear Caliper is shot; doesn't release properly and has worn my pad away to almost bare metal at this point. It was quite quiet unfortunately; until just last night when it started to rub ungodly loud...
Well; over the last 2 1/2 days the "ungodly loud" noise has gotten even louder if possible; and as the caliper won't release it is now audible at pretty much all times while driving. :confused: The remainder of the pad is basically gone so it is metal to metal now. I can't even drive out of my neighborhood without awakening half the neighbors, sending 4 cats into fights and causing every dog in the hood to bark :lol: :cry:

Since this caliper is not providing any stopping power at this point anyway; is there a safe way to disable it and remove the noise? I'll be doing a full kit so brake lines and all will be replaced. I just need to get through a week or so ;oops:
 

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99Saabnut said:
Since this caliper is not providing any stopping power at this point anyway; is there a safe way to disable it and remove the noise?
You can disconnect and cap the brake line at that wheel, but you loose all braking power in the caliper.

To do that, you buy a brake line "union" (any part store), basically a piece used to connect two hard lines end to end. You need a union for a brake line with a "bubble flare". Then you plug one end, and use the other end to cap the brake line. (Not really worth the trouble, in my opinion, but... you asked... :cheesy: )
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
IF you had to listen to this caliper squeal for 65 miles each way in your commute, it would be worth it to you too :cheesy: :lol:


Thanks very much for the help; I'll try that tomorrow!;)
 

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Make sure you get the right part, the end which goes on the brake line has to match the brake line flare type, not just the thread. Some auto part store clerks don't know the difference between "bubble" flare and "double" flare, and it is not easy to tell by looking inside the part...:cheesy: Also, the union piece is made out of some soft material, like brass, so normally it is good for one use. At Napa, they are around $2-$3.
 

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And if you get in an accident, I'm sure the police and the insurance company will understand that you disconnected the caliper! Buy a used caliper in the mean time it's not worth it ;)
 
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