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Discussion Starter #1
Well I've been having some reaccuring clunking in my suspension when I steer for the longest time now. It has started to increase now and does it when I am driving straight as well. I have taken all of the aftermarket suspension braces on and off now to no avail. I have one more trick to try, but I think it must be more than something I did to the car that isn't working just right.

So I am looking at getting this kit from genuine saab. I figure it must be a bushing issue. I have read that the clamp and brace can put stress on worn bushings drastically reducing their life. Since I put the brace and clamp on when the car had about 85k miles, and it now has 102k I figure this is surely possible.

So my question is given that I get this new kit with all the poly bushings, is there really any other source that could be causing my clunk? I mean won't I be replacing all the possible problem areas? I really don't want to unload over $500 to have it not fix the clunk.

The only other thing that I was thinking could be a strut mount, but I was assured by the tech that put in my struts and springs at about 90k that they were perfectly fine.

This may be a drastic measure, but I am willing to do it to get rid of my clunk. Besides, then I'll have full poly bushings in the front. :cheesy:
http://www.genuinesaab.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21_28&products_id=248
 

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You sure it isn't just a CV joint?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I hadn't considered that much. I just didn't feel it was that likely at first, but I soppose at the state my clunking is now, it could be.

Hmmmm. What would be some more symptoms to pin it to the cv rather than another part?
 

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I just recieved all those poly bushings today and will most likely be putting them in next week. I too have a suspension clunk i get at parking speeds when turning. I will let you know how it goes for me.

Is there any reason you cant buy the front ARB w/o the rest of thier kit?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It is more noticeable at parking speeds. I mean I get it at higher speeds but its only on larger bumps. I hardly notice it on the highway.

Yes, I could get just the control arms, but for about $60 more I'd like to upgrade to the 24mm front sway.
 

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16volt said:
I just received all those poly bushings today and will most likely be putting them in next week. I too have a suspension clunk i get at parking speeds when turning. I will let you know how it goes for me.

Is there any reason you cant buy the front ARB w/o the rest of their kit?
Is ARB = anti roll bar ?? This should last forever, but not the rubber bushings..

The click - clack when turning is the worn CV joints.
IMO, if the rubber bushings are worn enough to yield a clunk, then a man should also be able to see where the rubber is shot...
There is always the ball-joints, mine was really sloppy but never made a sound...
And worn ball joints are easy to test,. Strut mounts are troublesome, may as well change these every 80 to 160K miles depending on the amount of potholes they encounter..
Many, many threads on this...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I guess I'll look into the worn CV joint thing next. I hadn't thought of that one recently, but it certainly makes sense.

But you say when turning, so is this as you turn the wheel, or when you have the wheel turned and are moving in the turn without turning more or less?

Just fishing for little ideas like this, then I'll add em to my search list :D
 

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Discussion Starter #8
But of course the cv in cv joint doesn't let you search for. I'll have to skim through all the joints...

But from what I'm beginning to read this makes sense as the sound being described seems the same as mine. But still I get the noise as I turn the steering wheel and another noise as I hit a bump at lower to medium speeds with the wheel turned or straight ahead. Would these be connected?
 

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CV joint click-clack is intensified during power on turns.The noise during a right turn indicates that it is that side...
Worn rubber bushings have a much "deader" sound, unless the bush is totally gone..
If this is not too bad, one can try repacking the CV.
If the boot was ever torn open for any period of time, then one may as well replace the joint..
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'll look for some info on repacking the CV, thanks. I still think I might have more than one problem though.
 

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earthworm said:
The noise during a right turn indicates that it is that side...
I thought if the click-clack was during a right turn, that meant it was the opposite CV? At least thats what I recall from when I had my driver's side driveshaft replaced because of a click-clack when taking right turns. I thought it had been as you stated, so when I saw them working on the opposite side of the car I went in and asked about it.

My personal guess is strut mounts. When they wear your start to hear it a little over bumps, and as it wears even more it becomes even more pronounced over bumps and starts to do a moany type sound on turns. I'm going to have to replace those and the shock inserts this summer. I'm loathing the thought already.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I have no "moany" sound whatsoever. Really on smooth highway or smooth road its perfect. Its only on wash-board type surfaces that I notice it. And again, it is the clack, or bump type of noise.

Would a CV joint make a noise even when you're tracking striaght and hit a bump if it were worn?
 

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Would a CV joint make a noise even when you're tracking striaght and hit a bump if it were worn?
I think if tracking straight and your CV joint was making noise, it would be making a click-clack noise all the time when in forward motion, not just when going over a bump.

I'm 95% sure that what you are dealing with is suspension related, not CV/driveshaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well that is definatly the case for me, when I'm going straight and hit a quick bump in the road, like the expansion joints on a bridge it does it. But less so on the highway at higher speeds.

I feel like I can't describe the symptoms well enough, but I'll try to do it even more:

1. As mentioned above, when tracking straight at low to medium speeds on quick bumps.
2. When I turn the steering wheel at low to medium speeds it does it once or twice from center to lock in either direction.
3. When I hit a bump with the wheel turned and held (as in not turning more) it does it more so than in the scenario of #1.

So basically when I park at work in a gravel wash-board parking lot it does it the worse, in forward and reverse.

From what I can tell the common similarity is that it does it more when not so much under load. Wouldn't a CV be worse under load? I kinda thought if the suspension wasn't under load there would be more play in bushings, but at higher speeds whether cornering or going straight there is more force to compress the bushings and to reduce excess play?
 

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Sounds like my problem too. Slower speed potholes and raised bumps in the road, bridge joints, except I really dont have it when i turn, just bumps. I believe for me its the lower ball joints.. I have poly bushings, that didnt help, and my mounts are fine.. so that is what i have narrowed it down to.

I would crawl under your car and check your ball joint boots and make sure they arent cracked. Mine are completley seperated.. :confused:
 

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Hi.
If you have clunks and grinds at parking speeds and when turning at these speeds or when taking up drive it is a sure thing that you have a loose subframe.

I know belive me.

It is usually the anchor bolts that attach the radius arm to the sub frame.

It is a known clunk clank or what ever you want to call it.

It is doubtful that your actual factory bush's are duff.

I should check all your sub bolts and TORQUE them to the specified levels.
The torque levels are very important as the subframe is an integral part of the chassis and cars tautness.

Dead
 

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RE:- Radius arm bolts. There is a pair of nasty ant-rattle spring /shims inside these mountings that:-

1) Don't work.
2) Stop you getting the radius arm off easily.
3) Don't account for the bolts being smaller than the bushing inner.

Pretty much "pants" really.

Not sure of ultimate torque setting to hold these on mine but it's more than "ugh, grunt!" but less than "GRRrr! ARGH!!!". i.e. they need to be tight. Mine clunked after I'd had them apart and torqued to the recommended setting - which is pretty tight anyhow.

Other rattly part you may want to look at is the ARB dropper links. The rubbers get compressed and loose. Also the bolts can snap. Cavalier ones fit and are cheaper.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I see the two new suggestions about ball joints and radius arm connections.

The ball joint issue would be corrected if I ordered the new suspension arm kit.

I actually had the driver side radius arm replaced at a dealer under warranty, but not the passenger side. This did seem to stop the noise, or reduce it at first, so maybe I should ckeck the passenger side. Anybody know that torque setting off the top of their head?

As for the sway bar links, I had those replaced under warranty about 30k miles ago and that noise was different, and under different circumstances, so I'm not too worred its that.

As for my plan, I have confidence to replace these worn parts myself, but I really don't want to replace something and have it not help my problem. I have a good local indy who will inspect my car with a short drive and a quick lift for $50 an hour. Probably what I'll do is go ahead and let him tell me what needs working. Of course I'll jot down a list of the things suggested in this forum. Depending on what needs the work I'll probably do it myself. But the way I figure, I would be spending $50 easily if I replaced the wrong thing, so I may as well let him take a look. This should happen on Monday.
 

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I have more of a scrunching sound from the front when making a left or right turns at 20- 30 mph (and slower) with dips or bumps. like a tire rub in some ways but have not seen any evidence of that on the tires or wheel well areas. I have 17" wheels with 215 45 tires. Any thoughts???
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Alright, well I went and saw my mechanic this morning about my noises. After a short drive he said 100% sure that it wasn't the CV's. I trust him.

So I asked what to do next. He said there are many choices, from doing the most likely and common single component to everything. He actually told me about this kit from genuine if I wanted to go all out. He said that he has put that kit on customer's cars before and that it is a great choice for the performance minded enthusiast that wants to just be rid of all the noises. He said there isn't much left to make noises after you install that kit. So that is what we're going to do.

I'm ordering the kit this afternoon, and will just add a set of sway bar drop links to this kit to make it complete. He guessed about 3 hours to install everything, and this will be done on Thurs the 23rd. I can't wait!
 
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