Ahhhhhhhhh! Has anyone ever seen this before?!
So, about year and a half ago, my '84 900 Turbo 8V would violently stutter around sharp turns if the gas was low. Turns out my fuel pump was mispositioned, so I took the pump out, adjusted it in its collar, and put it back in. No more stuttering, all was well. Or so I thought... I now realize there is a gradual leak that can eventually fill up the bowl of the fuel pump collar (and as you can tell by the residue, the level was even higher earlier).
In my opinion I made two errors when reinstalling the pump, the latter being fatal:
1. I reused the copper crush washers
2. When tightening the banjo fitting, I used the check valve as a backer, unknowingly loosening it every time I tightened the banjo. I hate doing this anyway, as I have nightmares that the wrench will slip and knock one of the electrodes off!
I'm planning on taking the damned pump out, using new washers, and tightening the check valve using the nut-shaped top of the pump as a backer, getting it as tight as Superman's godly fist. Once the fuel pump is back in, I plan to tighten the banjo according to SaabCentral's FAQ here:
Strangely enough, the car also reaks of fuel with the windows down but is just dandy with the windows up... WTF? Would this smell be related to the big leak? If it was, why would I only smell it with the windows down? Charcoal canister?(2) Forget about Bentley's advice to use a wrench to hold the pump outlet while undoing the fuel line's banjo cap nut; the sealing washer under the banjo prevents any wrench from fitting onto the flats. Instead, clamp large vise-grips onto the banjo itself (opposite the fuel line), then use a 19 mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the cap nut. Start with the vise-grip parallel to the breaker bar, so you get maximum opposing leverage.
Also, that year and a half ago when I removed the fuel pump, one of my manuals was talking about a fuel return line... Is that the tough black plastic curved tube coming from the top of the tank? It was totally disconnected from my car when I first investigated the fuel tank's innards, and the hard line itself doesn't fit at all with the male fitting popping out on the pump. Seems like some kind of flexible tubing that connected the line to the fuel pump totally disintegrated. Ever since the pump job I've been running with it disconnected. Is reconnecting this necessary? If so, what kind of hose material should I use to reconnect this hard fuel return line to the pump?
And one final mention: The car tends to stall right after I start it. I have to hold the gas so the car doesn't stall. But, if I let it conk out, it takes about 5 to 10 seconds and some pedal-pumping to get started again. Could this be because of leak, or could the check valve be failing on me, too? Or could the return line be the culprit?
So to sum up:
1. Leak at fuel pump banjo
2. Smelly with windows down
3. Disconnected fuel return line
4. Stall after start, extended crank
I'd love to hear everyone's wonderful fuel pump removal/replacement stories! It would help a whole lot. Thanks!