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One thing I really didn't expect to enjoy or use so much is the SID fuel mileage feature. I find myself fixated with getting the most out of a gallon of gas, and realize that every car should have this feature, so that everyone is more aware of the fuel (natural resources) they are using.

So what techniques can I use to improve mileage? I find that doing the same drive (I commute about 45 miles one way a couple times a week, all interstate, all ~70mph), I end up with some pretty varying numbers (from 28mpg up to 36mpg once). I don't think I am changing anything, but I would like to achieve 35mpg on a whole tank!

Has anyone found that different fuels (octane and brand) produce different fuel mileages?
 

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I tried using 89 with a fuel additive..but that didnt work my 9-5 felt very sluggish so I use addictive sometimes not all of the time with 93 octane and my car feel revitalize when i am driving it so I am going to stick with 93 octane. In terms of improving mpg..I try a lot of thing..change fuel filter, 93 octane..etc.
 

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Change your oxygen sensor annually if you're that concerned about fuel mileage, make it part of an annual maintenance routine.
 

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Oh man...somewhere in the basement of my house is a binder for drivers education that has ten or so tips on how to get better gas mileage/save gas. That's right, I kept all the paper work and such no joke... :confused:
 

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Diosnoche said:
Change your oxygen sensor annually if you're that concerned about fuel mileage, make it part of an annual maintenance routine.
I have had a faulty O2 sensor for quite some time. Which one should I replace? Or do we replace both of them? Since our dollar is spanking the 'green-back':p would it make sense to purchase the parts from the US; and if so where?
 

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kaltorak said:
I have had a faulty O2 sensor for quite some time. Which one should I replace? Or do we replace both of them? Since our dollar is spanking the 'green-back':p would it make sense to purchase the parts from the US; and if so where?

The other day someone gave me a Canadian quarter as change and at first I thought damnit...then I thought give it a few days and it'll be worth more than a U.S. quarter! :cheesy:
 

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kaltorak said:
I have had a faulty O2 sensor for quite some time. Which one should I replace? Or do we replace both of them? Since our dollar is spanking the 'green-back':p would it make sense to purchase the parts from the US; and if so where?
You always replace the upstream sensor first, Bank1 Sensor1, first. The post CAT sensor, Bank1 Sensor2, is not used for fuel metering, it is only used to measure CAT converter efficency.

Buy it from where ever you want, just remember you have to pay shipping cost if you do mail order, and maybe customs and duty taxes, and then you have to wait, and wait.

I'd recommend getting an OEM sensor, not a universal. Only use a universal if you are going to solder the connections to ensure a good connection. And make sure it is the right sensor! "There are five fundamentally different types of oxygen sensors: unheated thimble, heated thimble, planar, wide-band and titania. Within each sensor type, sensors vary in the design of the ceramic element, heater element and protection tube design, all of which affect sensor operation."
 

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Diosnoche said:
You always replace the upstream sensor first, Bank1 Sensor1, first. The post CAT sensor, Bank1 Sensor2, is not used for fuel metering, it is only used to measure CAT converter efficency.

Buy it from where ever you want, just remember you have to pay shipping cost if you do mail order, and maybe customs and duty taxes, and then you have to wait, and wait.


Cost me like 25 in shipping and i had it in 2 days.... with no duty and only taxes. Still beats 500 from the dealer.
 

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ParaMedic_Saab said:
Cost me like 25 in shipping and i had it in 2 days.... with no duty and only taxes. Still beats 500 from the dealer.
$500 from the dealer? Who buys anything from the dealer unless its a dealer only part. You just have to look hard enough, auto parts are cheap as long as you know where to go or have friends in the industry.

I paid $120 CAD for OEM Bosch 4-wire O2 sensors for my 96 V6, but then again I own my own automotive shop so it just a matter of making a call, 1.5 hours later in my hand.
 

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bntroberts said:
The other day someone gave me a Canadian quarter as change and at first I thought damnit...then I thought give it a few days and it'll be worth more than a U.S. quarter! :cheesy:
The canadian dollar is actually more than a US dollar now :lol: You got a deal
 

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Try slowing down to 55mph and see what kind of difference that makes.

Check psi on your tires
 

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Winter is right around the corner, so AC shouldn't be an issue anymore, but just in case you're still warm, just open the window...whenever I use AC my mpg drops by at least 3-4 miles.
 

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Originally Posted by Diosnoche:
I'd recommend getting an OEM sensor, not a universal. Only use a universal if you are going to solder the connections to ensure a good connection. And make sure it is the right sensor!
Bosch recommends using their posi-lock system for splicing O2 sensors rather than soldering them. If the sensor wires are not copper you'll have trouble getting a good solder connection unless you use a higher temperature torch.
 

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ParaMedic_Saab said:
i just bought some from eeuroparts.com 67 each, OEM. From the dealership, its 250 each.. you decide :)
Para, while on the site I was onlt able to locate the front O2 for $149.00. Perhaps the one for $67.00 was for your model year only? Are they all the same? I have a 99 9-3.
 

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I've been watching the SID mileage, and it's been dropping mysteriously. I used to get about 22-23mpg with mixed highway and suburban driving. But I just burned-through 12-gallons to go 182-miles; and 100-miles of that was highway-cruising in just one trip....and the stupid CEL is back-on again.

Other than a slightly-rough idle, which it's always had, nothing seems amiss in how it runs. Guess it's time for the heavy-duty injector-cleaner again.
 

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The rough idle and CEL are a good indication that something is not right - I doubt injector cleaner will sort it out. Methodical fault tracing and replacement of components for borrowed/bought known good ones will be a better solution.
 

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Believe it or not driving a bit faster worked for me.

I drove NJ to Pittsburg for the U.S. Open in June. At first I kept it around 70mph figuring to just enjoy the ride and avoid a ticket. I loaded up the CD player with some MP3 CDs. Has a nice hot cup of Starbucks and blue skies. How much better does it get?

Once I got past the NE Extension traffic eased and speed increased to a steady 80mph. I was already doing about 31 mpg at 70 and I picked up another 1 MPG when I cruised at 80mph.

Maybe it was the long cruise, maybe the 6 speed transmission and the engine hit the sweetspot at slightly higher speeds.

BTW. I typically get about 29 - 30mpg in regular driving. I have a 30 minute highway commute. One one traffic light!

2007 9-3 60th, Black Metallic.
John
 

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Methodical fault tracing and replacement of components for borrowed/bought known good ones will be a better solution.
THAT means an expensive(!) visit to the stealership...which is an hour's drive away. If they can't find something wrong, they'll invent or just break something. Plus, they gotten very stingy about their loaners for service customers; I'm not walking 35-miles home.

I had planned on replacing the plugs, so I figure I'll do that and the injector-cleaner and see what happans.
 
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