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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All-

Using a Tech2 on my 08 9-3 Aero question. As I’m troubleshooting a misfire.

I found the screen that shows knock/misfire counts, tho the history counts are all at zero and I was wondering how accurate are the current counts or if they even work with the ME9?

Thanks
270617
 

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They are pretty accurate, however they reset to zero after a pre-set timing .
So i would look at them when i actually feel a misfire to see which one is counting up.
Another thing on the V6, os that they could count up on the wrong cylinder .
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the tips. It was all on cylinder 5 on the first two warm restarts, then the next two times on 2 and 4.
Anyway, i have six new coils and plugs on order, as the current coils are not bosch, but some no-name brand. I will update once i gets these installed.
 

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Why not, however check all vacuum lines in the back of the engine, do u hear the brake vacuum pump run very often ?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When I first brought the car home (8 months ago) I need to replace a couple of the hard lines. The PO must have broken and then repaired with epoxy.
Over the last couple of weeks I have been back on that area checking grounds and connections, I’m confident there are no leaks. But I never say never, I will recheck when changing the coils and plugs. The brake vacuum pump is working as it should.
The only other oddity I came across was the OHM’s on the CPS. As I was looking for something breaking down with the heat. The WIS stated the OHM on the sensor should be 840 +\-10%. With the engine cold, the OHM’s are at 910, when the car is hot the OHMs are at 1.13k. Which is out of spec, tho not sure if this would be a problem or not. I have a 07 Aero, I need to compare the readings once I get the time. What are your thoughts on this?
It is not the expense of the sensor to change it, the issue is the rusted nuts in the down pipe Flange that needs to be removed.
 

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What do u mean by the pump working as it should be ?
Resistance values in any service info is usually measure at room temp (20-25c) and its normal if the component gets hotter for the resistance to read higher, so ur crank sensor should check out circuits wise (a scope test is the ultimate test for it).
Any exhaust issue down of the O2 sensor should be no problem as well.
So stick to replacing the plugs and coils initially with OEM, as it should be anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Sorry about the vacuum pump answer.
If the car is sitting overnight, when i put the key in (no starting of engine), i hear the pump turn on for about 8 sec's and then turns off. It stays off until i pump the brakes a bit.
if I leave the car off for a hour or two, when i get in and turn the key (but not starting)i don't hear the pump until the hit the brake pedal.

Thanks for the info on the CPS. But curious, how do you connect a scope lead? I don't want to puncture the insulation of the wire and don't think i can get to the connectors while it is plugged in.

I agree with you 100 percent about staying with OEM parts. Just waiting on the plugs, received the coils today.
I also found the plugs are NGK LFR6IX-11, these seem like a cheaper NGK then the NGK OEM's ones.

The more i dig into this car, the more i find things not done right by the PO. Missing bolts and loose grounds on the ECM...Broken O2 sensor connector....the list goes on.
This is where it is nice to have another 9-3 Aero in the family, helps with comparing things.
Thanks for your time and your experience.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hey one more thing i just thought of, comparing my two cars.
The "problem" one is a 08 and the other is a 07, both aeros.
We, the drivers in my family, all agree that the 08 is much much quicker. At first i thought it was tuned, but i have no way to tell one way or the other. The turbo gauge goes up to the red, but never saw it go into the red. When purchased it did have a "cold input filter" which I removed and replaced it with the OEM filter box
 

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ur vacuum circuit sounds healthy.
We use the ecu connector to connect a scope (but we dont do it anymore) as from experience on aeros we know if the sensor go bad there will be a code for it or the tach will stop working .
If i remember correctly, the 2008 came with few horses more than the pre2008.
And i would stick only with the oem spark plug number, as alternate numbers sometimes cause trouble if not now soon later (by stressing the coils)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I do have an update, I finally found the time to replace the plugs and coils.
Interesting discoveries. The plugs on cylinder 5 and 6 Both had a plastic/tar like Substance on the ring above the “nut”. At first I thought it was oil, but it is not. I also found the rubber boot on all of the coils to have a much larger diameter hole then the new Bosch ones.
Though I’m waiting on feedback from my daughter on the misses on a warm restart, I’m hoping it is resolved.
These coils are a no-name brand, wondering if the epoxy inside started to leak and the coil started breaking down causing my issues.
any thoughts?
 

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