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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I found this for $50 bucks. Its got the three bolt downpipe connection and it seems to fit. Anybody want to verify this for me real quick? For that price I'd go for it. It does have 100k on it, but like I said $50.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'll take a second look. Better yet, I'll post up pics of it. I'm really not interested unless its a "direct bolt-on." <--you know what I mean by this...
 

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This is definitely NOT a bolt-on turbo. To make that fit, you'll need some custom stuff, some elbow grease, and the ability to live without some things...like air conditioning.

First, you'll need a T3 flange welded onto your exhaust manifold to make it match with the Volvo exhaust housing. This will drop your DP down by about half an inch, so ground clearance will be lessened.

While the DP connection is three bolt, it's the wrong diameter, and the Volvo exhaust housing-to-DP connection has a funky inset lip where the Saab connection is a tapered mating surface. You can find a Volvo flange that can be welded on. I can get you the email of a guy I bought mine from.

(To eliminate the top two steps, find an exhaust housing from a 9000 AERO with a TD04 HL. Most of the Volvo 16Ts were in 6cm2 housings, the same as the Aero. I've been told the HL center housings are interchangeable. This will enable you to do without the welded flanges at all. More about this later.)

You'll need to "reclock" the turbo. Removing the retaining clips (snap rings) holding the center section and you'll find a small aligning pin on the intake side. Dremel this flush with the surrounding metal and you can line up the exhaust side and wastegate using your existing turbo as a guide. (Refer to the Stealth DSM guide for this....) Note: removing those clips is a beeotch. Took me like an hour on each. Ignore the suggestion to get the expensive retaining clip removal tool. It didn't work and I had to return it to Sears. I bought a cheap set of three for half the price and it was a snap to put them back in.

The oil and water feeds will be in different places, so you'll need custom lines. The water line coming down from the side of the block can just be lengthened with some fuel line hose and clamps. The oil return line is essentially the same.

On the intake side, there's something that looks like a second wastegate actuator. I think this goes to the Volvo boost pressure solenoid, but you don't need or want it, so a triangular metal plate fits nicely over that when you remove it.

Also....The Volvo intake side is huge, so forget about your AC. There's no clearance for an intake pipe, so you'll have to grind off part of the AC mounting bracket to even be able to fit an intake hose onto your turbo.

**** If you had an AERO TD04HL-15T, you could use the center section from the Volvo, reclock it, and keep the AC and everything else would be plug and play. If I had to do it all over again, this is what I'd do....or maybe a clipped 18....

As for driving impressions, I can't really give you any because I'm on stock software until my SQR box comes through. I know Frank was tied up with Kevin Yankton's programming, so I'm being patient...:cool: With my mods, I get a fuel cut at 4,050 RPM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well that definatly answered my inital question mike. I'll let this one pass I think...

So you're saying that you can use the "center section" from the Volvo. Is this the 16t part? And then the 18t would be the ultimate upgrade you mentioned?
Nick has got the clipped 18t with the 6cm2. This is what I'd really love to have (wouldn't we all, right?). Is the way to get this to use the hybrid of Volvo and Saab parts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I know that much about the housing. But he must mean the 16t exhaust wheel as the "center section" right? So that you would use everything else but this to make it a td04hl-16t/6cm2 as he mentioned.
 

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ah, the conter section is #13 in that pic. It houses the water/oil ports and contains the bearings that hold the shaft in place. This center section should be the same as a Saab unit. The only difference being the exhaust wheel is a little bigger.

nate
99 9-3 vert
 

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Snag the 16T unit, and try to find a shot Aero turbo. Take the center cention from the Volvo and use the intake and exhaust sides from the aero, and voila....a TD04HL 16T that is a bolt-up as you can get.

It's worth the extra money to find the Aero turbo...:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I can definatly see why its worth the money for the Aero turbo. That is what I planned to do in the first place. But it would be even better to get the better center like this 16T.

Is there a production turbo that has the 18T?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Found another prospect....

This one is also a Volvo, but I know that it is a td04hl-15g. So the difference being the g. He said its a 6 , but I'm not sure. Wouldn't make much difference if it works. So does the g thang work?

Thanks.
 

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They'll all work, but the issue is how much hassle do you want to go through to install it. You'll need pics of the exhaust housing to see whether it has a tapered connection to the downpipe.

If you can get it for short money, then it might be worthwhile, as you'll have to factor in a bunch of labor to get the housing to mate with the manifold and the DP.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Sorry mike, I should have been more specific. I guess what I really would like to know is what is the cheif difference with the g and t. I know some of the info, but I'd like to get it confirmed before I pay any amount. I'm not into the super custom fabrication, but maybe a little with some good help. But yeah, so the difference between g and t is what again?
 

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td04hl-16t/6cm2

Here's the breakdown:

td04hl - describes the center section

16t - describes the compressor wheel. 16 specifies the size, t specifies the pitch/shape of the blades

6 cm2 - describes the size of the exhaust housing

Thus, a td04hl-18t/6cm2 is the same turbo as the 16t except that it has a larger compressor wheel.

The difference between a 16t and a 16g is that the t-models have a more aggressive blade design than do the g's.

So basically, all td04hl-16t turbos have the exact same compressor wheels, center sections and exhaust turbines, the differences between them are in the compressor and exhaust housings.

If I'm mistaken on any of this info, PLEASE be sure to let me know.
 

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alright here is my .02... i would buy that 16t for 50$ then i would get a shot saab td04 take them both to a turbo rebuilder and just have them make me a 16t with a 6cm2 exhaust side.... i would not however get a bigger turbo than that, unless u plan on going real crazy with software and injectors and the like.

Personally i think your best bet woudl be to try to do what i just mentioned.
 
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