This is definitely NOT a bolt-on turbo. To make that fit, you'll need some custom stuff, some elbow grease, and the ability to live without some things...like air conditioning.
First, you'll need a T3 flange welded onto your exhaust manifold to make it match with the Volvo exhaust housing. This will drop your DP down by about half an inch, so ground clearance will be lessened.
While the DP connection is three bolt, it's the wrong diameter, and the Volvo exhaust housing-to-DP connection has a funky inset lip where the Saab connection is a tapered mating surface. You can find a Volvo flange that can be welded on. I can get you the email of a guy I bought mine from.
(To eliminate the top two steps, find an exhaust housing from a 9000 AERO with a TD04 HL. Most of the Volvo 16Ts were in 6cm2 housings, the same as the Aero. I've been told the HL center housings are interchangeable. This will enable you to do without the welded flanges at all. More about this later.)
You'll need to "reclock" the turbo. Removing the retaining clips (snap rings) holding the center section and you'll find a small aligning pin on the intake side. Dremel this flush with the surrounding metal and you can line up the exhaust side and wastegate using your existing turbo as a guide. (Refer to the Stealth DSM guide for this....) Note: removing those clips is a beeotch. Took me like an hour on each. Ignore the suggestion to get the expensive retaining clip removal tool. It didn't work and I had to return it to Sears. I bought a cheap set of three for half the price and it was a snap to put them back in.
The oil and water feeds will be in different places, so you'll need custom lines. The water line coming down from the side of the block can just be lengthened with some fuel line hose and clamps. The oil return line is essentially the same.
On the intake side, there's something that looks like a second wastegate actuator. I think this goes to the Volvo boost pressure solenoid, but you don't need or want it, so a triangular metal plate fits nicely over that when you remove it.
Also....The Volvo intake side is huge, so forget about your AC. There's no clearance for an intake pipe, so you'll have to grind off part of the AC mounting bracket to even be able to fit an intake hose onto your turbo.
**** If you had an AERO TD04HL-15T, you could use the center section from the Volvo, reclock it, and keep the AC and everything else would be plug and play. If I had to do it all over again, this is what I'd do....or maybe a clipped 18....
As for driving impressions, I can't really give you any because I'm on stock software until my SQR box comes through. I know Frank was tied up with Kevin Yankton's programming, so I'm being patient...
With my mods, I get a fuel cut at 4,050 RPM.