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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, As some of you know I added a 88 C900 Convertible to my stable.
One question thats always been a hot topic here is the use of synthetic oils.

I use Moble 1 on my Talladega and decided yesterday to put it in the C900......knowing well in advance I may develop a leak around that rear pully seal. Well I did.

My question is......will that leak eventually stop? It's just a drip right now. Or should I bale on the Moble 1 and return to regular motor oil. I wanted to bale right away yesterday but my Saab buddies around here were saying to leave it alone, watch the level, and give it a few days.

Anyone agree with this logic?

Thanks

Michael
 

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Synthetics are fine if you use them to begin with on a new or low milage motor. I always tell people don't switch on a higher milage vehicle because you will spring leaks. I believe normal oil is great just change it more often if you want better protection. I change the oil in my Mazda every 1000-1500 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
trackside said:
It won't get better - why not fix the seal?
Thats basically what this thread is all about. What kills me is I just did the clutch and slave on that car friday, then as a second thought, decided to change the oil.
No biggie though...I'll watch it and let it drip and replace the seal next weekend, as long as I keep it topped up, I don't see any problems driving around like this for a week.

Thanks
 

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If you have a turbo car even fresh mineral oil will coke in a turbo - synthetic won't. It's not hard or expensive to change out a few oil seals in an old engine and ensure the longest life for your expensive turbo. Seals leak because they are worn - replace them!
 

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mr rx-7 tt said:
I change the oil in my Mazda every 1000-1500 miles.
If you had to pay UK prices for oil, unless you were racing the car each trip you might find that you could extend that interval a little without causing any damage. ;)

I changed to fully synthetic at 160,000 miles with no problem. That's on a 14-year-old car with a high pressure turbo. There were a couple of small leaks in evidence even before I changed, mainly under the dizzy cap. I don't lose any off the dipstick at all so I'm not bothered.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Matthew said:
So the oil is leaking from the rear of the engine (front of the car)? If so, then you should replace the flywheel pilot bearing at the same time.
Yes it is. I'm going to order my seal tomorrow. Thanks for the heads up on the flywheel pilot bearing too.

Michael
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Matthew said:
You changed the clutch slave cylinder and engine oil at the same time. A slave cylinder leak would deposit fluid on the ground in much the same place as a rear crank oil seal leak.

Are sure the leaking fluid is engine oil?
Yes..100% sure it is engine oil. ( and not brake fluid ) it's coming from the rear pulley.
 

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Jezzadee said:
If you had to pay UK prices for oil, unless you were racing the car each trip you might find that you could extend that interval a little without causing any damage. ;)
The rotary is a different animal. I run high boost and after 1000 miles the oil picks up the smell of gas. On high boosted rotaries it's common to change the oil very frequently. It cost me $15.00 to for the oil and a filter vs 6 grand for new streetported rotary engine and labor so it's cheap insurance.

Jezzadee said:
I changed to fully synthetic at 160,000 miles with no problem. That's on a 14-year-old car with a high pressure turbo. There were a couple of small leaks in evidence even before I changed, mainly under the dizzy cap. I don't lose any off the dipstick at all so I'm not bothered.
I put some synthetic in the Honda after 50,000 and about 15,000 miles later the oil pan started leaking a small amount.
 

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I switched to Mobil1 with well over 200K miles on the clock and it does not leak any more, or any less (she's always damp underneath..:confused: )


Maybe it's in my head, but the car does run better, particularly right after the change. My 99, who never went to synthetic, was pretty much the same; smoother running after the oil change - I was young and energetic then, so I changed the oil and filter every two weeks.
 

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So the "rear" engine seal is actually the front engine seal and vice versa (engine in "backwards") Make sure you're ordering the right one. One is orange/red, the other is black.
 

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But I can't for the life of me remember which gets the red and which gets the black. But my guess is the red one goes at the clutch end and the black at the pulley end.
 
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