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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I bought some speakers to swap out the factory malaysians. On the dash I found some old used 3.5" mb quarts that were made in germany. The baskets were much bigger than the stock ones, so I had to dremel the dash holes bigger to fit them, but they eventually went in and the grilles hide all the carnage. They work great. The back got the newer maxxsonics mb quart made in germany discus'. And although wimpy, they work fine for fill.

For the doors I got some OLD NOS made in West Germany 6.5" Blaupunkt speakers. I used to be really into car stereo once upon a time and was shocked to find out the old german brands are all made in china now. Might as well by some focals.


Anywho, I did notice that all 6 saab speakers were 8 ohm which is odd for car stereo, but there's been enough talk around here that putting in aftermarket 4 ohm speakers wont hurt the head unit so I plugged away. I had to modify the trim ring to fit the blaupunkts, but I got everything in and turned on the car and uh-oh

The door speakers aren't working... I checked the polarity (wire #2 is positive everywhere in the car right?). Does the separate stock amp for the door speakers care about the impedance more?

So I started wondering if the stockers I have ever worked. I thought about it and I'm not sure.

So here's my gameplan. Reinstall stock door speakers and confirm they work. If they don't I need to check the cable from the HU to the amp, and it sounds like the amps like to fry anyways, so I might just have a *** amp.

If the stockers work, then it's my ancient Blaupunkts. Right?

Sick of reading yet?
Sorry
 

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The stock door speaker amp is fine with 4 ohm speakers. I've had mine running 4 ohm speakers for nearly 10 years now without an issue. If it runs the stock ones, but not the Blaupunkts, then it sounds like your Blaupunkts are shot.
 

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Do the 9v battery test to the door speakers. With correct polarities observed, the speaker should "push" out. With polarity reversed, the speakers will "pull" in. I'd check the fuse 1st for the factory amp. You might of popped one during install. I don't think the speakers were/are 8ohm from the factory. I'm pretty sure they're 4 ohm. 8 ohm is rarely ever used in anything car audio with exception of DVC subs where people run them parallel to get 4 ohm mono with a healthy amp. I have a spare amp from my 9-3 SE that worked before I pulled the factory head unit. If you find that yours is no good and want a replacement factory one, I'd let it go for $20+ shipping which will probably be $5 flat rate through the post office. Sold AS-IS though as I can't make guarantees on your end. Otherwise go on Craigslist and buy a small aftermarket one.

I'm running an a Pioneer head unit and running a small amp with it that I had laying around. The dash speakers get run off the head unit, then the Infinity doors and Rock Ford Fosgates 6x9's are tied to the amp. Sounds decent to me. Figured I throw it out there as an example of a way to run a set up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I swapped back in the stock speakers and they don't work either, which leads me to the amp. I'll check the fuse, and if that doesn't work I'll definitely buy your amp, thanks. I'll let you know
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK, so I ran outside hoping to find a burned out fuse. I originally checked the fusepanel by the drivers door. #25 is listed as both central locks and amplifier. Since my locks work, it is unlikely, but I checked the continuity anyways. It's a good fuse.

Then I saw a silver sticker on the back of the amp itself, peeled it back and found a 15A fuse! Hooray, this must be the culprit. Alas, another good fuse that shows continuity across the points and even to ground. Which struck me as odd, but makes better sense the more I think about it. I guess.

With the cover off, nothing on the board looks obviously fried, but since the above poster will sell me a cheap working amp, I'm not going to test all the little components on the board.

Just a fyi because you got me thinking that I was crazy about the stock speaker impedance. I checked. Door and rear speakers are indeed 4 ohm like almost all car audio.

BUT dash speakers are 8 ohm from the factory. The 4ohm replacements I put in work fine.

Here's some cell phone pics while I was in there:


I just noticed the valve keepers that found a new home on the magnet from being on my bench!

 
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