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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey everyone,

Ive been doing a suspension overhaul on my car as of late. I replaced the front almost everything and that seemed to help.

I replaced the rear struts and ever since it seems my tires are feathering, mostly rear driver side, its a lot worse than the rear passenger.

Do you think maybe the springs? I took out my sub as I thought maybe it was way too heavy and my tires weren't inflated enough to counteract the weight but just trying to think of other things such as:

Do the struts go in a specific way at the bottom? you know where it bolts into the frame? does the strut angle a specific way where the bolt goes through(I dont quite recall now and am wondering if maybe I put it in backwards)


Also after I changed it ive been hearing this rattling which sounds to be coming from the rear driver side, It sounds like...how to put this...metal rattling, like a loose bolt shaking back and forth? I know I tightened everything down and double checked...Ive been having trouble with my parking break and need to replace those and maybe thinking that was it? I need to search around more for some picture tutorials or walkthroughs on changing the parking brake disks(no luck my first go around)[edit: did find a good read on replacing them, however one of my tx-30 heads is stripped on one rotor...do you think id have to drill it out?]


anyway...just trying to pick some brains.

Thank you,
Bryan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Im also in the middle of solving the trunk leak....Ive cleared drain hoses and siliconed almost everything in the hatch, It leaks where the speaker shelf is, right above the last screw towards the back of the car, right above that is a sheet metal seal...


the only thing I can think of to do next is to take down the sunroof and check that seal.

Anyone have any insight on sealing that without sealing the entire sunroof shut?
 

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The rear shocks can bolt in in either direction. I can't see how that would affect alignment in any event.

Have you had the rear alignment checked to see what's out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The rear shocks can bolt in in either direction. I can't see how that would affect alignment in any event.

Have you had the rear alignment checked to see what's out?

The Alignment is okay...not 100% because I need shims but its never feathered out the tires before.

The mechanic said its probably because I replaced my struts. They also never rotated my tires last time I asked so that could also be a reason.


Im going to buy new tires soon once these ones have had their last breath but I am hoping any new ones wont feather out.

Im also just curious what that rattle noise is...hard to point out.
 

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Well, you really need to know where the alignment is now when you are feathering tires - not where it was before the problem started. If you are off in toe or camber then you will get improper wear - where it happens will depends on what's off. You might have hit a bump and bent something that is causing the problem. It's a solid axle so bending one side could throw everything off.

I would very much doubt that your problem is the shocks. Take a look and how shocks are mounted: the bottom is bolted into the axle, but the top turns freely. So it can't change toe in, the axle is in control. It can't change camber either within the normal range of motion: the hubs are bolted hard to the axle. If your mechanic thinks the shock change changed your toe or camber, let him explain how.

The only thing I could imagine would be if you put in really lousy shocks with stiff springs and the car was bouncing up and down a lot - then you might get some funny weight distribution - but it could only change camber when the car is up high in the air, with the tires detaching partially from the pavement. Seems unlikely unless you're having a heck of a bouncy ride.

As for the rattle, I would look into the parking brake. It has components in the hub. Also the parking brake cable, which is in a flexible housing in the same area. I'd be more suspicious of the exhaust system hitting something. Wiggle it when cold and see what it sounds like.
 

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Changing the rear spring dampers cannot affect alignment unless the wrong units are used.
dampers , aka shocks, now aka struts....
Maybe the springs should be re-newed as well........and the bushings....
These parts will be worn on any vehicle 15 years of age and 200K on the odometer..
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all the input. I have had this car constantly aligned, every time I change this, or that in the suspension. I had it aligned after I changed the rear shocks. I am waiting for the shims to get in and to find a reputable saab mechanic around here who also does alignments(the one in the list for the community doesnt do alignments here) and I dont trust the people who align my car to take time out to actually put them in other than just say they put them in.


Like I said, I did have an extremely heavy Sub in the back that would cause terrible harsh bumps if I ever hit a...well...bump.

Since taking it out the car holds itself quite a bit better now, I suppose its like the whole bag of bricks in the trunk idea.



The car is only low 100k and 13 years old. The bushings should be replaced as they are pretty cracked or should I say "wrinkly"


I cant imagine the springs are bad though.
 

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See ifyou can find an alignment shop that
1. Gives you a print out of the before and after off the Hunter machine
2. Let's you bring the car back for a free re-alignment within some time frame

Once you get the specs, do your own shim install. Bring it back and see how you did. Sometimes it does not work out as predicted so you need to re-adjust. Note that correcting both toe and camber will require some custom shim cutting to avoid overlap and that's not something the shop will want to do unless they are very good.
 
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