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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 220k '93 Aero is in dire need of a suspension overhaul. I plan on keeping the Aero springs, and using Aero-spec Bilstein dampers. The emphasis is on improving handling, but keeping/improving the factory ride quality. So, the question is, what should I order to replace? Even with 220k, the only visible damage is torn boots on the outer tie rods. I want to replace everything that is prone to wear, but I also don't want to waste my money. If I save enough, I can buy SAS sways.:D

The list so far:
Bilstein dampers
Front control arm bushings: rubber fronts, poly rears
Front ball joints
Sway bars: SAS front & rear if I can afford it, otherwise I'll rebuild with poly bushes and end links rear, new rubber bushes and end links front
Front strut mounts
Rear end: other than the sway links/bushings, what should I replace back here?
What else am I missing?
 

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Why rubber front A arm and front sway bar bushes?


Klim
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've found a number of threads related to this, it seems that by going poly in the rear, and rubber in the front, you get the same effect as a stiffer rear sway bar. Basically, the stiffer rear bushings help to reduce understeer and make the car feel more neutral.

As for the A-arms, I plan to use poly for the front-rear bushing. The front-front bushing will be OE rubber. Supposedly it's a good compromise between reducing torque steer, increasing response, but without increasing harshness.
 

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Cool, never heard of this! Learn something new every day:)
What about tranny poly, that really reduced torque steer in my case.
One of the pros for the poly bushings is also a practical one, they last for a very long time.

Klim


onewhippedpuppy said:
I've found a number of threads related to this, it seems that by going poly in the rear, and rubber in the front, you get the same effect as a stiffer rear sway bar. Basically, the stiffer rear bushings help to reduce understeer and make the car feel more neutral.

As for the A-arms, I plan to use poly for the front-rear bushing. The front-front bushing will be OE rubber. Supposedly it's a good compromise between reducing torque steer, increasing response, but without increasing harshness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Tranny poly is on order, should have it next week. Plan to go poly in the tranny and one upper motor mount, rubber everywhere else.

My only knock on poly is it tends to transfer more vibration. More responsive, but more vibration. I'm trying to walk that fine line between comfort and performance.

Really, the purpose of this thread was to figure out what I need to replace. I'd like to have everything on hand BEFORE I tear apart my entire car, otherwise it will just sit while I wait on parts. But, as I said above, I don't want to buy stuff that doesn't really need replaced. Like I said, if I can do this cheap enough, I can get SAS bars.
 

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I would suggest just pulling the trigger on the SAS swaybars before starting to dismantle your old suspension. I have a 95 CSE with only 133k and the rear sway bar (in its entirety) was a lost cause when removed for suspension work. The little swaybar to body pedestals were in appauling condition and as far as I can tell only available through the dealer and the sway bar end bushings are a PITA to R&R. The SAS kits do away with the pedestals and mount directly to the body:) and include all the requisite poly bushings which is fantastic. I did have the foresight to replace the rear/front control arm bushings with poly units and it has help tighten up the front end considerably. Unfortunately I kept the stock springs, coupling them with KYB struts all around and the results are horrible, thing drives like a Buick Roadmaster with broken leaf springs.
 

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Springs won't be your problem. Shocks have to be carefully matched to springs or ride control goes out the window. Are your KYB's adjustable? If not, then the only cure is new struts preferably from Sachs Boge or Bilstein.
 

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No, these are just the GR2/gas adjust series so there are no adjustments possible, however KYB could have done a MUCH better job of tuning these things to the 9000 as they are nowhere near stock, hmmm come to think of it the supplied strut top nuts did not even fit in the mounts, had to use the old lock nuts.Weird since the KYBs I put on my 95 ng900 were great, set on my Renault R5 (stop laughing) were great also, ditto for the set on a Jetta 2...set i put on my Merkur xr4Ti were not so great.

So far I have had a lot of problems with replacement parts with the 9K especially all the rubber suspension bushings and engine mounts I have recently purchased. With regard to Onewhippedpuppy I would stay far, far away from any scantech bushings or mounts of any kind, the poly rear control arm bushings from eeuroparts.com seem to do the trick but one came in defective and had to be sent back. There are little aluminum "caps" located around the front control arm bushings that corrode badly and crack with age so I would order 4 of those before starting on the front end, mine did not fit correctly and I had to bore out and chamfer the mounting holes.
 

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your problem is easy...u have struts and shocks that are not well suited for stock springs.....not a good match...get stiffer springs (BG, HR, votgland, etc) and all will be well...
 

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Yup, if the shocks are too tight for the springs then they can "pump down". The rebound setting can be so stiff that the springs won't push them back up fast enough after a bump which can lead to the shock actually compressing the spring over a series of bumps.Shocks MUST be matched to the spring rate for the package to work properly. The stock springs seem to work very well with the stock struts and shocks.

The stock Aero set up is very, very good.
 

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I took the 9K out for a shopping foray yesterday, all I can say is I wish I had something else to drive. The handling/ride is terrible but the struts are not overdamped (relative to spring rates), the suspension just rolls and heaves out of control over bumps and through the corners with an exagerated rebound. My beef is that these are replacement struts, they really should work with the stock springs. My last car was an 04 GTO, 6spd, poly bushings, tons of fun but just too much car with lots of personality for daily driving. The Saab was supposed to remain stock for the most part, I just didn't realize how much of a headache that would be. For now I have bigger fish to fry, my throwout bearing is screaming at me:cry: .
 

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Struts sound like they are too soft. I like the standard Sachs Boge gas pressure struts and shocks in the 9000 so I recommend you get a set.

The shock/strut controls the spring and the spring controls the wheel movement. Oddly, the shock absorbers are not, it is the spring that absorbs the road shocks. The shock absorber (damper in UK usage) is there to absorb the motion of the spring. It is critical that correct shocks be fitted. If the shock is even a tiny bit too soft or stiff the handling of the car will be wrong.
 
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