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I think t5 is before 03 and t7 is after and that's your ECU
This is incorrect information...

For the turbocharged NG900/OG9-3s everything up to 1999 except the Viggen is T5. 2000 and later (1999 and later for Viggen) is T7.

The "T" stands for Trionic...which is Saab's version of engine management. The "Tri" in Trionic refers to the three areas it primarily manages: the turbo, the ignition and the fuel injection. The number refers to the iteration.
 

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This is incorrect information...

For the turbocharged NG900/OG9-3s everything up to 1999 except the Viggen is T5. 2000 and later (1999 and later for Viggen) is T7.

The "T" stands for Trionic...which is Saab's version of engine management. The "Tri" in Trionic refers to the three areas it primarily manages: the turbo, the ignition and the fuel injection. The number refers to the iteration.
If you drive a T5 block with a T7 head can we call it a T6?
 

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Headlight challenge

I'm fixing a 2008 9-3, but I'm having trouble finding parts at a decent price. I need a left xenon headlight, but it costs a fortune, so I didn't know if it would be a good idea to sell my right xenon headlight for two halogens?? Would it be a 'downgrade' and is it worth it or should I just bite the bullet and buy a xenon?
 

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I bought some silicone hoses to replace vacuum lines. They are not oil rated as far as I know.

I replaced the one to the fuel pressure regulator, I think it helped my idle. I also replaced the one from the PCV nipple.

1) What damage, if any, do I stand to gain from not using an oil rated silicon line for the PCV line?

2) I was looking at the other vacuum lines to replace. The brake booster tube looks like a specific part so I will ignore it. The one that goes down to the purge valve(?) in the fender, it looks slightly bigger. Is it? what size do I need.

3) Am I missing any other lines I should replace for a non turbo 2.3? If so, what size/type tube do I need?

Thanks
 

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On the NA engine all you have is the one from the PCV nipple and to the FPR, on a turbo (T5) you would have ones to the MAP sensor and the BPV.
The evap lines are bigger, twice as big so 5/16. Some regular 5/16" fuel hose should suffice.
No real damage by using non oil rated silicone, it will sweat a little bit and discolor, I just replace that section every other oil change or so before it gets too bad.
 

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SID interchangeability

Are the SIDs generally interchangeable? Such as: putting one from a 3 door into a 'vert?
 

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Are the SIDs generally interchangeable? Such as: putting one from a 3 door into a 'vert?
Yes. The only limitation is that if you put a sedan SID into a 'vert and the SID hasn't had the "I'm a 'vert" bits flipped via a Tech II, it will not show the roof messages. You still get a beep, but no messages on the SID.

It works OK in the other direction so I'm not sure why they didn't just make them all 'vert capable, but maybe they anticipated needing to know body style for something else - or maybe they were just being tight brained like engineers are.
 

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I am wondering, why does my car even have a cam position sensor? Is it because Bosch only makes distributors with one incorporated inside? The car will not run at all with a bad crankshaft sensor, but the car starts and runs fine with the camshaft sensor disconnected. Does the cam sensor add anything other than information redundancy? And, why couldn't the ECU use the cam sensor to supplement the crankshaft sensor information if it were to go bad? Just curious about all this
 

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No Cats, removing CEL

:roll:Hey everyone! I recently purchased a 1999 Saab 9-3 turbo hatchback, base...It's been rather neglected, and obviously owned by a dumb kid with no car appreciation. Anyway, I'm trying everything to get this beast back on the road respectfully, and I have run into a number of snags.

When I purchased the car, it had no exhaust...it had a downpipe..and a resonator and muffler. Someone had stolen it off of the Saab while it was on the car lot, apparently.

The first O2 sensor is still there...I don't know if it's working or not.

I've connected the front part of the down pipe to the rest of the exhaust using a flex-pipe and some equivalent exhaust tubing.

Obviously I'm getting an O2 CEL code. Is there anything I can do, besides putting full cats on it? It's not may DD, more of a project car.


I read that you can off-pipe the 2nd O2 sensor a couple of inches after the location of the cats and you can 'trick' the ECU to thinking 'all is peachy'...

Any other suggestions? Thanks! New to Saab, loving this community!

~Hoops
 

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:roll:Hey everyone! I recently purchased a 1999 Saab 9-3 turbo hatchback, base...It's been rather neglected, and obviously owned by a dumb kid with no car appreciation. Anyway, I'm trying everything to get this beast back on the road respectfully, and I have run into a number of snags.

When I purchased the car, it had no exhaust...it had a downpipe..and a resonator and muffler. Someone had stolen it off of the Saab while it was on the car lot, apparently.

The first O2 sensor is still there...I don't know if it's working or not.

I've connected the front part of the down pipe to the rest of the exhaust using a flex-pipe and some equivalent exhaust tubing.

Obviously I'm getting an O2 CEL code. Is there anything I can do, besides putting full cats on it? It's not may DD, more of a project car.


I read that you can off-pipe the 2nd O2 sensor a couple of inches after the location of the cats and you can 'trick' the ECU to thinking 'all is peachy'...

Any other suggestions? Thanks! New to Saab, loving this community!

~Hoops
I heard of people using "spark plug nonfoulers" but I'd recommend you just going the route of having someone tune out the 2nd O2 or you could do it yourself with T7Suite.
 

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Hoop:

Can you explain better what part of the exhaust is missing? Here's the stock layout from front to back:

- downpipe goes from the turbo via hard pipe to a flex section near the left side of the engine and from there by a hard pipe to the cat and then a couple inches to a connector.

- flex section has a hard pipe, a flex joint, and a hard pipe (total about 3' long.)

- rear section has a resonator, a long pipe from car center over the axle to the rear muffler.
 

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Hoop:

Can you explain better what part of the exhaust is missing?
The car had just the down pipe. Everything behind that was gone, with the exception of some piping (maybe 8") leading to the resonator...the resonator and the rear muffler were intact.

SO, I created a system from the down pipe to a small straight section, to a flex pipe, then a slight angle and straight pipe to the resonator & muffler with no cats.
 

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I heard of people using "spark plug nonfoulers" but I'd recommend you just going the route of having someone tune out the 2nd O2 or you could do it yourself with T7Suite.
I have read a little about the T7Suite, but I'm under the understanding that I have a T5 motor. Does this still work?
 

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I have read a little about the T7Suite, but I'm under the understanding that I have a T5 motor. Does this still work?
There is a T5 suite. You can tune out the second sensor. That may or may not pass inspection testing where you are. Setting up T5 suite will cost you some money, probably as much or more than used downpipe by the time you are done. But, you can then do some tuning.

Some people put a spacer into the bung hole for the second sensor so that it's less in the stream than it normally would be, which reduces the emissions level detected.

As an alternative, contact this guy, who is giving away parts from his '99. If he has a good downpipe, it could simplify your life.

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=546153
 

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I am wondering, why does my car even have a cam position sensor? Is it because Bosch only makes distributors with one incorporated inside? The car will not run at all with a bad crankshaft sensor, but the car starts and runs fine with the camshaft sensor disconnected. Does the cam sensor add anything other than information redundancy? And, why couldn't the ECU use the cam sensor to supplement the crankshaft sensor information if it were to go bad? Just curious about all this
generally the cam pos sensor is there to tell the ecu what the phasing of the engine is.

ie, in a 4 stroke, you can't really tell by the crank position alone whether it's intake or power (and similarly, compression/exhaust).

as to why it works without a cam pos sensor, idk! ;)
 
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