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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I drove out to a Mountain Cabin to vacation with my family and my 2003 Saab 95 wont start. I replaced the fuel filter at a gas station with a filter from Auto zone which helped it start multiple times and get me here but now it wont start again and I am 2 hours in the middle of nowhere. I am thinking about ordering a fuel pump and doing the job here at our cabin but I have no tools with me.
Can someone tell me what tools and what is a place I can get a new Fuel pump fast becasue Autozone says they can get me one but its not OEM should I go for it or should I just order an OEM one and get it delivered to somewhere I can pick it up with my brothers car luckily he is here TGfor family. .Also Autozone's scan tool would not work for my car and neither would Advanced Auto I have had trouble with Autozone in the passed but some Autozones can do it and some can not. What is a good scan tool I can buy for myself that will work 100% for my Saab?
2003 Saab 95 Linear 2.3t 215,000 Miles on it Manual standard transmission.

Thanks guys I could really use some quick responses and tips to successfully and most easily replace this fuel pump.

Below is the story of what the Saab is doing.

2 weeks ago I went to mechanic and got the A/C recharged turned out someone took out the Fuze to the air conditioner so we replaced that and now the A/C works.
Around this same time 2 weeks ago I started hearing a humm noises when I accelerate and the turbo engages like one of the hoses to the vacuum system popped off but I couldn't find which hose it was so I was driving like that for a week or so until I did an oil change and finally found the hose and reinstalled it.
So 2 days ago I'm thinking everything is good now and driving home when I noticed my car kinda jolted like it was loosing fuel for a quick second like a millisecond. I thought it might be related to the A/C being on so I turned it off and started diving without it I do not remember ever feeling the jolt happen with the A/C off but it could be unrelated because today I was pulling off the highway and the engine shut off when I came to a complete stop at a red light and the A/C was off at this time. Officially this was the first time I experienced the car not starting for me.
I pushed the car to the side of the road and ran to a gas station and got a can and some premium unleaded and ran back, I wasnt sure if the gauge was broke and was giving me a false reading. The extra fuel didnt work so I decided to hit the fuel filter with a wrench a few times and then it started up again hesitantly to get me to Autozone where I bought the new fuel filter and then shortly after I stopped to get gas and the car wouldnt start again so I changed the filter at the gas station which helped the car enough to then drive back to Autozone and turn off to do a scan test and then start to drive to Advanced and stop to do the Scan tool and then start again and drive with zero issues until I reached my neighbors cabin which I thought was mine and now it wont start and is stuck in my neighbors driveway.
Just another challenge! I cant wait to fix this who is with me!
Gotta Love it!
This is what it is all about!
It is Time!

Thanks and please don't hesitate to send me advice and tips and love.
Saab guy named Joshua
SAAB Life
 

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Before you start throwing parts at it, is the fuel actually pump dead? Lift back seat - pump is under the circular cover. No need to remove the cover at this stage. When the key is first turned to ON the pump should run briefly to pressurise the supply.

The crankshaft position sensor can prevent a start although the usual symptom is difficulty starting when the engine's hot. When you crank it over, does the rev counter react?

Check the connector is secure to the DIC. I know of one car where it somehow worked loose.
 

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SAAB 95 2004 Linear Wagon
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first step would be to check if the fuel pump is working or not.
  • when you turn the key on (before cranking ), do you hear the faint noise from under the back seat of the fuel pump engaging ? (it should make a humming noise for 4 or 5 sec when it initially pressurizes the fuel system)
  • there is a release valve on the fuel rail where the injectors are, you can use that valve to check if the fuel pump is working correctly and able to push fuel to the injectors (the valve is a small black plastic cap which you can turn left/right with a screwdriver to open/release it). be aware however that when you gently open the valve while fuel is under pressure (assuming your fuel pump is working) it can spray out (so dont get it into your face or on a hot engine etc,,). to test, release/open the valve gently with a screwdriver while the engine is cranking, and observe if fuel sprays out.
 

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You can also try hitting the gas tank firmly with your fist or other non-destructive object. If the car then starts, it was the fuel pump. Note, that might not get you home unless the entire trip is downhill. When the fuel pump went on my 9-5, I was able to restart it three or four times, but never for more than a minute.

I would definitely check if the fuel pump is indeed working before replacing it.

Note, if the fuel pump is bad, the engine typically loses power gradually, well not that gradually, but it tapers off to nothing, it doesn't typically jerk. A jerk or misfire is much more likely to be an ignition system problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Dear SAAB Family,
Here is the recent update.
Thanks for the quick responses!

This morning I was able to start the Saab but had to turn the motor for about 3 times longer than usual and I pressed the gas peddle for good measure not knowing if that would help or not. It ran enough for me to drive the 1 minute drive from my neighbors house to my driveway where I left it idle to see if it will die which it died after about 10 minute idle.
I tried to start it directly after it died just to see if it would start and it did not start maybe because like you guys talked about the heat and having to let it cool down.

Fuel Pressure Test results - Today I depressed the fuel pressure release valve near the injectors and fuel sprayed out as you can see in this youtube link -->
. Next is a link to the video of the fuel pump noise when the key is moved to the on position -->
Would the crankshaft position sensor be an easier and safer place to start before I start working on the fuel pump based on the information we have about the pump successfully spraying fuel and seemingly making noise when key is turned on? But there is no engine light displaying and wouldn't a faulty Crank sensor throw a code? Here is a video of me turning the key intending to check to see if the rev indicator would move when I tried to start it and to my surprise the car started up -->
. Note that after 10 minutes of idle the engine shut off again. I then Cranked the engine to try to start and it would not and the rev indicator does not move at all while the engine is cranking.

I checked the DIC connection is good. I replaced the DIC with a lifetime warranty DIC unit 3 years ago. When I bought this car the connector was faulty and missing the red retainer clip to hold the connection so I experienced this connection falling out of the engine from high rev vibrations. The problem is fixed since I got the clip from a junk yard.
 

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If there is good fuel pressure after the engine has died, then it's not the fuel pump. Then yes the crank position sensor would be the top suspect. Especially if the engine is cutting out sharply, rather than gradually.

I don't think the slow start and needing the gas pedal is really a significant thing at this point, I would guess it's to do with the underlying problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If there is good fuel pressure after the engine has died, then it's not the fuel pump. Then yes the crank position sensor would be the top suspect. Especially if the engine is cutting out sharply, rather than gradually.

I don't think the slow start and needing the gas pedal is really a significant thing at this point, I would guess it's to do with the underlying problem.
When the engine died after a 10 minute idle it slowed down and almost died and then kept running and then 30 seconds later officially died.
 

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Well, now that it's died, how's the fuel pressure? If you get nothing, you could crank for a bit and check again. If still nothing, it's the fuel pump.

Obviously if there's good fuel pressure, the pump is okay.
 

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If you have a can of starting fluid you can shoot some in the throttle and check to see if it fires. This will help identify if you have a fuel delivery issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, now that it's died, how's the fuel pressure? If you get nothing, you could crank for a bit and check again. If still nothing, it's the fuel pump.

Obviously if there's good fuel pressure, the pump is okay.
I checked it after it died and a quick squirt of fuel came out not much but a decent little spray.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If you have a can of starting fluid you can shoot some in the throttle and check to see if it fires. This will help identify if you have a fuel delivery issue.
I do not have starting fluid but I could get some when I go to get the CPS tomorrow morning I am also getting the fuel pump just in case the CPS doesn't work. I wish I could find someone who has a tester DIC so I could rule that out as well.
 

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as the previous poster suggested, do the next step in fuel pump checking if the car started and then stalled a few min later.

the typical behavior of a faulty CPS would be that the car gradually becomes harder to start when the engine is hot/warm, but starts normally when cold. after a few weeks these symptoms gradually worsen and the car might not start at all when warm/hot , but then still starts ok when cold (until the CPS fails completely, and then wont start the car anymore). that is how my failing CPS behaved, and it would be the more typical CPS fault behavior reported.
from what you described it seems less typical for a gradual CPS failure, but it is not ruled out. if you have a spare one it would be good to check.

some additional things to check:

- electrical issues: the saab 95's seems very dependent on a good battery that can provide the required current under load (which is heaviest at car startup). a failing battery might still turn the ignition over, but become unreliable to start the car (this would be worse on a cold engine, and easier to start the car on a warm engine, so not your current description). however if your alternator is gradually failing ( and the battery is older and weaker), it wont charge the battery correctly while the engine is running and will drain the battery the longer you drive (eventually causing the engine to slow while you are driving and then could stall). this would be simple to check with a volt meter (measuring battery with engine off, and then again with engine running to see if the alternator is working correctly). without a volt meter you could improvise to get some of the information by simply turning your headlights on/off and seeing how strong they are (with engine running ok, and when engine starting to stall like you described when you leave it idling, or when engine refuses to start).

- check vacuum hoses and PCV pipes, to make sure none have become loose or detached (partic at the throttle body, and make sure you check the one attached to the back of the throttle body near the firewall)

- check engine oil level , inspect spark plugs, check electrical connector to DIC is secure.

- the DIC would be one of the first suspects with the errors you describe, and even with a "lifetime warranty" they can fail or start causing intermittent errors. if you dont have a spare 2e hand one you can use to test this, removing your current DIC and you can visually inspect the pods to see if one or several are leaking, cracked, or obviously damaged. the DIC is also a less likely cause if fairly new, but worth checking
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I drove out to a Mountain Cabin to vacation with my family and my 2003 Saab 95 wont start. I replaced the fuel filter at a gas station with a filter from Auto zone which helped it start multiple times and get me here but now it wont start again and I am 2 hours in the middle of nowhere. I am thinking about ordering a fuel pump and doing the job here at our cabin but I have no tools with me.
Can someone tell me what tools and what is a place I can get a new Fuel pump fast becasue Autozone says they can get me one but its not OEM should I go for it or should I just order an OEM one and get it delivered to somewhere I can pick it up with my brothers car luckily he is here TGfor family. .Also Autozone's scan tool would not work for my car and neither would Advanced Auto I have had trouble with Autozone in the passed but some Autozones can do it and some can not. What is a good scan tool I can buy for myself that will work 100% for my Saab?
2003 Saab 95 Linear 2.3t 215,000 Miles on it Manual standard transmission.

Thanks guys I could really use some quick responses and tips to successfully and most easily replace this fuel pump.

Below is the story of what the Saab is doing.

2 weeks ago I went to mechanic and got the A/C recharged turned out someone took out the Fuze to the air conditioner so we replaced that and now the A/C works.
Around this same time 2 weeks ago I started hearing a humm noises when I accelerate and the turbo engages like one of the hoses to the vacuum system popped off but I couldn't find which hose it was so I was driving like that for a week or so until I did an oil change and finally found the hose and reinstalled it.
So 2 days ago I'm thinking everything is good now and driving home when I noticed my car kinda jolted like it was loosing fuel for a quick second like a millisecond. I thought it might be related to the A/C being on so I turned it off and started diving without it I do not remember ever feeling the jolt happen with the A/C off but it could be unrelated because today I was pulling off the highway and the engine shut off when I came to a complete stop at a red light and the A/C was off at this time. Officially this was the first time I experienced the car not starting for me.
I pushed the car to the side of the road and ran to a gas station and got a can and some premium unleaded and ran back, I wasnt sure if the gauge was broke and was giving me a false reading. The extra fuel didnt work so I decided to hit the fuel filter with a wrench a few times and then it started up again hesitantly to get me to Autozone where I bought the new fuel filter and then shortly after I stopped to get gas and the car wouldnt start again so I changed the filter at the gas station which helped the car enough to then drive back to Autozone and turn off to do a scan test and then start to drive to Advanced and stop to do the Scan tool and then start again and drive with zero issues until I reached my neighbors cabin which I thought was mine and now it wont start and is stuck in my neighbors driveway.
Just another challenge! I cant wait to fix this who is with me!
Gotta Love it!
This is what it is all about!
It is Time!

Thanks and please don't hesitate to send me advice and tips and love.
Saab guy named Joshua
SAAB Life
 

·
Registered
Joined
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70 Posts
Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
as the previous poster suggested, do the next step in fuel pump checking if the car started and then stalled a few min later.

the typical behavior of a faulty CPS would be that the car gradually becomes harder to start when the engine is hot/warm, but starts normally when cold. after a few weeks these symptoms gradually worsen and the car might not start at all when warm/hot , but then still starts ok when cold (until the CPS fails completely, and then wont start the car anymore). that is how my failing CPS behaved, and it would be the more typical CPS fault behavior reported.
from what you described it seems less typical for a gradual CPS failure, but it is not ruled out. if you have a spare one it would be good to check.

some additional things to check:

- electrical issues: the saab 95's seems very dependent on a good battery that can provide the required current under load (which is heaviest at car startup). a failing battery might still turn the ignition over, but become unreliable to start the car (this would be worse on a cold engine, and easier to start the car on a warm engine, so not your current description). however if your alternator is gradually failing ( and the battery is older and weaker), it wont charge the battery correctly while the engine is running and will drain the battery the longer you drive (eventually causing the engine to slow while you are driving and then could stall). this would be simple to check with a volt meter (measuring battery with engine off, and then again with engine running to see if the alternator is working correctly). without a volt meter you could improvise to get some of the information by simply turning your headlights on/off and seeing how strong they are (with engine running ok, and when engine starting to stall like you described when you leave it idling, or when engine refuses to start).

- check vacuum hoses and PCV pipes, to make sure none have become loose or detached (partic at the throttle body, and make sure you check the one attached to the back of the throttle body near the firewall)

- check engine oil level , inspect spark plugs, check electrical connector to DIC is secure.

- the DIC would be one of the first suspects with the errors you describe, and even with a "lifetime warranty" they can fail or start causing intermittent errors. if you dont have a spare 2e hand one you can use to test this, removing your current DIC and you can visually inspect the pods to see if one or several are leaking, cracked, or obviously damaged. the DIC is also a less likely cause if fairly new, but worth checking
The Battery was replaced last year but you never know with Autozone Batteries. I will get a volt meter tomorow when I go to the store to get the parts. I will take a look at the DIC and the Plugs even though the plugs were replaced 2 years ago with platinum plugs and have less than 20,000 miles on them. Enine oil is good and just replaced with full synthetic like always right before my long trip. DIC connector is secure. I dont know about the alternator but I will test that with the Volt meter tomorrow as well.
I am thinking the CPS is going to do the trick but we will see!
Thanks,
Joshua
 

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SAAB 95 2004 Linear Wagon
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as andy just spotted on the video (and doug suggested earlier to look for), if the tachometer does not move on cranking your current start problem is highly likely to be caused by a faulty CPS. if your car cooled down overnight it can also explain why it was starting the next morning. and the other fault behavior you listed in the previous days can be caused by it (even if not a typical pattern of gradual malfunctioning). each time you went to get fuel in a jerrycan, or your fuel filter, etc... the engine would have cooled and made it easier to start with a faulty CPS.

if possible try and get a bosch CPS
 
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