[cascade]

I was wondering if someone could tell me what is the size of the top strut nut and what would be the best wrench to handle it.

I would like to use a torque wrench by i guess the only way to do it is to get one of those fancy sockets with 1/2 connector on a side so you can snap a torque wrench on and still use a small socket via the nut socket to hold the dumper rod.

I guess i could use a regular ring spanner but the how do you go about the correct torque.

Any suggestions?

btw is the socket size the same as for the oxygen sensor?

 

[98se420]

I just did my strut mount today, the strut nut is 7\8 which is equivalent to 24mm but not entirely sure.... Use a torque wrench....

 

[cascade]

Did you use a regular 7/8 socket with a torque wrench? but then how did you manage to hold the dumper rod from turning?

btw ..7/8 should be closer to 22mm...from simple conversion but i dont know if this is true for sockets

 

[98se420]

I put a wrench on the damper rod and tightened it using a 7/8 wrench, didnt torque it down because it seemed like it wouldnt work without it spinning, well see how it holds up, but im sure someone will chime in as to how to keep it from spinning

Did you use a regular 7/8 socket with a torque wrench? but then how did you manage to hold the dumper rod from turning?

 

[cascade]

Iii seeee...looking at this link:
http://photo.platonoff.com/Auto/20050210.Saab_NG900_Front_Suspension/?i=20050215b.Final_touch.jpg

the torque wrench is actually used on the dumper rod..and the nut is just being held in place....

is this ok for the dumper rod i must ask?...it is much easier way then to have a special socket for the nut with a side connector for the torque wrench but is it ok to turn the dumper rod like that?

or maybe the rod is not actually turning cuz you have to work the spanner around the nut but the torque is picked by the torque wrench on the rod ...so the rod doesn't turn but when you turn the nut the torque wrench is going to click when reaching the torque limit anyway????...i dont know ..anyone with ideas

btw 98se420:
did you reuse the thrust bearing and spring seat?....how does it work for you so far ...did you get any noise..creaking when turning wheels all the way..left/right

 

[98se420]

Well i wish i can help you out with the damper rod but i have no idea and dont want to tell u the wrong info...But ya i did reuse the spring seat and even the thrust bearing because i forgot there was a new one until i had it all assembled again(doh!), but that strut mount was 5k old so bearing was good.The strut mount developed a crack on the mount itself and was pushing the rod thru the mount so had to replace... And so far its perfect no odd noises or any of that.. Going to check everything again soon and tighten it all up just in case.

Iii seeee...looking at this link:
http://photo.platonoff.com/Auto/20050210.Saab_NG900_Front_Suspension/?i=20050215b.Final_touch.jpg

the torque wrench is actually used on the dumper rod..and the nut is just being held in place....

is this ok for the dumper rod i must ask?...it is much easier way then to have a special socket for the nut with a side connector for the torque wrench but is it ok to turn the dumper rod like that?

or maybe the rod is not actually turning cuz you have to work the spanner around the nut but the torque is picked by the torque wrench on the rod ...so the rod doesn't turn but when you turn the nut the torque wrench is going to click when reaching the torque limit anyway????...i dont know ..anyone with ideas

btw 98se420:
did you reuse the thrust bearing and spring seat?....how does it work for you so far ...did you get any noise..creaking when turning wheels all the way..left/right

 

[cascade]

ok..........so i was looking for a special deep socket size 22 metric(i think this is the right size) for the strut upper nut on 93...the nut sits deep inside the strut mount..and the socket should allow for a smaller socket to hold the damper rod....

I went to Autozone and Advanced Auto...and looked at Northern Tools but all i was able to find was 7/8 oxygen sensor open socket..i bought one but i am not happy how it sits on the nut...it reaches the nut but it does not fit like a glove..the oxygen socket has a little dents where the corners of the nut are touching and I cant imagine applying higher torque on it without rounding the nut

I found this tool that would be probably perfect it is 22mm and 21mm ..but $40 bucks is just crazy
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Tools/Audi/Suspension+tools

So what kind of socket or wrench do you people use to deal with that nut?

Is it possible that the standard nut size is 21mm?
Links showing the right tool would be much appreciated.

 

[Harquebus]

In the platonoff guide it appears the tools are a simple metric combination wrench (open and box-end) and 3/8 drive hex bit connected to the torque wrench.

Everything on these cars is metric. Good thing too as fractional fasteners, even though I have long experience with them, are just a hassle (too many numbers to remember).

Invest in a good set of tools now so you're not chasing down bits and pieces. Craftsman is one of the best mid-range tools. Made in the good ol' USA and has a lifetime warranty. I also use a few Harbor Freight "Pittsburgh" tools but shy away from those made ostensibly in China, preferring Taiwanese (noticeably better tooling, less machine marks) or even Indian manufacture.

 

[cascade]

Well the problem is that in platonoffs guide the strut mount on 900 is very different then one on mine 93...

^^^^ this is on my 93 ..the lower image shows the top of the mount..the damper rod end with the strut nut is deep inside that hole on top ...so the socket has to be deep enough (offset oxygen sensor didnt fit) and needs to have open top so the damper rod can be held in place when torquing the nut..also it has to be slim enough so it fits inside that metal cover

on the 900 on the other hand

^^^ the dumper rod sticks out above the strut mount so you can use an open wrench and it is much easier

also in platonoffs guide the wrench size for the nut is 24mm....that is too big on 93 cuz you wouldn't event be able to fit socket 24mm thru the edge of that metal plate...

so i am just confused about the size of the nut on 93 and the right socket which would allow smaller socket for the dumper rod..it looks like it is either 22mm or21 mm and the best tool i found is here:
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Tools...spension+tools
but $40 bucks....

i already have a 7/8 oxygen socket but it sit a little loose on the nut so i am probably going to return it since it doesnt fit all the way on the oxygen sensor either(wire is to much in the way)...i got it cuz some people suggested that 7/8 should work fine on that nut...but to me it is slightly too big ...so i either i have 21mm nuts from factory or .2 something mm difference between true 22mm socket and 7/8 is to big to properly handle that nut

so anyone with 93 that was ably to replace/ work on the strut please advice what did you do to handle the strut nut and the dumper rod the same time and what kind of tools did you use..

 

[cascade]

OK so partially answering my own question ..i was just able to place an old spark plug socket on the strut nut..the socket is 13/16 so it is around 20.7mm..and it actually fits..tightly but it does ..so from now on i am going to assume the strut nuts in my 93 are 21mm...i guess from here i could go either with something like this
http://www.zdmak.com/wbstore/main.asp?action=PROD&PROD=VW3186&CTMP=1
for $26

or just take a deep 1/2 21 mm socket...file sides so i can grab it with an open or jaw wrench ..and make the 1/2 drive slightly bigger to be able to put 1/4 or 3/8 extension rod through with 8mm socket that will sit on the damper rod...in this case the torque would have to be measure through 8mm socket...

 

[Oscuro]

Nick T. has a little writeup on his site:

http://trolltuner.com/?p=74

 

[cascade]

Oscuro:

Great link..thank you very much ...this is it!

Moderator...i think this threads subject could be marked as SOLVED..i think many 93ers will benefit from this information .

Just checking eBay and there are some true 21mm spark plug sockets available from UK around $15 price mark....but i guess you could use 13/16 sae if it fits nicely ...it needs 1/2 drive to let 1/4 extension through...and i guess the taller the socket is the more room it is going to have inside for the 9mm socket (at least my strut rod tip is that size)

 

[shub]

I have a 1999 9-3, which had the struts "replaced" in 2007, by some questionable mechanics. They were supposedly, "brand new", but since removing them I can at least deduce by their markings that they are junkyard struts. I am glad I am learning about this stuff, so I don't have to trust some of the less honest people out there in the field. The strut mounts are of the correct 9-3 type, but I am not sure about the damper rod.

I am in the middle of taking my strut apart right now, and came across trouble similar to this thread. From what I understand, though I haven't seen an image, is that there is a hex depression in the top of the damper rod. However, there is no hex insert in the top of my damper rod, it's just flat on top. So even if I manage to get the 13/16 spark plug around the 21mm nut, there will be nothing I can insert into there to hold the damper still. Is it possible that the last people who changed my struts installed an improper damper, perhaps from a NG 900? I am thinking maybe they bought the wrong dampers, but managed to install them anyway by securing the actual piston part of the damper still while they torqued it?

 

[NickTaliaferro]

Glad to help. Since I grew up with a 13mm wrench in hand lots of this is just basic to me but key assistance to others. Thanks for the kind words.

The inch socket is easier to find and in most toolkits.

 

[cascade]

Hey...on my 1999 93 i am able to use 13/16 -goes on the nut - and 10mm(or 9mm cant remember) socket - that goes on the dumper rod hex tip (on my original dumpers its not a depression for a hex key it just looks like a hex nut for a socket)- inside the 13/16 on a 1/4 (2inches long) extender going thru the 1/2 hole in the 13/16 spark socket..and then the torque wrench attaches to the 1/4 extender via 3/8 adapter...using 1/4 extender and 3/8 adapter feels a little bendy but i think you can get more or less correct torque..better then just tightening the nut on itself..

my 13/16 is an old type (i guess) and has the 1/2 connector hole the same size thru the socket so you can actually put a 1/4 extender thru it ..it also has a rubber insert to hold the plug that i was able to pull out..when i was looking at 13/16 spark plug sockets at the store they all were magnetic type and the 1/2 connector was only half an inch deep or so and then there was a round opening that was too small to fit a 1/4 extender thru...so i guess these are no good for this procedure.

Will paste some pictures on the weekend so everyone knows what i am talking about.

 

[busaboy]

A pass-through socket set is just the thing for this kind of work.

I got a set a while ago, and it is the hot lick!

 

[cascade]

A pass-through socket set is just the thing for this kind of work.

I got a set a while ago, and it is the hot lick!

Yeah..i was thinking about getting a set of these but i only found one at my local northern tool store and it was only up to 3/4 and 19mm...it was almost $50.......so since the dumper nut needs 21mm socket I am going to stick with old type 13/16 spark socket with big enough connector hole to put 1/4 extension thru..

on what other occasions would pass thru set be useful ?