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Discussion Starter #1
I have not done durometer tests. But this much is clear. Maptun are correct. On this case ProParts are supplying a quality OEM quality part.
threaded nuts. Bell shaped steel Center bonded mount tube. Curved edges , welded top plate with bell shaped curvature on the Center of their top mount plate. Silver zinc plated. Flange bolts with serrated flange to resist unwinding.
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The Moog has square flat pressed top and bottom parts that are then sandwiched together and spot welded in six places. The strut mount nuts are threaded.The flange bolts are not serrated on the flange a bearing is supplied. Part to part the maptin proparts mount is less money than the mood but does not come with a bearing. So SHOCKING EVERYONE INCLUDING ME ? I will install ProParts.
 

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Your Moog strut mount looks like the 1999-2001 style, and the ProParts one looks like the 2002+ style. That might explain quite a few of the differences, but not all. I had a Moog strut mount fail on my 2000 9-5 in less than 50,000 miles, so I wasn't overly impressed with it. KYB also makes their mounts in India, so I have a feeling that there are quite a few companies whose products come out of the same factory.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Your Moog strut mount looks like the 1999-2001 style, and the ProParts one looks like the 2002+ style. That might explain quite a few of the differences, but not all. I had a Moog strut mount fail on my 2000 9-5 in less than 50,000 miles, so I wasn't overly impressed with it. KYB also makes their mounts in India, so I have a feeling that there are quite a few companies whose products come out of the same factory.
I agree. I order by year and cross reference part numbers on rock auto. I think moog Are jjunk. I also hate pro parts with a passion. But this pro parts mount is identical to my OEM mount. Which I had put back in the car. So letting folks know that it is possible. Pigs can fly. Democrats can be reasonable. ProParts can make good parts. Whodathunkit? My take.
 

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MOOG frustrated me today!

I just finished doing upper and lower ball joints on one of our work vans (2007 Ford E-250), driver's side done, (some grief and cold but done, doing it on the floor in garage at home during COVID lockdown) passenger side had everything ready to go back on the van, last item upper ball joint grease zerk install....no threads on the joint.:mad:

I would have had to remove the freshly installed lower joint (and probably screw it up somehow) to get a tap in there, I decided to just put the plastic plug back in and call it a day...330,000 km 2007 rusty old van...a non greased brand new upper ball joint...that's the least of it's worries.

I suppose it could happen to any manufacturer but it ticked me off messing with it for a half hour.
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Discussion Starter #5
I share your distress. Upper control arms avalanche. Dorman. 5000 km finished ; upper ball joint necking out on the arm in rebound normal driving. OEM arms good for 150,000 km
So far. Moog is junk
 

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Thirty five bucks a joint for Moogs (ya ya worth every penny ?) , I didn't even consider asking FOrd.
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Oh ya and ...zerks on the uppers are 3/8, lowers are 5/16 c'mon people you're just not trying. :rolleyes:
 
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