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Let us know what you think of the strut mount quality. I reused my original bolts with the Monroe mounts I have, although one was rusted hard into the original strut mount and snapped when I tried to loosen it. I got another from Pick-n-Pull. $70.00 doesn't sound too bad for OEM mounts. If mine seem to go bad in the near future, I might see if I can get the misses to approve $140.00 for a pair that will likely outlast the car. :)
 

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Let us know what you think of the strut mount quality. I reused my original bolts with the Monroe mounts I have, although one was rusted hard into the original strut mount and snapped when I tried to loosen it. I got another from Pick-n-Pull. $70.00 doesn't sound too bad for OEM mounts. If mine seem to go bad in the near future, I might see if I can get the misses to approve $140.00 for a pair that will likely outlast the car. :)
Will let you know Jeremy. Paid around $70 for the one side. When I replaced the front struts 30,000 miles ago, I only replaced the bearing but not the strut mount. Learned my lesson, its best to replace struts, bearings and mounts at the same time.
 

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Received the parts in the mail. The URO strut mount with bolts and URO bearing look solid construction. It does not indicate place of origin. I assume it is made in Germany and not in China. The Bolts screw nicely on the Mount. The threads were painted and it took a little effort with my fingers to get them going. Anyone knows the torque specs for the strut mount bolts?

Observation: the URO bearing fits loosely on the strut mount. It feels there is 1/16 horizontal play. The SAAB OEM Bearing (Made in France) fits tight around the mount and there is no horizontal movement. Used a small flat screw drive to pry out the SAAB bearing from the URO Mount. That surprised me.

The SAAM OEM Strut dust seal is to protect the bearing. Its worth buying for a few extra bucks.

The other two pictures provide a comparison between the SAAB OEM bearing (Left ) and the URO bearing (Right).

The strut mount is a solid piece of metal. What can possibly go bad with it? In my estimation, the most likely issue is the bearing and not the mount unless the mount is cracked or threads are stripped. Any opinions?
I will use the SAAB Bearing and keep the URO as a back up.

Will let you know after the installation
 

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The strut mount is a solid piece of metal. What can possibly go bad with it?
There is rubber inside, the strut rod is connected to this rubber bushing.
You can check when the strut is mounted in the vehicle on top, but not at the bottom. Move it around a little bit and it will go back to the original position.
 

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Removed the strut and checked integrity. Everything seemed ok. But since it was taken out, I replaced the strut mount and bearing, and reinstalled.

The grinding noise did not go away. At this point, there are new tie rods, fairly new end links, less than 30,00 miles on KYB struts, new strut mount and bearing.

The squealing sound can be heard when turning the wheel and more so when turning to the left. Grinding sounds when going over bumps also.

I think I am left with two options, either bad Lower Ball Joints or a Bend Strut. The sound comes from the upper strut area but I am thinking that it could originate from the ball joint ( still original) and travels upwards. I injected high quality grease with a needle in the ball joint but it did not make a difference.

So, next time, I will replace the two ball joints with a couple Moog ball joints with grease fittings and see what happens. If noise still persists, it leaves me no other choice than replacing the 3 year old KYB strut.

I like to hear your suggestions.
 

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just for testing you could dismount one side of the sway bar, see here: Front Struts

lower ball joints could be tested if you dismount them and check for any play / tight movement. Injection of grease from above will most probably not help as it cant reach the lower side.
 

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Disconnecting one front sway bar link and taking the car for a ride really did expose what to look for, for me. I would not have believed it would have made that much difference. For me it turned out to be the sway bar bushings themselves where it mounts to the subframe. During trouble shooting, when I replaced a mount there was nothing visually wrong with the mount and it proved ok when I put a new one in and reinstalled a new strut. I should have done more diagnostics before throwing a part I was convinced was wrong only to be proven that I was wrong and not the part. I would definitely suggest disconnecting one sway bar link and taking the car for a drive.
Good luck
 

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just for testing you could dismount one side of the sway bar, see here: Front Struts

lower ball joints could be tested if you dismount them and check for any play / tight movement. Injection of grease from above will most probably not help as it cant reach the lower side.
After reading a few threads, it appears that those noises are common with SAABs.
Raised on the lift and dismounted the sway bar link. The strut assembly squeals the same way when the wheel is turned manually. The only original part is the ball joint. I ordered two OEM ball joints and will replace them next week.
I may have issues with sway bar bushings and subframe bushings (only replaced the two rear bushings) but my issue is not associated with those two.
It will be a good idea to point my GoPro camera on the suspension and check for movement.
Definitely an interesting car...........
Thanks guys.
 

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Question on the orientation of the strut bearing.
The OEM bearing has the white color side and the black color side. The White is wider/flat bottom and the black is narrower, rounded and grooved. I positioned the back/grooved side up and the white at the bottom. I checked various websites and see conflicting information. Is it possible that, all along, the issue was on the wrong placement of the bearing? Please advice.
The picture is from the old bearing that I took out. The top side is the grooved and bottom is the flat side.
 

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Removed the struts and checked the strut bearing. The URO mounts and OEM strut bearing combo is not recommended. The narrow side needs to go on the lower side. The way I had it, caused the wider side to get stuck in the metal sleeve. Had to pry it out, re-grease the bearing and place it in the right direction. The Strut squealing stopped. That corrected one of the issues. Now I can remove a strut and re-install in less than 1 hour.

When I turn the wheel slowly, there are no sounds. But when turning them fast, there is another metal to metal sound that travels up the strut. I don't think its the ball joints. Did the pry bar test and they barely move. But I am sure after 186,000 miles,not a bad idea to replace them anyways. Lower ball joints work hard.

The sounds must be a combination of subframe and stabilized bushings. Replaced only the two rear subframe bushings with Poly a couple years back. I thinks its worth replacing the remaining four subframe and stabilizer bushings.

VtSaaber, did you change the subframe bushings before replacing the stabilizer bushings?
 

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On most cars that use those SKF strut bearings, they'll only fit properly one way. I know on my NG900, which uses the same bearings, they sit in a tapered metal cup, so the thinner tapered side has to go down, which agrees with what LEP3 said. On that car, at least, it's very obvious when the bearings are upside down.
 

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I did a complete (well, almost) suspension refresh about 18 months ago, new struts, front control arm bushings, sway bar links, and the two subframe bushings. This past fall, when it started to get cold, I developed a clunk in the front end. I replaced the sway bar links even though I could not see any play in them because in the past I had a clunk, couldn't see play but the clunk went away when I replaced them. Off the car there was a small amount of play. I took a video of the strut mounts and there was about 1/2-inch of vertical movement in the strut mount so I replaced the strut, mount and bearings, still had a clunk. I disconnected one sway bar link and drove the car around. The clunk was gone and it turns out to be the sway bar mount bushing at the subframe. I do not have any other noises that I can tell, but then again I am a little hard of hearing and don't always wear my hearing aids.
Have you checked the coupling in the steering wheel shaft ? I haven't any experience with that but some members here have had problems with it. How about tie rod ends ?
Good luck and keep us posted with what you find.
 

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I did a complete (well, almost) suspension refresh about 18 months ago, new struts, front control arm bushings, sway bar links, and the two subframe bushings. This past fall, when it started to get cold, I developed a clunk in the front end. I replaced the sway bar links even though I could not see any play in them because in the past I had a clunk, couldn't see play but the clunk went away when I replaced them. Off the car there was a small amount of play. I took a video of the strut mounts and there was about 1/2-inch of vertical movement in the strut mount so I replaced the strut, mount and bearings, still had a clunk. I disconnected one sway bar link and drove the car around. The clunk was gone and it turns out to be the sway bar mount bushing at the subframe. I do not have any other noises that I can tell, but then again I am a little hard of hearing and don't always wear my hearing aids.
Have you checked the coupling in the steering wheel shaft ? I haven't any experience with that but some members here have had problems with it. How about tie rod ends ?
Good luck and keep us posted with what you find.
Thanks Vtsaaber. I will do a drive test after dismounting the one sway bar link to find out about the stabilizer bushings.
I will research the coupling in the steering wheel shaft and on the surface, it appears something that could be an issue.
Wish I had more free time.....but work gets on the way.....
 

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On most cars that use those SKF strut bearings, they'll only fit properly one way. I know on my NG900, which uses the same bearings, they sit in a tapered metal cup, so the thinner tapered side has to go down, which agrees with what LEP3 said. On that car, at least, it's very obvious when the bearings are upside down.
The 9-5 is very similar but its easy to place the bearing in the wrong direction. My OEM bearing was stuck in the tapered metal cup and used a flat screwdriver to ry it out. Lesson learned though. Narrow side goes down.
 
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