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Discussion Starter #1
My 2001 9-3 started to make very strange noise. Periodically makes a series of clicks or gurgling( maybe 20 to 30 seconds) and than returns to more or less normal behavior. I was trying to locate the source of these noise with the stethoscope, and I think is coming from front right corner of the engine compartment more specifically from that elbow leading to the turbo. Elbow to which rubber sleeve from the air filter is hooked up and also bolt from breather pipe banjo. That noise appears with or without AC and also while just idling on the driveway. I appreciate any help or idea what that can be or how to find it. I need to know at least where to start....
 

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Discussion Starter #2
After more investigation today I narrow down the source of the noise to WATER PUMP. Before starting to dinging in all these what has to be removed to get access to the pomp what else I should check to make sure that this is the pump. I didn't notice any significant leaks (my engine is supper dry) but on the last drive (~75 miles and hot outside) the temp gage was higher than usual. I appreciate any hints, from this wonderful forum,as far as what to do, what to inspect and what to replace at the same time.
Thanks a lot in advance
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
How many miles on the car? When was it last replaced?
Sorry, I have to change my diagnosis again. I was checking again, mostly to see if there are any leaks. For that I rise the car and removed bottom air shield. That gave me extra access from underneath. I can say almost with certainty that the nise is coming from AC compressor. The noise is only when compressor is not working. When AC and fan is on noise disappears !!!!. I verified that few times. I believe it is something wrong with the clutch ????
At the same time didn't see any coolant leaking (from underneath). The car has 138k, I didn't have any problem with that side of the engine and don't have any record of what happened before 110k.
As always I count on help and support of this forum. Please write me some suggestions for the next steps.
 

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AC compressors can definitely make noise from the clutch. My opinion is that you should just replace the entire compressors. It's cheap, and it will eventually die anyway. Replacing it is not difficult to do yourself, and you'll do yourself a real favor by replacing the drier and expansion valve at the same time. Get it recharged, or learn to do it yourself, and then you have like-new AC for another 10 years.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I checked on Eeuroparts and compressors are ranging from $200 to $400. Plus recharging and accesories it can be pretty expensive. Is it possible to fix just cluch? Or bearing? Would it help me to diagnose with the drive belt out?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Right now i want to bypass AC by putting shorter drive belt. But for future I do have few questions. First how to recharge? I was adding R-34 refrigerant occasionally when it was low. Is the process the same? Second , where exactly drier and expansion valve are located?
Thanks a lot
 

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To recharge properly you need a scale. To recharge at home, you do it by pressure using manifold gauges. A complete tool set will set you back about $200. If you were adding refrigerant before, you have a leak and that must be addressed.

The dryer is located behind the front grille, the valve on the firewall. They are both easily accessible and easy to change. You'd be really making a mistake rebuilding the system without replacing them.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Right now i want to bypass AC by putting shorter drive belt. But for future I do have few questions. First how to recharge? I was adding R-34 refrigerant occasionally when it was low. Is the process the same? Second , where exactly drier and expansion valve are located?
Thanks a lot
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks a lot. As I said right now I will go with bypassing a/c condenser. But later wil try to restore A/C. By the way I was recharging other car not Saab, but I guess the process is the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
One more question. I also noticed that teperature gage generally stays at the higher position than usual, which is much above high. Can this be explained by malfunction of the AC?
 

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Unlikely... beyond unlikely. High temps are typically caused by cooling system problems - clogged radiator being #1.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Unlikely... beyond unlikely. High temps are typically caused by cooling system problems - clogged radiator being #1.
I already changed drive belt and it looks , as you predicted that the temp is still high. Also, I noticed that fan is still working long time after killing the engine. I didn't noticed any leaks or losing any coolant. Should I flush the system? Or what else I can do to verify that it is radiator causing a problem?
 

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You can try a flush, that may yield results especially if the coolant was left in there too long and there is scale/corrosion built up in the system. Cooling systems work properly when there is efficient heat transfer from the engine to the coolant, and from the coolant to the radiator. Anything which inhibits that transfer will impact temperatures. The pump is there to water moving to improve that transfer function, and the cap is there to increase pressure and improve the heat-carrying capacity. There's ultimately not too much going on. :)
 

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If your A/C bearing is bad and the belt is slipping under load when it wiggles, you will get reduced cooling and higher temps. Loosen the belt and check the A/C bearing for play. If it has play, that's likely your answer.

I'm in the opposite camp from Jvan on replacing the compressor when the bearing or clutch is bad. The bearing can be replaced along with the clutch. You can avoid the discharge/recharge routine. Many of the compressors run a long time with a bearing/clutch replacement. There's a guy who sells kits and rebuilds compressors for a living and he will tell you to do the bearing/clutch.

I have a new A/C clutch I would sell you cheap. The bearing is a standard item you can purchase that I can direct you to. You'll need a press or someone with a press to change the bearing as it's pressed into the pulley. Probably $75-$90 in parts that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
You can try a flush, that may yield results especially if the coolant was left in there too long and there is scale/corrosion built up in the system. Cooling systems work properly when there is efficient heat transfer from the engine to the coolant, and from the coolant to the radiator. Anything which inhibits that transfer will impact temperatures. The pump is there to water moving to improve that transfer function, and the cap is there to increase pressure and improve the heat-carrying capacity. There's ultimately not too much going on. :)
A little more than one year ago, or 5k miles I was replacing leaking heater pipe and at that time I was replacing all coolant from the system. Since that time it was working correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
If your A/C bearing is bad and the belt is slipping under load when it wiggles, you will get reduced cooling and higher temps. Loosen the belt and check the A/C bearing for play. If it has play, that's likely your answer.

I'm in the opposite camp from Jvan on replacing the compressor when the bearing or clutch is bad. The bearing can be replaced along with the clutch. You can avoid the discharge/recharge routine. Many of the compressors run a long time with a bearing/clutch replacement. There's a guy who sells kits and rebuilds compressors for a living and he will tell you to do the bearing/clutch.

I have a new A/C clutch I would sell you cheap. The bearing is a standard item you can purchase that I can direct you to. You'll need a press or someone with a press to change the bearing as it's pressed into the pulley. Probably $75-$90 in parts that way.
Thanks Bob,
If I understand correctly in order to press the bearing into the pulley I will have to remove compressor form the car. Am I correct? And that means discharging disconnecting, connecting recharging? Or I am wrong?
 

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"By the way I was recharging other car not Saab, but I guess the process is the same."

I believe on Saabs its done by weight, not pressure. The refrigerant sucked out is weighed, ideally the leak(s) repaired, and 825 grams (or something similar) is put in.
 

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Weight is really the only correct way to charge R134a, but that isn't really feasible for a DIYer. Pressure is an ok but not ideal substitute... You'll get close but it will more than likely be too much or too little.
 
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