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Discussion Starter #1
My previous owner had subwoofers installed in the car and left all the wiring in there. He was getting the signal from the rear speakers on the deck, 3.5s i believe. I asked him if he installed a converter to change the wires from speaker wire to RCAs, and he said he wasn't sure because his friend installed it.

I wired my subs up to his setup, and when the volume is turned up, the speakers do some wierd thing that i have never seen before. They vibrate through their whole travel, at a rapid pace, and get extremely distorted. Nothing with the song. They sound ok at low volume. This happens when a large bass hit comes.

I am guessing this is because the signal off of the rear speakers only has high and mid signal going to it, and no low. Is this correct?

I am running a sony explode 380W amp, and 2 sony explode 12s. The amp has a LPF if that makes a difference.

2nd Question:
I am going to put in 6X9s in the rear deck, and is the only way to properly wire them in is receiving the signal from the front amp? Do i have to install an amp?

3rd question:
What is that thing in between the rear speakers on the deck? Almost looks like an amp.

4th question:
My subs turn on with a loud pop from the amp receiving the signal. Any way to eliminate it? Its like it gets a little surge of power from the receiver when it turns on.
 

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robhurlburt said:
My previous owner had subwoofers installed in the car and left all the wiring in there. He was getting the signal from the rear speakers on the deck, 3.5s i believe. I asked him if he installed a converter to change the wires from speaker wire to RCAs, and he said he wasn't sure because his friend installed it.

I wired my subs up to his setup, and when the volume is turned up, the speakers do some wierd thing that i have never seen before. They vibrate through their whole travel, at a rapid pace, and get extremely distorted. Nothing with the song. They sound ok at low volume. This happens when a large bass hit comes.

I am guessing this is because the signal off of the rear speakers only has high and mid signal going to it, and no low. Is this correct?

I am running a sony explode 380W amp, and 2 sony explode 12s. The amp has a LPF if that makes a difference.

2nd Question:
I am going to put in 6X9s in the rear deck, and is the only way to properly wire them in is receiving the signal from the front amp? Do i have to install an amp?

3rd question:
What is that thing in between the rear speakers on the deck? Almost looks like an amp.

4th question:
My subs turn on with a loud pop from the amp receiving the signal. Any way to eliminate it? Its like it gets a little surge of power from the receiver when it turns on.
1. yep.
2. yep. yep.
3. onstar
4. check your ground, RTO, could also be because you don't have a LOC, etc...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Diggs said:
4. check your ground, RTO, could also be because you don't have a LOC, etc...
RTO?
LOC?
What do those mean?

Thanks for the info, i'll wire the signal off of the front speakers
 

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robhurlburt said:
RTO?
LOC?
What do those mean?

Thanks for the info, i'll wire the signal off of the front speakers
RTO - Remote Turn On - signal applied to turn the amp on.
LOC - Line Out Converter - device to convert speaker level signal to low level signal with RCA connections( phono plugs that go into the amp)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When you say check the ground, what are you saying? Make sure it is properly grounded to the car?

Same with RTO, what exactly can i check. The amp turns on when the car turns on, i thought thats all it does.

If he didn't use a converter, how did he get the wires from the rear speakers to be RCA plugs? Can you splice in RCA wires from a speaker signal? If I have to check the converter, what am i looking for to stop the initial sound bump when i turn on the car?
 

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I have an Alpine amp and it has the RCA's for a pre-map/LOC connection. But, it has another connection where I can just tap into the speaker wires and run it to the amp. It eliminates the need for an LOC.

Maybe thats what he had.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
yeah mine has that. It can run either speaker wires into it or RCAs.

But he has 2 wires coming off the speaker, going under the rear seat, and coming out as RCA connectors that i connected into my amp. I am going to pull the seat out tonight to see what is going on.
 

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robhurlburt said:
But he has 2 wires coming off the speaker, going under the rear seat, and coming out as RCA connectors that i connected into my amp. I am going to pull the seat out tonight to see what is going on.
Whatever signal is ending up in those RCA's is probably too high a voltage for the low level inputs on your amp. That is why it sounds OK at low volume but not at high volume.

Those rear 4" speakers are not really a good source signal for anything. They have inherently high distortion because of the relative low signal amplitude.

In the 7 speaker system use the doors for bass (AMP1) and the front 3" speakers as a source for mids and highs. Yes, that means running more wire and taking more things apart than just using signal already there in the trunk. Thems the breaks!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
robhurlburt said:
When you say check the ground, what are you saying? Make sure it is properly grounded to the car?

Same with RTO, what exactly can i check. The amp turns on when the car turns on, i thought thats all it does.
any answers to those questions?

If I am weary of his LOC, this is what I would need, right? This way i can run 2 amps off the same converter...
http://cgi.ebay.com/PERIPHERAL-SVEN4-SVEN-4-CHANNEL-LINE-OUT-CONVERTER-NORE_W0QQitemZ290180701552QQihZ019QQcategoryZ50552QQtcZphotoQQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
 

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robhurlburt said:
bump up top, still wondering what to look for to stop the intial pop of the stereo on start up
As somebody has already said, RTO and LOC are the places to look. I initially took had a speaker level feed into my amp, this caused the amp to turn on whenever the speakers got a feed, but resulted in the loud pop. Then I used LOCs and took an RTO from the power to the arial amplifier so that the amp would turn on when the radio was powered, again pops. You need to find a source that is on switched on when the ignition is switched fully on, this gives a moment for the stereo system to power before your amp and will stop the pop. I found an unused fuse space in the fusebox in the rear of the car, can't remember the fuse number or what it fed, but some testing with a multimeter will find it, or someelse here, probably CTRLZ, will know which optional item not often fitted to the is only powered with ignition on.
Also, ensure to use high quality LOCs, I used Directed Audio ones, http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/3794.html and didn't have any problem, tried a cheaper one and the signal was poor to say the least.Steve.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
stevedol said:
You need to find a source that is on switched on when the ignition is switched fully on, this gives a moment for the stereo system to power before your amp and will stop the pop. I found an unused fuse space in the fusebox in the rear of the car, can't remember the fuse number or what it fed, but some testing with a multimeter will find it, or someelse here, probably CTRLZ, will know which optional item not often fitted to the is only powered with ignition on.
http://members.iinet.net.au/~mmo/Docs/saba_pdf.pdf

Is that the fuse you used?

Every other install I have used the the power antenna cable off the back of an aftermarket HU for the RTO, which turns on immediately with the radio. Never once have I had a pop. I have never installed a system with a stock HU, plus I didn't run the wires for this system so I am just going by what the previous owner did.

I will trying running the RTO off the same fuse saba did, I will run the converter off the front speakers, like saba did, and if I am still seeing issues I will try a quality LOC.

Now I just need to wait for my tools to come in the mail...
 

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The position in Saba's instructions for the RTO looks somewhat familar, but mine had no fuse in place, so i just pushed a connector onto the live side of the connections.
there appears to be some sort of residual current passed through many components of these cars during some kind of checks (possibly bulb checks/ security checks/ component checks/etc) this seems to pass through the stereo system and means that the aftermarket I found that the amp was staying on for a good 5 minutes after the car was switched off and the stereo was off.
If the signal used does indeed come from the rear deck 4" then there will be no significant bass signal to amplify regardless of how you wire it up. The 7 speaker factory system has all its bass sent to the 6.5" door speakers, so the feed needs to come from these. If the car is fitted with Saab 13 speaker system, 6x9s in the rear deck are dedicated to sub-bass frequencies, which are best suited for feeding, via decent LOCs, to the aftermarket amp.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
stevedol said:
The position in Saba's instructions for the RTO looks somewhat familar, but mine had no fuse in place, so i just pushed a connector onto the live side of the connections.
Would it be possible for you to look where you wired yours to for me? And to check it, did you hook up a multimeter and have someone turn the key to the on to see if it gets a 12V reading? If so, how do you know when the actual stereo turns on, and not just the engine check?

stevedol said:
If the signal used does indeed come from the rear deck 4" then there will be no significant bass signal to amplify regardless of how you wire it up.
It is definatly from the rear deck, i can see the wires, and he told me the signal is coming from it. I'll re-wire it to the front speakers so i am receiving the proper signal.
 

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robhurlburt said:
Would it be possible for you to look where you wired yours to for me? .
Sorry took a while to reply, I no longer have the '03 93 so had to route through some of my old posts to find the fuse number. I used fuse number 14, which was ignition used and an unused space in my car, but in TuomoA vbmenu_register("postmenu_1034449", true); s car (who is in Finland) fuse 14 was a permenant source, he used fuse 17, see Problems with the external amp.
robhurlburt said:
And to check it, did you hook up a multimeter and have someone turn the key to the on to see if it gets a 12V reading? If so, how do you know when the actual stereo turns on, and not just the engine check?
To find a switched source, I used a multimeter on the spare spaces in the fuse panel in the back of the car. First, I checked them with the engine off and noted whether there was any voltage or not, then checked them again with the engine running. I found fuse 14 to have no voltage when the engine was off, but 12v present with the engine on, therefore ignition switched 12v source. I found that it was only switched on when the key was turned fully and the engine running, if the key was in any other position or taken out, it was switched off, so the amp only powers up when the engine is running. Hope this helps.
Steve.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
stevedol said:
I found fuse 14 to have no voltage when the engine was off, but 12v present with the engine on, therefore ignition switched 12v source. I found that it was only switched on when the key was turned fully and the engine running, if the key was in any other position or taken out, it was switched off, so the amp only powers up when the engine is running. Hope this helps.
Steve.
So your saying the trick to get rid of the popping is to use a switched source that is ONLY on when the engine is RUNNING. I have never heard of that before, I have always used a source that was on when the key was in the on position, car running or not. Heck, i didn't even know that there were 12V power sources that worked like that, Thanks for the info!
 

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robhurlburt said:
So your saying the trick to get rid of the popping is to use a switched source that is ONLY on when the engine is RUNNING. I have never heard of that before, I have always used a source that was on when the key was in the on position, car running or not. Heck, i didn't even know that there were 12V power sources that worked like that, Thanks for the info!
Not saying this is right, or works for everybody, but it is what I found worked for me.
Steve.
 
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