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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
engine fired up but then dies,with a second, and will not start again, put fuel direct in inlet manifold starts but dies when fuel runs out, so pressumed pump failure, changed pump ..still same result no start, so changed relay(what a pain) still no start(except with manifold supply). this happened yesterday, but did start so went to work, but then no start when I came to go home.(old starter not working properly but turned) so took a new battery to work, and no start, and then jumpered it as well off wife's , and would'nt start,(but did with fuel direct into manifold) then suddenly nect turn it started, so home I go, no probs what so ever.
I had had starter problems so put replacement one in now turns over properly each time I try to start, , started first turn, but dies again after a second, only thing I have'nt replaced checked is fuel pressure, so wondered if fuel filter prob, but then why should it run 15 miles without any problem (back home), but then next time I go to start I have no run again GRRRR:evil:
 

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Don't think filter is your problem Alwyne. It may limit power, but rarely causes no start. Next time it doesn't start, crack open the banjo connection at the end of the fuel rail by about half a turn. Fuel should spurt out. If it doesn't there's no fuel pressure and the pump is probably not running. Low fuel pressure again rarely causes no start, only no pressure. I'm leaning toward CPS maybe, which will affect pump operation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Paul,
Yes I agree with fuel filter, but was just something I had'nt been able to omit as no spare handy:lol:
CPS crossed my mind, but if the car fires with fuel inputed at manifold, that means spark supply is there( maybe temporary?? cps fail after fire up) as obviously runs out of 'input' supply quickly as did'nt want to flood) so that should instigate to start the pump, as if no CPS signal = no pump= and no fire up at all.
I have had CPS problem on an 'F' reg I had(twice,fail),many years ago, and CEL had come on, but the two instances(type of fail) were completely different, and this is different again lol, so will add this one to my list if that's the prob. so Monday is the first day I have chance to remove pulley etc and have a look, and I have a 'spare' from a 58k car so that will go in anyway, and see if that changes anything, and being as I have a squeeking belt, on start up, alternator pair=1 slack(or is it harmonic balancer failing= have a spare:lol:??or both) I will be sorting it all out :D;ol;
thanks for thoughts
 

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I have been told it may be a NTC sensor issue if it has totally failed. May want to check the resistance. I am supposed to be checking it out on my 89 NA that is exhibiting the same symptoms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
went to sort out CPS this morning, but thought I would see if it started and off she started, but a little bit of a struggle(like over chocked/misfire)every time I put my foot on accelerator. so thought as Paul suggested CPS got all belts of etc ready, got my cut down socket from previous car change, but can't get the socket/wrench on, pulley bolthead as this car had A/C so pulley is an extra 15?mm closer to the bulkhead.:evil:
total width of cut down socket and wrench is 60mm, when together, I can probably lose another 5mm off the socket but then will not have much of a socket to grip the bolthead, any ideas please ,,eh how you have sorted it, or is it an front/side engine mount undo to raise and twist engine for access
I do have the option of retro fitting a spare turbo dizzy which would eliminate(hopefully my problem lol) but would rather fix it properly, but if too much hastle it might be the easifix even if not as good as CPS
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Geoff thanks for that, ..in the meantime since earlier post, I compared it with the non a/c engine in garage and noticed the three holes =bolts on mine, but struggling to get a socket on them too and undo them,as lack of wrench movement, have also ploughed ahead and cut 5+mm of already reduced socket, and still can't get it on,but just had lunch so will go and give it another try.
WHY is it if and engine out job, the replacement is a 10 min job , but in the car ages and awkward grrr:evil: you have too:lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
got socket on, but just no movement as P/S pipes are in the way, and wrench is'nt really long enough to get any leverage anyway, so turbo dizzy looks likely, as spent 2-3 hrs getting nowhere except P****d off:x, and whan I had put belts back on it refused to start again:evil:
 

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Geoff thanks for that, ..in the meantime since earlier post, I compared it with the non a/c engine in garage and noticed the three holes =bolts on mine, but struggling to get a socket on them too and undo them,as lack of wrench movement, have also ploughed ahead and cut 5+mm of already reduced socket, and still can't get it on,but just had lunch so will go and give it another try.
WHY is it if and engine out job, the replacement is a 10 min job , but in the car ages and awkward grrr:evil: you have too:lol:
Ah, two depths of sockets- 30mm sizes are 5mm or more deeper than the 27mm. With the later bolts, there is also a spacer behind the bolt. 27mm bolt head is much shallower than the 30mm.
 

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You have to un bolt the AC pulley from the damper 1st, then it is just like a non ac car. (3 allen head bolts IIRC)
Should be two 6mm Allens and a 12-13mm hex. In 88 and later cars you merely have to loosen the bolt to remove the compressor. Earlier ones you may have to partially remove the alternator due to it merely being a hole in the bracket rather than the slot in later years. MMOE brought up the point that if you have the capability, updating the bracket makes good sense.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
this is a 27=1" 1/16th, but never had a prob on the 1988 yr one and did it from above no chance of that with a 1992 must have altered the bulkead sheild a bit.
never mind off to work now, have a go tomorrow
 

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I have a 92 n/a and have removed pulley twice from above. As others have stated the key is to remove the a/c pulley. It's tedious because bolts are recessed. I used a 10mm angled box wrench to get bolts off. When I re-installed a/c pulley I got longer bolts and threaded a nut on as a spacer so that bolts heads won't be recessed and are easier to access. Once the a/c pulley was out of the way I had no problem getting a cut down socket and breaker bar( with pipe for added length) on from the top.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
will give the spanner job a go as I only could get about "2 of movement with the ratchet (underneath) no chance at all from top...but it was'nt enough to get a 'click' so got nowhere,
I have previously done a 900 that failed twice and from above, no problem, so knew what I had to do but with that A/C wheel its a PIA, but at least it wont have to go back on as the A/c has been taken off/out:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So what happens if you add power to the top of the fuel pump fuse and try to start it?
never got that far, changed the CPS about 1 1/4hr today and all seems well(except battery was nearl;y flat thorugh trying to start lol.

GregK, thanks for suggestion of cranked spanner, as I did not think I would be able to reach with one(depth of recess) hence did'nt try, but got it off in about 20 mins as not a lot of room,:), removed old cps, no metal bits or rubber around, changed it, and fired up(jumped of vert), a quick run round the block and seems ok

thanks Paul for suggestion of CPS as being as the CEL light did'nt come on at all like my previous encounters with failed CPS I overlooked it as such, and thought of everything else failing.
so no cel light does'nt mean it's not CPS :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
well CPS just stopped the car running just like the other 2 did, but one used to light up the CEL light, and stumble(like misfire...which it was lol) for a split second till CPS eventually failed about 3 months after and light was on when complete fail, and the scecond time it just failed and CEL light came on at same time and I knew it was same problem, but this time no inclination on start up /running etc, so just wonder if bulb has failed, or wether the ecu(different from 1989 car) does'nt activate it for that, only amm or O2 sensor??
 

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The CEL will only give an indication of no ignition signal. The CPS can give a few signals upon cranking and then fail completely after a few cranks, or 5 or 10 seconds or minutes or whatever. This is enough to tell the ECU it's working and possibly sometimes enough to tell the fuel pump to run. If in doubt check for ignition signal at pin 1 on the ECU when cranking. The CEL should illuminate for a second or two upon turning ignition on. This is enough to verify the bulb is working.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
not running fine today went to use it to go to work and same problem started up lasted about a second, and then stopped and did'nt want to know again, so will be checking starting with fuse jump as suggested by Ludichriss over wk end and see what happens if anything .....GGGRRRRR
 
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