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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2007 9-3 with the B207R 2.0T. Sometimes when it’s Sitting and I try to start it up, let’s say the following morning or after a 6 hour work day it starts up but then sputters and dies. One time it happened 3 times in a row before it runs. But after it starts up it runs perfectly fine. No CEL or anything. I’ve read about the vacuum pump gasket being bad and it leaks fuel pressure so I try that and I thought it worked for about 5 days but then it happened again.
 

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I have a 2007 9-3 with the B207R 2.0T. Sometimes when it’s Sitting and I try to start it up, let’s say the following morning or after a 6 hour work day it starts up but then sputters and dies. One time it happened 3 times in a row before it runs. But after it starts up it runs perfectly fine. No CEL or anything. I’ve read about the vacuum pump gasket being bad and it leaks fuel pressure so I try that and I thought it worked for about 5 days but then it happened again.
Probably bad intake valves, unfortunately.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Probably bad intake valves, unfortunately.

Oh I’m most certainly I’m plagued with that. The 07s were. How would I get that fixed? Get new clever and machine my head or jsut get a new head?
 

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Oh I’m most certainly I’m plagued with that. The 07s were. How would I get that fixed? Get new clever and machine my head or jsut get a new head?
You don't need a new head - just new intake valves
 

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That’s be something I can do myself I’m guessing?
Yes but labor intensive - read the thread I linked to, lots of stories of DIY repairs. Also search the forum for more DIYs
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes but labor intensive - read the thread I linked to, lots of stories of DIY repairs. Also search the forum for more DIYs
Thank you very much sir. Is there a kit that would come with all the gaskets and valves or anything along the sorts? You’ve been a big help
 

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Thank you very much sir. Is there a kit that would come with all the gaskets and valves or anything along the sorts? You’ve been a big help
I haven't seen one, but eSAABparts.com should have everything you need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I haven't seen one, but eSAABparts.com should have everything you need.
I work at an autozone and they actually have a kit that comes with all the gaskets and grommets and valve seats needed to replace the head. Valve cover gasket the gasket for the spark plug holes and everything
 

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It’s a fairly big job complicated by the need to correctly time the cams requiring a special tool. You should thoroughly read up on this before jumping in.
 

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Check cold compression before u assume .. i managed to fix many cars with the same symptoms just by software .
 

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Check cold compression before u assume .. i managed to fix many cars with the same symptoms just by software .
Yep - definitely do this!
 

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As Hus_sho says, first do an engine cold compression test. I see you’ve also posted in the 9-3 intake valve sticky but my understanding is this issue first presents itself in cold ambient temps (25F or lower). The symptom is difficulty in starting and rough running until the engine reaches operating temperature. Luckily, my ‘08 and ‘09 9-3s never had this problem and they each now have 150K+ miles.

Don’t jump to the worst conclusion - at least not yet. Cylinder head removal, if you aren’t the labor source, and head machining, if required, can get really expensive - really quickly. And correct cam timing is essential. With all due respect it’s beyond the scope and toolbox of most.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
As Hus_sho says, first do an engine cold compression test. I see you’ve also posted in the 9-3 intake valve sticky but my understanding is this issue first presents itself in cold ambient temps (25F or lower). The symptom is difficulty in starting and rough running until the engine reaches operating temperature. Luckily, my ‘08 and ‘09 9-3s never had this problem and they each now have 150K+ miles.

Don’t jump to the worst conclusion - at least not yet. Cylinder head removal, if you aren’t the labor source, and head machining, if required, can get really expensive - really quickly. And correct cam timing is essential. With all due respect it’s beyond the scope and toolbox of most.
I was hoping to be able to do it myself as I’m looking to go to school for automotive and I’ve worked on vehicles before. But this would be my first head removal of a vehicle if this age. I’ve called my local machine shop and got a price on that and I’ve sliced up I think everything id need. But I was worried about timing. I’m not too sure. I was going to mark all the gears and chain in one spot. There’s a notch on the crankshaft used in the process. Today I’m going to do hot and cold compression tests to be sure but it cranks over and it will stall out right after almost 4 times then starts up but still almost stalls out. Although today it started up first try but the issue is getting worse
 

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if this is ur first b207 head removal, get the timing tool , markings wont do it, at least not the way u r planning to do it
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
if this is ur first b207 head removal, get the timing tool , markings wont do it, at least not the way u r planning to do it
I was also thinking about putting a new timing set on it as well. So yeah that wouldn’t work. I’m Going to do compression tests on it as well todY
 

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I have a 2007 9-3 with the B207R 2.0T. Sometimes when it’s Sitting and I try to start it up, let’s say the following morning or after a 6 hour work day it starts up but then sputters and dies. One time it happened 3 times in a row before it runs. But after it starts up it runs perfectly fine. No CEL or anything. I’ve read about the vacuum pump gasket being bad and it leaks fuel pressure so I try that and I thought it worked for about 5 days but then it happened again.
I had a car same model, it appeared to be the infamous inteake valve problem, it was not, the problem was a bad fuel regulator at end of rail, disconnect the vaccum hoe that goes to the regulator, if there is gas in it, thats the problem. What happens is that the membrane of the regulator is gone, when the car is parked all the pressure goes directly to thru the vaccum line into the manifold, the car will not start under this condition, it takes minutes and valuable battery to start, problem solved with new fuel regulator...hope it helps.
 
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